Archive through April 23, 2008

[lbuttke]

Jerry,
Here is another idea on how to run a stack.

Usein a muffler from a 102, just add the bend to a pice of pipe and weld to muffler.
You will need to fab up a bracket to hold the end of the muffler of coarse.

 

[mgonitzke]

Lonny-

How about putting a hose clamp around the coupler on the flywheel to hold the pin in?

 

[digger]

Lonny,
How bout changing the drive hub, Drive shaft and the pin at the same to solve the problem once and for all.
From past experience, I've found that the drive hub/drive shaft causes most of the problems with flying pins.

 

[lbuttke]

Charlie.

If the groove pins do not work out that will be my next route to go.
Just hopeing not to have to spend the cash on parts that may not be needed.

 

[gcoleman]

Jerry heres how i ran mine, before and after through the hood. MAKE SURE YOU SUPPORT IT WELL!!! if you don't, itll rattle loose, or even crack yer block/break off in yer block, not good either way. JMHO

 

[jzimmerman]

50" Deck spindle question.

I got two new spindles for my deck to replace the outers. The center was done three years ago. One of them installed fine, but the other is very tight.

Any thoughts as to what I did wrong?

Please let me know.

Zimm

 

[jstacey]

Lonny,
Drive a spirol pin into another spirol pin and install. Drive the smaller pin gap 180 degrees off of the bigger pin gap. Then take some baling wire or equivelent. and put through the center and tie ouround the shaft. Use pliars to twist the wire tight. This should help hold the pins in. Or you could buy the correct parts but what fun is that.

 

[jthompson]

Just finished tilling up my garden with the 1450 and the 1A tiller. I have never used my 1450 (or any other hydro cub), as I just bought it last year. I have a 126 that I've mowed with and that's it as far as my experience working with Cubs. Anyway, my assessment:
- The tiller doesn't seem to till as deep as I'd like. My walk behind seems to till deeper. If I loosen the knob (the one that lengthens the chains) any more, the lift will not raise the tiller up off the ground for transport. Seems I'm at about max depth.
- The tiller really seems to lug the engine down. I would have thought that as much TQ as these K series put out that the 14 hp would not struggle as much. I have to add though that the ground is pretty damp so that may have something to do with it. I'll get a better assessment when its really dry.
- The 1450......man I don't know about these hydros. It simply will NOT maintain speed. Yes, I've read the manual and FAQ's. I also did the "neutral" adjustment and still have to pull it down into "reverse" to get it to stop- so much for those ideas. I definitely see now why so many are fans of gear drives. I want to like the hydro as I also have a 1650 (engine is out right now) I'd like to put a loader on one day but man this is a pain. I hate to say this but I used to have a JD 140 and the hydro on that thing was always buttery smooth and I never touched it. I think all these crazy springs and linkages are just too much "banjo" work.

I will say this- It got dark when I was about halfway done. I turned on the lights and tilled for another 30 minutes or so. Those lights are really bright. I had no problem at all working with them. I could have tilled all night, and the tail lights give off just enough light to keep an eye on the tiller.

Anyway, that's my assessment of my first cub ground engaging project. The garden is tilled and tomorrow I'll row it up and plant it.

 

[jcarson]

could someone please tell me ? do i need the balance gears in a k301? it would have orginaly came with them,(its the newer black motor) but i just tore down the engine to do a rebuild job and they arnt there.this engine has been rebuilt before,and i supose they just tossed them,im not gonna do alot with this engine just mow,jared

 

[mjrobilotta]

was mowing in the dark and my headlights wouldnt stay on on my 100. i had to keep pulling the switch out to keep them on. any ideas to fix would be great

 

[mtoney]

Sounds like the switch is worn out and the vibration is causing it to loose contact. Might be time for a new switch. Cheers Mike

 

[mjrobilotta]

thats what i figured which sucks because its practicly never been used. o well ill leave a bunge cord on it for now

 

[lbuttke]

Jared.

I have no problem with the spirol pin staying in place, its just I have sheard 2 of them in the last 4 months.
I dont think you are describing a spirol pin but instead a spring pin and would not last very long even doubled as you described.
Spirol pin

Spring pin

 

[dsauve]

Jim, run a second or third pass, my 1250 and number 2 tiller just scratched the sod off the lawn over the weekend. The second and third passes put me into cutting off tree roots and really fluffing up the soil. All in all the tiller dug in about 8 inches. This was my first time with a Cub and tiller. My dads greenie and hydro tiller dig about the same. Running a plow and disk is the same amount of seat time.

 

[jthompson]

Dean you're probably right. I only made one pass over most of it. I did go back over a few areas and it seemed to do better. After fighting the hydro for so long I was ready to get off. I don't think I could have gone over the entire thing a second time.

 

[dsauve]

Jim, do a little more digging into the hydro linkage, it is finiky but depandable. I have a1259 and a pair of 129's that are steady as can be. the newly aquired 129 had alot of varriation in the speed when I got it. A few new springs and I was back in bussiness. Just be patient and everything will work out. Once you have driven a hydro you wont want to go back to a gear drive.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jim, sounds like you may have a worn trunion slot in your 1450. Have you read FAQ # 14? If not you should, also note the link to additional info at the bottom of that page, then there's another link at the bottom of the next page, and so on for a few pages.

 

[jwentz]

I am having the same problem as Jim, only mine is a 1650. I have welded up the worn trunion and re-adjusted it for neutral several times. All is well until I take it out for a spin and then I have to put it about 1/2 way into reverse to stop it and keep it from creeping forward.

Could it be as simple as the springs being worn? Or is it in the pin and slot from the linkage?

 

[pfunk]

Kraig, I'll post some more pictures of the loader after I get it finished and painted.

I've been keeping up on the posting; just haven't taken the time to reply to anything. I'm still here.

 

[aaytay]

Jim-
Have you adjusted the deck-height adjustment cam to allow "full drop" of the lift system? I'll admit that I tilled about half the garden my first time out without adjusting that cam. I couldn't figure out why the tiller was only going about 2" in the ground, then I looked down and saw that cam limiting the drop of the lift mechanism.

I agree with Dean. Hit it again with the tiller and report back. It will probably get things deeper, and plus it's more seat time!

As far as the tractor itself, if you're tilling virgin soil, then yes, depending on your soil type you could be in for a bucking bronco ride as the tiller will try to "drive" the tractor forward and you'll need to hold it back with the hydro. The second pass won't be nearly as bad.

Lonnie-
I'm no narrow-frame hydro expert, but if you're using a SPIROL pin at the driveshat/engine connection, that may be your problem as I think it's supposed to be a solid pin.