Archive through April 22, 2011

[tstewart]

Well sort off. I just used an old creeper and set it down on it. Good enough for now. Oh and I dont know if the 1000 will get to run the tiller or not. I got the 129 back running good... ended up the timing was just way off. Motor seems like new again, but still a couple of things I got to address before I can give it a workout. A stripped out axle-to-frame mount for starters... actually I think both of the bolts on the left side need re-tapped larger.

If I do get the 129 ready, and the creeper and new clutch parts in the 1000 maybe I'll just do half the garden with one and half with the other to see how they both handle it. Would be a lot of work swapping everything but I am crazy like that.

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By Ray Leo (Rleo) on Friday, April 22, 2011 - 11:33 am:

Tristan,
In the immortal words of Jackie Gleason: How sweet it is! I'm glad the #2 is working out for you. I miss the toy, but not the hernia to move the toy. Did you make a caddy for it? <!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

 

[tstewart]

Jeff, after another look the throwout arm looks completely worn through in a couple spots. I am sure its toast too. I also dont even see the teaser spring that was mentioned earlier to be backwards in the diagram... it should be visible right? I need to take the whole thing apart to get a better look & post some pictures... but I figure its pretty much going to be a complete clutch re build. At least I am learning how all these clutch parts work now!

I'll do a search for the drive spring compressor, sounds like I might need it! But with as much as I think will need replaced, and wanted a more heavy duty clutch anyhow, I am debating just buying the whole assembled clutch from MWSC.

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By jeff l baker (Jbaker) on Friday, April 22, 2011 - 04:43 pm:

Tristian a while back Charlie posted the dimensions of the OEM hole in the clutch lever (part #10) so you can measure the amount of wear on it.

Also the throw out bearing is probaly toast.

If you plan on rebuilding this your self, you really need to build Matt G,s drive spring compressor. I did and its the only way to go<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

 

[rmunda]

hi guys i have a 1450 that will only start if i let off the key it will turn over but not fire i changed the switch no change what do i need to check next thanks

 

[rwilke]

Hi Fellas,
Been away for a while - it's been a long winter for me....but a good one since I'm still employed - which is more than many can claim here in mid-Michigan!

Been reading the recent posts and figured I'd share my opinions/thoughts:

Robert K -- regarding the performance of your mowing deck: Something that wasn't mentioned was what shape is the blade shrouding under the deck? If the half-moon shrouding is mostly gone it won't cut or discharge the cuttings as well as it should.

Jeff B -- regarding storing your anti-freeze-loaded tires: I agree with Matt G that you can simply store them as is, BUT if either of them develop a leak while in storage, it WILL generate a sticky mess! If you decide to store them loaded, you might want to consider stacking/storing them flat in a container so as to contain any fluid if either of them develop a leak....such as a 55-gallon drum cut down to say 12" high, with a layer of cardboard in the bottom. Simply lay the tires in on the cardboard inside the shortened drum. The cardboard will keep the tire sidewall clean & off of the metal drum bottom and the cardboard will be a quick indicator if/when the tires leak.

Brandon McC -- If you still need to determine the size of the drive belt for your Danco loader, you can use a piece of rope to wrap around the pulleys and then carefully measure the total length. I suspect the belt needs to be 3/8" wide. Once you have the required length determined, it's likely that your friendly supplier can convert the length to a belt circumference & determine the belt part number you need. Once you've confirmed the proper belt, make a note of it in your tractor maintenance log.

Dennis F -- I'm not trying to start up any argument, but when you were sharing big tractor HP ratings versus tire/rim diameters... I think a missing part of that discussion was the optimum gearing aspect. If all the tractors had the same drive ratios, then I can see where the tire diameters would effect the usable gear-multiplication/torque/pulling power versus varying engine HP. But I suspect that the drive gearing is different between the tractors, which would change the usable gearing multiplication, regardless of HP generated. Am I making any sense?

(I often don't type things as clearly as I hope to)

RWilke

 

[digger]

 

[rwilke]

Thanks, Charlie!
..and the same back to you - and to everyone else here!

RWilke

 

[pdorow]

dtanner,

What kind/size front tire do you have on your none loader cub?

Thanks

 

[pdorow]

dtanner, well by the looks of your profile you have many CC,- LOL. The one I'm refering to is the 149 w/the spreader connected to it.

 

[dtanner]

Paul Dorow

There is no name brand on the tires on the front of my 149, I think they were made in China . They do work nice and were on the 149 when I bought it from Frank C of Maine. I know he did say I should sell him the tires back lol.I was thinking V61 s for it like I have on my 1512 . I do like those tires.

 

[dtanner]

ronnie munda

Check the wire going to the coil and see if you got power there. Did you check the plug to see if you have power , spark at the plug.?

 

[rmunda]

Donald I have 12volts to the coil but only in the run position not in start it will start and run if I turn the key back to run fast

 

[mschutz]

Well here goes. Last weekend I took my 125 to my nephews. It had a bad knock. We tore the engine down and found a broken cam shaft. Had a old 10hp motor there with the cam still in it so everything matched up we put it in. Just the cam. Friday I went too start it and it started hard and kind of kicked. Now I have a knock again. Sounds like its coming from top of engine. Any ideas from all you gear heads. Thanks Mel

 

[mschutz]

Oh yea, it still ran even with first broken cam shaft.

 

[dtanner]

Melody Schutz

Did you reset the valve lash ? At what rpm is it worse or not so bad ? Take a piece of wood and place one end against your head and the against the running engine.You will soon know where the sound is coming from . My .02

 

[mschutz]

Don T, We reset the valves when we put it back together. Its the worst at WOT. At an idle you don't even hear it. Happy Easter!

 

[brhodes]

Ronnie,

On cars before electronic ignition they had reduced voltage to the coil during running and 12 volts when the starter was engaged.

The wire would come from the 4th terminal off the solenoid.

Looking at the wiring diagram for the 1450 they do not appear to be wired that way. If you used a switch that might also work on a car that might be the issue??

If there are unused terminals on the back of your switch see if one has 12 volts all the time (in both positions)???

 

[digger]

Melody S.
DON'T believe little Donnie Tanner with that wood thing.
I tried it and it doesn't work!
It just made my head hurt!

 

[thoffman]

Charlie,
Damnit! He said the head of a "HAMMER" not a hammer head!

 

[mschutz]

Charlie, Don T, I already tried the long screwdriver to my ear bit. Thats how I know its coming out of the top end of motor.

 

[rotoole]

It appears that someone has stolen ever last one of the original bolts to hold the hood to the frame of my original tractor so it will hinge properly. I have several parts people tell me that just go to the hardware store and buy such and such. Ok! But if I could restore it I should have IH bolts?