Myron,
That's cause your from Texas.
That's cause your from Texas.
-
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Archive through April 25, 2007
- Thread starter digger
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Well, <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> wasn't all that consistant with terminology.
Here is an actual "clevis" from a parts diagram:
Here's another one, but this time <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> called it a "yoke".
Here is an actual "clevis" from a parts diagram:
Here's another one, but this time <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> called it a "yoke".
Brian B,
Regarding the missing pin and gusset on your clutch pin plate, I suspect that the weld around the gusset fractured due to a fatigue crack. Each time the clutch is engaged, load is applied to the pins and gusset by the engine torque. The load results in stresses in the gusset weld joint. The repeated loading will cause a crack that will over time (like 35+ years) grow microscopically bigger and bigger until an it fractures. Hence, the pin and gusset broke free without deforming your pin plate.
As a side note, that's a good reason for everybody to keep the semicircle cover shield in place on your classic cubbies (2/3's through 6/7's) especially those with manual transmissions as I sure would hate to see anyone get hit by a flying pin and gusset coming out of the clutch.
Regarding the missing pin and gusset on your clutch pin plate, I suspect that the weld around the gusset fractured due to a fatigue crack. Each time the clutch is engaged, load is applied to the pins and gusset by the engine torque. The load results in stresses in the gusset weld joint. The repeated loading will cause a crack that will over time (like 35+ years) grow microscopically bigger and bigger until an it fractures. Hence, the pin and gusset broke free without deforming your pin plate.
As a side note, that's a good reason for everybody to keep the semicircle cover shield in place on your classic cubbies (2/3's through 6/7's) especially those with manual transmissions as I sure would hate to see anyone get hit by a flying pin and gusset coming out of the clutch.
tgallagher
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2007
- Messages
- 79
- displayname
- Timothy S. Gallagher
Ok,
I put those oregon blades on the 38" deck this AM. There was only 1 spot on my lawn that was tall enough to really see how it was goig to cut.
It cut it well only a little to low. It was level left to right on a solid surface. I adjusted the height higher with the big knob beside your right leg.
Should the deck "hang" so the wooden nose roller only touches while going over an uneven spot or should that roller be in contact with the ground all the time?
I put those oregon blades on the 38" deck this AM. There was only 1 spot on my lawn that was tall enough to really see how it was goig to cut.
It cut it well only a little to low. It was level left to right on a solid surface. I adjusted the height higher with the big knob beside your right leg.
Should the deck "hang" so the wooden nose roller only touches while going over an uneven spot or should that roller be in contact with the ground all the time?
Timothy, that depends on how long or short you like to cut your grass. With my 42" decks the roller and gauge wheels are usually on the ground. Here's what the manual says about it.
Charlie, Myron
thanks for responding so quickly. I was referring to the eye bolts - when I move the lever forward, a pin (on both sides) does drop down. I hooked these to the back of the mower attachment. I do not see any other pins that drop down when the lever is moved forward. Nor, do I see any clevis assembly that would or could be used. I wonder if I am missing a piece or two of the bracket that is used to attach to the mower deck/frame? If that is possible, any ideas where I can locate such an animal?
thx
Byron
thanks for responding so quickly. I was referring to the eye bolts - when I move the lever forward, a pin (on both sides) does drop down. I hooked these to the back of the mower attachment. I do not see any other pins that drop down when the lever is moved forward. Nor, do I see any clevis assembly that would or could be used. I wonder if I am missing a piece or two of the bracket that is used to attach to the mower deck/frame? If that is possible, any ideas where I can locate such an animal?
thx
Byron
snorris
Active member
I posted this in the sandbox, but was asked to repost it here, so here it is:
I recently got an old Noma 18hp riding mower to cut my yard with, but it needed a starter. While looking online for a good one, I thought about hotrod parts for it just for fun... So I stumbled onto the tractor pulling stuff ! It looked like a lot of fun, and I saw that a lot of the racers were using cub cadets. A friend of mine has a small engine repair shop and he had a pair of old cub cadets sitting in the back of his farm, so I asked him about them. I had planned to make a pulling tractor and didn't know hardly anything about cub cadets, so I just bugged him about one of them, with no particular preference, not knowing much about it other than it was really old. He said he would trade it to me for a pair of my old black powder cowboy pistols, which I didn't think was fair, but I really wanted to try the tractor stuff, so I said ok. We drug the tractor out using another tractor, since it was sunk into the mud so much we couldn't move it. All four tires were flat, but he swore the engine had run a year ago. The engine on it is a kohler 10hp, that after a lot of fiddling and cleaning out the carb, fuel line, and gas tank, did indeed start up. I drove it around a bit, and tried the mower deck, which seems to work fine. That night I started searching the net for cub cadet info and found this site, and others about them! I really learned a lot in a couple days! Sadly I think I overpaid for this tractor (guns cost me $700), but I'm sure it will be a fun project and I want to restore it as best I can. Its a original cub cadet, number 16880. Its got the square mower deck with the tooth belt, no fenders or lights, and a damaged hood. The 10hp engine is physically almost too big to fit, so whoever put it in there cut chunks out of the hood to clear the exhaust outlet on one side, and carb on the other side. The gas tank is attached to the fan housing, but its obviously the wrong tank, as it doesn't fit and has some metal pieces rigged to support it. But it does run, and drives fine, tho the steering wheel is very loose, with about half a turn of play in it. The mower deck works perfectly, but the two small mule pulleys at the front have bad bearings, so they squeel constantly, I need to find replacements for them. So I got the cadet thinking of tractor pulling, but after I agreed to trade for it, I realized its got a small belt driving the transmission, and probably is no good for pulling like that... but by that time I thought it was such a neat tractor, I decided to keep it and fix it up. I know now that it should have a 7hp kohler, but I kinda like having a 'big motor' on it. Any of you know a neat and proper looking way to setup some kind of gas tank ? The one on it is really sloppy looking since its rigged and doesn't really fit. As far as damage goes, other than the hood, grill, and mule pulleys, the only part I want to replace is the lower front cover for the frame, I don't know what its called, its the flat plate that is below the front grill. The IH emblem for the grill is missing, as are the correct rear fenders, and lights. The tractor has rear fenders now, but they are home made, and rather ugly. Oh, the other cub cadet my friend has is a 124 with fiberglass dash and very rusty 12hp kohler. I'm not sure if I can get it tho, he said he wanted to keep it. I ended up getting a Oregon Magnum Starter for my Noma and its briggs 18hp twin, so its all fixed, but boy, compared to how the cadet is built, that Noma feels like cheap junk... lol
Anyway, I wanted to say hello to the group, and that I'm looking forward to fixing up my original cadet to be as sharp looking as the others I have seen on the sites about them!
Steve
I recently got an old Noma 18hp riding mower to cut my yard with, but it needed a starter. While looking online for a good one, I thought about hotrod parts for it just for fun... So I stumbled onto the tractor pulling stuff ! It looked like a lot of fun, and I saw that a lot of the racers were using cub cadets. A friend of mine has a small engine repair shop and he had a pair of old cub cadets sitting in the back of his farm, so I asked him about them. I had planned to make a pulling tractor and didn't know hardly anything about cub cadets, so I just bugged him about one of them, with no particular preference, not knowing much about it other than it was really old. He said he would trade it to me for a pair of my old black powder cowboy pistols, which I didn't think was fair, but I really wanted to try the tractor stuff, so I said ok. We drug the tractor out using another tractor, since it was sunk into the mud so much we couldn't move it. All four tires were flat, but he swore the engine had run a year ago. The engine on it is a kohler 10hp, that after a lot of fiddling and cleaning out the carb, fuel line, and gas tank, did indeed start up. I drove it around a bit, and tried the mower deck, which seems to work fine. That night I started searching the net for cub cadet info and found this site, and others about them! I really learned a lot in a couple days! Sadly I think I overpaid for this tractor (guns cost me $700), but I'm sure it will be a fun project and I want to restore it as best I can. Its a original cub cadet, number 16880. Its got the square mower deck with the tooth belt, no fenders or lights, and a damaged hood. The 10hp engine is physically almost too big to fit, so whoever put it in there cut chunks out of the hood to clear the exhaust outlet on one side, and carb on the other side. The gas tank is attached to the fan housing, but its obviously the wrong tank, as it doesn't fit and has some metal pieces rigged to support it. But it does run, and drives fine, tho the steering wheel is very loose, with about half a turn of play in it. The mower deck works perfectly, but the two small mule pulleys at the front have bad bearings, so they squeel constantly, I need to find replacements for them. So I got the cadet thinking of tractor pulling, but after I agreed to trade for it, I realized its got a small belt driving the transmission, and probably is no good for pulling like that... but by that time I thought it was such a neat tractor, I decided to keep it and fix it up. I know now that it should have a 7hp kohler, but I kinda like having a 'big motor' on it. Any of you know a neat and proper looking way to setup some kind of gas tank ? The one on it is really sloppy looking since its rigged and doesn't really fit. As far as damage goes, other than the hood, grill, and mule pulleys, the only part I want to replace is the lower front cover for the frame, I don't know what its called, its the flat plate that is below the front grill. The IH emblem for the grill is missing, as are the correct rear fenders, and lights. The tractor has rear fenders now, but they are home made, and rather ugly. Oh, the other cub cadet my friend has is a 124 with fiberglass dash and very rusty 12hp kohler. I'm not sure if I can get it tho, he said he wanted to keep it. I ended up getting a Oregon Magnum Starter for my Noma and its briggs 18hp twin, so its all fixed, but boy, compared to how the cadet is built, that Noma feels like cheap junk... lol
Anyway, I wanted to say hello to the group, and that I'm looking forward to fixing up my original cadet to be as sharp looking as the others I have seen on the sites about them!
Steve
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2006
- Messages
- 3,290
- displayname
- Home of the Plow Special
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
The 10hp engine is physically almost too big to fit, so whoever put it in there cut chunks out of the hood to clear the exhaust outlet on one side, and carb on the other side. The gas tank is attached to the fan housing, but its obviously the wrong tank, as it doesn't fit and has some metal pieces rigged to support it."<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
....and here I thought there was only ONE Plow Special!
The 10hp engine is physically almost too big to fit, so whoever put it in there cut chunks out of the hood to clear the exhaust outlet on one side, and carb on the other side. The gas tank is attached to the fan housing, but its obviously the wrong tank, as it doesn't fit and has some metal pieces rigged to support it."<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
....and here I thought there was only ONE Plow Special!
Steve, here's a couple of photos of the 10hp that Art Aytay put into his Original. Note the custom fuel tank brackets that he made to lower the height of the fuel tank. Also note that he did use the smaller 7hp fuel tank.
Art also put some spacers (1" square tubing, IIRC) under the pedestal and grill to raise the hood slightly. You can see them in this photo:
Art also put some spacers (1" square tubing, IIRC) under the pedestal and grill to raise the hood slightly. You can see them in this photo:
snorris
Active member
Dang, thats a slick setup! My cadet looks awful next to that one! lol
But I'm 100% sure it will clean up and be just as sweet as that one is.
I was amazed at how many hotrod parts are avaliable for that Kohler engine.. I used to race go-karts when I was younger, and we used briggs or tecumseh engines only. The kohlers were available, but they were so darn heavy none of us would touch them. Now I wish I had given them a try.
But I'm 100% sure it will clean up and be just as sweet as that one is.
I was amazed at how many hotrod parts are avaliable for that Kohler engine.. I used to race go-karts when I was younger, and we used briggs or tecumseh engines only. The kohlers were available, but they were so darn heavy none of us would touch them. Now I wish I had given them a try.
Steve, there's many a tractor that looks awful next to Art's "Plow Special", including ALL of my tractors.......
snorris
Active member
Kraig, would you consider emailing me these and any other pics you have of Arts cadet ? I would like to start collecting pics of restored original cadets for reference. If your willing, my email addy is in my profile.
Byron M,
Sounds like you are missing the undercarriage assembly for attaching the mower deck. Look closely at the picture that Charlie posted yesterday in response to you initial question. The undercarriage attaches to the two arms underneath that move with the lift lever, has an idler arm that slides onto the shaft that supports your footrest and it also runs forward an attaches with a long 1/2" pin to the mule drive. Do you have the mule drive which mounts at the front on the frame under the engine has as two small belt pulleys on it for the mower belt to traverse on from the front engine PTO to the center pulley on your deck? To mount a mower deck on a cubby you need both the mule drive and undercarriage assembly.
Better go check your father-in-law's shed to look for the undercarriage. It will be a yellow awkward looking assembly made of steel. If you can't find it, ask Charlie for permission to put a want ad in the classified section. I'm sure someone will have an extra narrow frame mule drive and undercarriage laying aound to help you out.
Sounds like you are missing the undercarriage assembly for attaching the mower deck. Look closely at the picture that Charlie posted yesterday in response to you initial question. The undercarriage attaches to the two arms underneath that move with the lift lever, has an idler arm that slides onto the shaft that supports your footrest and it also runs forward an attaches with a long 1/2" pin to the mule drive. Do you have the mule drive which mounts at the front on the frame under the engine has as two small belt pulleys on it for the mower belt to traverse on from the front engine PTO to the center pulley on your deck? To mount a mower deck on a cubby you need both the mule drive and undercarriage assembly.
Better go check your father-in-law's shed to look for the undercarriage. It will be a yellow awkward looking assembly made of steel. If you can't find it, ask Charlie for permission to put a want ad in the classified section. I'm sure someone will have an extra narrow frame mule drive and undercarriage laying aound to help you out.
Steve, Art just posted above your first post (see it there, just below my post with the photos?) I'm sure he'd be willing to make some parts for the right price.
I'll see what I can round up to email you.
Byron, the 122 would have used a "bolt on" mower deck carriage and a "pin on" mower deck. (Though it's possible to use the Quick Attach style on the 122 you would just have to bolt it on.) Charlie posted a photo of a Quick Attach mower deck carriage and a Quick Attach deck. Here's a picture of the correct style mower deck carriage assembly and mower deck (your mower deck might be slightly different depending on the width of cut) Also note that you would install the deck carriage assembly first THEN slide the mower deck under and attach it to the carriage. This photo shows the deck attached to the carriage:
