Archive through April 25, 2007

[aaytay]

Stevenson-
I'm here... That tractor Kraig posted is mine. Thanks for the positive comments, but it really isn't as nice as the pictures make it look. Either way, it was a fun project, and that's what counts...Right?

Feel free to email me. I'd love to help.

That said, you're going to be on your own making a gas-tank bracket just because I don't have the time right now, but I'll be happy to describe what worked for me so you can make one of your own.

Ken-
Not babying the green stuff, just trying to figure out how to fit 10lbs of $@#!% into a 5lb Toyota!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Byron, does this look like the deck and carriage assembly that you have? (I should mention that we sometimes call the carriage a "mower deck subframe")

 

[snorris]

Looks like somebody has #515 here:

http://www.ihregistry.com/cd1/originals/index0002.html

 

[glee]

Tuesday Apr24th @ 6:56 Terry Busch said it makes sense to swap the rear plate bolts to studs to make removing the tiller easier. Questions are:

What size studs would I buy? (Tractor Supply sell 'em)

Never installed a stud, but have installed many bolts. What's the difference in installing?

Remember there's no such thing as a dumb question.

 

[digger]

Stevenson,
Huh?

 

[glee]

I had a flat on a 1650. I took the wheel off and attempted to put on another wheel from another ih cub cadet (I think a 1250) but the hole size was different and it would not fit. Is it possible to drill out the hole and make it bigger, or would that compropmise the strength of the wheel? Also I was wondering how others felt about using inner tubes.

 

[digger]

Gary L.
I use 3/8 x 1 3/8" studs, You can use shorter one's if you need to.
Looks like Bryan used about that same length too.

 

[snorris]

Charlie, I was referring to the #515 number shown on the bottom left of that page of pics. Its older than any other original cadet I have seen pictured.

 

[digger]

So I guess you would get real excited to see this one.

Or maybe Serial# 409?

 

[tgallagher]

Kentucky,

No, those blades are nice and thick just like the originals except they are square right out to the end.

Best of all, they were only $14.00 for all 3 and they are MADE IN USA!

 

[mgonitzke]

Gary L.-

If you're talking about front wheels, then no. You can't drill out a bearing to make it larger. I bet your 1650 is a later one with 1" front spindles and the 1250 the other wheel came from was an earlier one with the 3/4" spindles. Tubes are fine.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here's #409:

How about #522:

 

[kweaver]

Gary - Since nobody that has done it has responded yet ... Remove the bolts one at a time and put some thread sealer on a stud then screw it into the housing. You might need to double nut it to screw them in. Then take the nuts off. A flat washer then a Ny-lock nut tightened up will do it. Those you leave on, if you ever install a rear gear box you put it on over the studs/Ny-locks and add a nut to bolt it on.

Don't get crazy and screw the stud in so far that you might bust through the hole inside the casting.

Timothy - Sounds good to me

 

[digger]

Kentuck,
And what's wrong with Vice-Grips?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Using the studs with the tiller I believe makes the belt fit a bit tighter too. Bryan, Terry??????

 

[kweaver]

Charlie - There's nothing wrong with Vice-Grips ... every cobbler has a pair

BUT! Cresent's copy isn't worth a crap! Wont open , wont grip

Kraig - I believe Bryan posted that he had to go to a one inch longer belt ... I think, that was back in 2000 or there-a-bouts. Where's he lurking at anyway ?????

 

[kweaver]

Charlie
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[digger]

Kraig & Ken,
I use studs and have no problems.

Ken,
Right aobut this time, Bryan is ridin the train back home.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Charlie, did you use the thin nylock nuts or standard thickness nuts?

 

[digger]

Kraig,
Standard nuts.