Archive through April 24, 2009
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Dennis:
"The BEST ever looking IHC tractor was the 5X88's and their Look-alike Cub Cadet the 982"..
They might be PRETTY, but real tractors don't hide their engines like girly girl lawnmowers..
<font size="-2"> heh heh heh..</font>
"The BEST ever looking IHC tractor was the 5X88's and their Look-alike Cub Cadet the 982"..
They might be PRETTY, but real tractors don't hide their engines like girly girl lawnmowers..
Charlie, I'm glad to hear that! Ya take a good running 102.. 4-500.00 then go buy a creeper buck and a half maybe two and hydraulics another two bucks. Ad a 3-point thats another hundred. Lights, stack.... And then there is the time involved in installing all of it.... Take it the grave. TMHO
Howard---If you are running an original with the belt doun to the clutch -- check the belt for a tight fit. Also it the drive pulley on the engine worn??? When they are worn the top edges get "sharp" from the wear sometimes or the belt rides really deep in the pulley. The other place to start is the mainspring on the driveshaft. When the spring gets soft the clutch slips. Sponsors are a fair price here and glad to help. It is most likly the springs.
Kendell,
You just had to get THOSE TWO started up again dint ya!
You just had to get THOSE TWO started up again dint ya!
Hey guys, thanks for the info this morning. I ran a new ground wire from the regulator to the battery, and used my 1250 pretty hard all afternoon pushing brush and dragging poles, never died one time. Feels like its old self again. I sure need it running, my leg dont work good enough to get too far and have to walk back to the house. You guys are so knowledgeable and helpful, not to mention funny as heck!!!!! THANKS AGAIN.
Todd H.
I just have to disagree with ya on this one.
There's some that just don't feel right and others that make ya feel good to set on.
Lets see how this goes, LOL
149's are not good setters, great workers if you like loud noises and rattlin tin.
123,147,1450 & 1650's feel good, look good and work well.
102's & 125's are super all around great machines with little to no downsides that I can think of.
That's my story and I'm stickin to it.
I just have to disagree with ya on this one.
There's some that just don't feel right and others that make ya feel good to set on.
Lets see how this goes, LOL
149's are not good setters, great workers if you like loud noises and rattlin tin.
123,147,1450 & 1650's feel good, look good and work well.
102's & 125's are super all around great machines with little to no downsides that I can think of.
That's my story and I'm stickin to it.
ive got an IH Cub Cadet 1200 model Garden Tractor, love it, great runner, all complete and low low hours. Paid 100 dollars for it.
The only problems I can find are the fact no one can tell me what length belt it needs to run the deck (PTO to Deck). The dealer knows absolutely nothing about this mower, no help at all. I had a new belt on it at one point, fit okay, and the tensioner looked like it was in the right position, cut twicce and it shredded it. The mule drive pulleys are fine, the deck spindles are fine, the PTO works great, not hitting anything I could see, just shredded the belt, and it kept wanting to flip it backwards, probably just 100& wrong belt.
Also, the previous owner removed the drivesetup, from the drive on the engine, to the input on the trans. I bought all new parts, everything, and with no pictoral help, put it together and it seemed to work okay but has always vibrated badly. Not su much when you ride the clutch, which has now managed ot destroy the throwout bearing, throwout arm, and the driveshaft is messed up now too.
The only thing I can guess is the driveshaft is supposed to have dimple on the back end ot ride on the bal bearing, but the new diveshaft was too long (dealer said this was normal, trim to length) and I did...
So Im wondering, now Ive got to replace the driveshaft, throwout bearing, spring, all that crap all over again..another probably 230 dollars..I want it to work right this time.
Where can I find the RIGHT parts that will work on this fine machine?
also..last but not least, is it supposed to be a chore to remove and install the 44A mower deck?
The only problems I can find are the fact no one can tell me what length belt it needs to run the deck (PTO to Deck). The dealer knows absolutely nothing about this mower, no help at all. I had a new belt on it at one point, fit okay, and the tensioner looked like it was in the right position, cut twicce and it shredded it. The mule drive pulleys are fine, the deck spindles are fine, the PTO works great, not hitting anything I could see, just shredded the belt, and it kept wanting to flip it backwards, probably just 100& wrong belt.
Also, the previous owner removed the drivesetup, from the drive on the engine, to the input on the trans. I bought all new parts, everything, and with no pictoral help, put it together and it seemed to work okay but has always vibrated badly. Not su much when you ride the clutch, which has now managed ot destroy the throwout bearing, throwout arm, and the driveshaft is messed up now too.
The only thing I can guess is the driveshaft is supposed to have dimple on the back end ot ride on the bal bearing, but the new diveshaft was too long (dealer said this was normal, trim to length) and I did...
So Im wondering, now Ive got to replace the driveshaft, throwout bearing, spring, all that crap all over again..another probably 230 dollars..I want it to work right this time.
Where can I find the RIGHT parts that will work on this fine machine?
also..last but not least, is it supposed to be a chore to remove and install the 44A mower deck?
Tim S.
I know how ya feel on the walking thing.
I fired up one of the gang the other day (127)for the first time after setting all winter up here with temps averaging 22 below almost all winter.
I headed to out across the field and got about 300 yards from the house and it died!
Looked around, couldn't see anything loose or broke, so I hiked back. Fired up the 1450, drug it back and found no spark, found a bad coil. Replaced that, fired it up, took off again.I made it maybe 30 feet, died again, LOL
I stuck my hand under the dash and wiggled the ignition switch and if rolled over, but wouldn't fire.
It got pushed it back this time!
Cleaned up the wire connection, changed the switch out with a new one.
Fired right up, this time i let it set and run for a good 30 minutes before leaving the garage.
Took off, got about 50 feet and ran out of freakin gas!
I worked it pretty hard for a couple hours after all that, I think it felt sorry for me and let me play for a while without having to work on it. LOL
I know how ya feel on the walking thing.
I fired up one of the gang the other day (127)for the first time after setting all winter up here with temps averaging 22 below almost all winter.
I headed to out across the field and got about 300 yards from the house and it died!
Looked around, couldn't see anything loose or broke, so I hiked back. Fired up the 1450, drug it back and found no spark, found a bad coil. Replaced that, fired it up, took off again.I made it maybe 30 feet, died again, LOL
I stuck my hand under the dash and wiggled the ignition switch and if rolled over, but wouldn't fire.
It got pushed it back this time!
Cleaned up the wire connection, changed the switch out with a new one.
Fired right up, this time i let it set and run for a good 30 minutes before leaving the garage.
Took off, got about 50 feet and ran out of freakin gas!
I worked it pretty hard for a couple hours after all that, I think it felt sorry for me and let me play for a while without having to work on it. LOL
klejeune
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- Keith LeJeune
Charlie,
On the box blade. Before you go tweaking the frame or arms, just try a shorter top link. Maybe I'm way off, but I've used my share of cat 3 attachments and if the top link is adjusted out too long the furthest point away from the tractor will hit the ground before the closest. If you shorten the top link it will level the implement when lowering to the ground.
Your top link looks like it's about an inch longer than it should be. Does anyone have the manual for the #40 box blade? Did it come with it's own top link?
On the box blade. Before you go tweaking the frame or arms, just try a shorter top link. Maybe I'm way off, but I've used my share of cat 3 attachments and if the top link is adjusted out too long the furthest point away from the tractor will hit the ground before the closest. If you shorten the top link it will level the implement when lowering to the ground.
Your top link looks like it's about an inch longer than it should be. Does anyone have the manual for the #40 box blade? Did it come with it's own top link?
Keith L.
I'll do the link and tires before I mess with anything else.
I don't think any shims, bending or tweaking will be happening anytime while I own it.
I'll do the link and tires before I mess with anything else.
I don't think any shims, bending or tweaking will be happening anytime while I own it.
rchristensen
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- Richard Christensen
Keith your wrong on the length of the top link changing the angle of the box blade when it hits the ground.
A shorter or longer top link will change the lift or the drop amount of the blade but will not change the angle of it. The angle is set by the point that the arms connect to the tractor.
The only way to level the point where the blade hits the ground is to connect the arms to a lower point, modify the arms, or lower the tractor.
A shorter or longer top link will change the lift or the drop amount of the blade but will not change the angle of it. The angle is set by the point that the arms connect to the tractor.
The only way to level the point where the blade hits the ground is to connect the arms to a lower point, modify the arms, or lower the tractor.
bbrigham
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- Brendan Brigham
Maybe this one will show why I was thinking the way I am. The lower links on the IH box blade only have articulation at 1 end therefor it will not pick square where the Cat 0-3 lower links have articulation at both ends which allow it to pick square.
Not trying to beat a dead horse, this is what I see from a mechanical point. Not tryin to ruffle any feathers
Not trying to beat a dead horse, this is what I see from a mechanical point. Not tryin to ruffle any feathers
Good morning everyone. I have a question about headlight rings on my 100. I have a set that has 4 rings for each headlight. I also have seen them with two rings for each headlight. What is actually correct for a 100? Are the two ring sets the same as the 102/122 series rings? Did someone just use the later rings on a 100? Thank.
rbedell
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lscarduzio
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- Lisa Scarduzio
Can i take the deck to the mower shop and have different sized clevises put into it maybe with a wider hole?
One of the clevise will fit however on the other side the second clevise hits the pivot link and will not fit over it.
One of the clevise will fit however on the other side the second clevise hits the pivot link and will not fit over it.
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Charlie:
Rattlin' tin?? Ouch, you hit home on that one! (The reason the balance gears are still in my engine? Otherwise the hood would shake off when I leave it idling). I've gone through more "fixes" to quiet that rattling hood down than tie rod ends before the heim joint upgrade. OK - talked me into it, I'm gonna go look for a NF, see ya later..
Oh BTW - almost 80 here yesterday, got a bike ride in and lots of Cub seat time in waaaay down here below the 45th parallel.
Rattlin' tin?? Ouch, you hit home on that one! (The reason the balance gears are still in my engine? Otherwise the hood would shake off when I leave it idling). I've gone through more "fixes" to quiet that rattling hood down than tie rod ends before the heim joint upgrade. OK - talked me into it, I'm gonna go look for a NF, see ya later..
Oh BTW - almost 80 here yesterday, got a bike ride in and lots of Cub seat time in waaaay down here below the 45th parallel.
