John, could be wear in the linkages. A little bit of wear over several link ends adds up.
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Archive through April 23, 2008
- Thread starter lbuttke
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Lonnie
I have one with a spirol pin and another with a spring pin doubled up. Never had a problem with either. I even have a 129 with the spirol pin hanging half way out and rusted in place and don't have a problem. Although I keep waiting for it to break. Do you have a lot of slop in the driveline? It might be time to tighten things up. Might even be a bent input shaft causing vibration.
I have one with a spirol pin and another with a spring pin doubled up. Never had a problem with either. I even have a 129 with the spirol pin hanging half way out and rusted in place and don't have a problem. Although I keep waiting for it to break. Do you have a lot of slop in the driveline? It might be time to tighten things up. Might even be a bent input shaft causing vibration.
"John, could be wear in the linkages. A little bit of wear over several link ends adds up."
There is a little (very little)play at each link, but nothing outlandish. Heck the new tie rod ends I bought for the steering had more play than the old worn out ones!
The one place that seems to have the most play is in that slot and pin area, but I don't see an easy fix, short of buying all new parts in there. $$
There is a little (very little)play at each link, but nothing outlandish. Heck the new tie rod ends I bought for the steering had more play than the old worn out ones!
The one place that seems to have the most play is in that slot and pin area, but I don't see an easy fix, short of buying all new parts in there. $$
I've been tilling with my 1450 and I prefer a hydro for tilling. I have done a few where the dirt was so hard that I have had to just barely creep along and even stop and then roll ahead a little and stop again. If I was using a gear drive I'd be constantly hitting the clutch on that hard packed clay soil. I always go over a garden twice, but on a new garden it usually requires two passes to get a full 7-8 inches of fluffy soil. I've never had a complaint and I've never done a garden and not been asked back for next year.
Art.
The manual calls for a 1/4" by 1" 1/2" solid dowel pin, part # IH-19837-R1
I have ordered 3 of them from my cub cadet dealerand all 3 of them are now laying out in my yard never to be seen again.
So I tought I would try useing a 1/4" - 1" 1/2" spirol pin for a tighter fit.
When the spirol pin shears the part in the driveshaft is still there and needed to be reomved each time.
But being that I have sheared 2 of them in the past 4 month and I have had no luck useing the pin called for I decided to try another pin.
The grooved pin is a soild pin with 3 groves pressed into it to give it a tight fit in a 1/4" hole.
I dont know if it is a harden pin and there for do not know how well it will stand up to the stresses put apond it by the 12hp Kohler but I hope it will work as good as the factory called for pin.
There is a small amount of wear in the pin coupler, but I have seen far worst.
The orginal soild pin that was in the drive shaft was worn half way through befor it sheared, so I am hopeing that if I can get this groove pin to stay put it will last another 30 plus years.
The manual calls for a 1/4" by 1" 1/2" solid dowel pin, part # IH-19837-R1
I have ordered 3 of them from my cub cadet dealerand all 3 of them are now laying out in my yard never to be seen again.
So I tought I would try useing a 1/4" - 1" 1/2" spirol pin for a tighter fit.
When the spirol pin shears the part in the driveshaft is still there and needed to be reomved each time.
But being that I have sheared 2 of them in the past 4 month and I have had no luck useing the pin called for I decided to try another pin.
The grooved pin is a soild pin with 3 groves pressed into it to give it a tight fit in a 1/4" hole.
I dont know if it is a harden pin and there for do not know how well it will stand up to the stresses put apond it by the 12hp Kohler but I hope it will work as good as the factory called for pin.
There is a small amount of wear in the pin coupler, but I have seen far worst.
The orginal soild pin that was in the drive shaft was worn half way through befor it sheared, so I am hopeing that if I can get this groove pin to stay put it will last another 30 plus years.
For garden tilling I prefere my 3235 with the hyrdaulic driven tiller, I can reverse the tine direction with this one and by takeing my time I can till 6" deep on the first pass even in sod, leaveing a good 8 to 10 inch deep seed bed.
I had a tiller for my old 123 and did not like how it handled and that when I decided to get a different machine for tilling the garden.
BUT when it comes to plowing the garden my 100 will out plow the newer 3235.
I had a tiller for my old 123 and did not like how it handled and that when I decided to get a different machine for tilling the garden.
BUT when it comes to plowing the garden my 100 will out plow the newer 3235.
Morning guys, I acquired a plow from a buddy of mine a couple days ago and was wondering if anyone knows what brand it is, also where I might find a coulter for it. I also got a disc harrow but don't have pics yet.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Jim/John-
Have either of you shimmed part #1 in this diagram? It usually wears on the trunion shaft and gets really loose. Lately, my hydro linkage problems on most of my hydros, 1450 and 1650 included, have been this, and not a worn trunion slot. Get some 5/8" ID by .010" thick shims, and add them between #1 and the snap ring until you can't get the snap ring on, then remove one shim and install the snap ring. That should fix your problems. I welded up the trunion on my 1450, and it wasn't fixed until I did this. You could also replace that cam plate, but this will do about the same thing.
That's why my tiller is on my 128....Put it in low/1st and till away....
Jared C.-
You don't want those balance gears in there anyway, they would probably eventually come out the side of the block if you leave them in. There is little if any difference in terms of vibration.
Have either of you shimmed part #1 in this diagram? It usually wears on the trunion shaft and gets really loose. Lately, my hydro linkage problems on most of my hydros, 1450 and 1650 included, have been this, and not a worn trunion slot. Get some 5/8" ID by .010" thick shims, and add them between #1 and the snap ring until you can't get the snap ring on, then remove one shim and install the snap ring. That should fix your problems. I welded up the trunion on my 1450, and it wasn't fixed until I did this. You could also replace that cam plate, but this will do about the same thing.
That's why my tiller is on my 128....Put it in low/1st and till away....
Jared C.-
You don't want those balance gears in there anyway, they would probably eventually come out the side of the block if you leave them in. There is little if any difference in terms of vibration.
i must say, this is some good stuff about tilling. I just bought a tiller and am waiting till this weekend to get everything set up and going. I was told that tilling on virgin soil will be tough and should probably be best done with a big tractor and tiller. Good advice but where is the cub fun in that. What do you guys think about running a single (or double) row disc over it a couple of times and then tilling it. To kinda break up the sod a bit to make it a little easier for the tiller. Would that make sense or just waste time and gas? Either way more seat time I say.
Thanks for all the input guys. I think the tiller is just a matter of adjustment. My garden has been tilled for years, and I even disc it with a full size tractor each fall so it can soak up all the rain over the winter. The soil is definitely not the problem.
As for the hydro, I'll look at the shims. The hydro really intimidates me. Lots of linkages, arms, sliding things, cams, slots, valves, levers, ..........need I go on. On top of all that the adjustments I have done didn't work. So.............we'll see.
As for the hydro, I'll look at the shims. The hydro really intimidates me. Lots of linkages, arms, sliding things, cams, slots, valves, levers, ..........need I go on. On top of all that the adjustments I have done didn't work. So.............we'll see.
my coil is not firing. this thing has sat for a couple of years i parked it due to the fact it would just die on me but need to get it going agian. it looks like the engine has to be raised up to get the bottom screw out
Lonnie,
I got a couple ideas to help you with your spirol pin problem.
1. I will stop by and pick up the 127, bring it home, and fix it for you. Then I will thoroughly test to see if the spirol pins fly out or fall out before returning the 127 to you. This repair will have a full warranty<font size="-2">(30 feet or 30 seconds)</font>. Please understand this testing may take 2-3 years.......
2. My other thought is to change that older(122/123?) hood to the correct style and the problem will be solved. I can also do this for you. Same testing procedure/same warranty as above.
Both repairs are free, we only charge for delivering the cub back to you....
I got a couple ideas to help you with your spirol pin problem.
1. I will stop by and pick up the 127, bring it home, and fix it for you. Then I will thoroughly test to see if the spirol pins fly out or fall out before returning the 127 to you. This repair will have a full warranty<font size="-2">(30 feet or 30 seconds)</font>. Please understand this testing may take 2-3 years.......
2. My other thought is to change that older(122/123?) hood to the correct style and the problem will be solved. I can also do this for you. Same testing procedure/same warranty as above.
Both repairs are free, we only charge for delivering the cub back to you....
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Vince-
Don't forget to charge "storage" fees....
Don't forget to charge "storage" fees....
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