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Archive through November 20, 2018

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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mfrade

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 18, 2000
Messages
2,521
Location
New Bedford, MA
displayname
Mike Frade
Frank. In what way can I be "overthinking" this???

Suck / Squish / Bang / Spit... my motor does 3 out of the 4..
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The Starter Generator cannot spin it over due to compression right??? All that leaves is the ACR.

The motor was assembled by the book, ( thanks for the info Doug) the same book that says use a dial indicator and measure a number in thousandths and set the piston in the cylinder "ABOUT 2/3's", I bolted a degree wheel to the crank and dialed it into 2/3's of that stroke. Maybe I shoulda eyeballed it?!?! LOL
 
Mike, In your case you left out Chirp!
The 12hp engine I had that was hard starting, I found the ACR was keeping the exhaust valve open, but just not far enough. Adjusted to spec per the manual with dial indicator and WHA-LA....no more spin-stop, spin-stop. Cranked over just the way it should till it started.
 
Mike:
I had the same problems with starting especially in the winter. I tried everything that I could think of and thought maybe the S/G. I removed it and asked my neighbor to come over and look at it. He has a lot of knowledge in motors and Generators. We took it apart and he saw that some of the insulation/covering on the wires going to the winding was missing. It either got hot or age or both. I ordered a new S/G from Charlie and all of the problems are gone. I cannot believe the difference.It spins and starts right up.
This may not be your problem but you might want to look at it.
Earl L
 
I'm curious if anyone of you guys have ever experienced a surging type of throttle response at the upper end of the engine RPM range on a K3201? The only time the 126 sees any usage is during the cold season for snow plowing purposes. This past summer, when I was wanting to start it and run for a while, it would not fire off..No spark..I cleaned the points and it fired off an ran good. A couple of days ago, I installed a new OEM type of muffler as the one on it was rusted out and louder than necessary. I started it, and ran it at low RPMs for a couple minutes and then ran the RPM up and saw the governor arm was cycling back and forth, causing the RPM to surge up and down. I use non ethanol fuel, with a fuel stabilizer and a dose of MMO to the fuel..I adjusted the air/fuel mix screw and it seems to have corrected the problem. It's odd to me that it would suddenly have a surging issue, when it did not have one before. Perhaps changing the back pressure on the engine with a new muffler affected the air-fuel mixture? What's anyones best ideas? Thanks
 
Crap in the carb, change in temp, load, etc. all could make a difference. You also may have bumped the governor linkage during the muffler install.

Check max RPM, re-tune all warmed up and see what happens next.....
 
I have a 1973 IH 129 Cub Cadet which I have owned for the last 25 plus years. Recently the previously damaged spark plug threads gave way and the spark plug blew out of the head. I've re-tapped the threads and inserted a heli-coil which is working fine. When the head blew it apparently took out my coil which I replaced with a Ford coil from an automotive parts shop. I was told this was a similar substitute. In the few times I've used the tractor since I have had an occasional miss-fire however the other day when this happened the top of the coil broke off.

Any ideas as to why this may have happened? I've purchased a new OEM replacement coil, condenser and points which I plan to install in the next few days.

I know my charging system does not work; it hasn't since I've owned the tractor. I just put the battery on a charger a couple time throughout the year as needed.

I want to make sure there is not something else that could cause the coil to fail again. The existing points and condenser are around 6-8 years old. Thank you.
 
Thanks Kirk, that's where I'm headed. Even tho' I did the measures as spec'ed I'm going to adjust just a bit more so the valve opens more and stays open a bit more.

Thanks Earl, I did try 2 other Starter Gens and there was no change. Not saying it isn't "THE" problem since they were all used Starter Gens but I expected at least some change.
 
Ken C., a Ford coil is a wide open statement. Ford used a bunch of different coils, when 12 volts became common they added a resistance wire to hold the ignition system at ~ 6 volts, once electronic ignitions evolved and became common, those ran on 12 volts but they are completely different - even the connectors.

Cubs used a GM coil with an internal resistor, 12 volts gets applied and the internal resistor holds the coils ~ 6 volts to prevent it from overheating. Which I think your replacement did, it may have boiled the oil inside enough to cause it to burst.. But that's a guess on my part.
 
Big thanks to Aaron at xtreme motor works for getting me my new plow scraper edge an a set of new shoes for iron patriots 42 inch plow
 
Have a Happy Thanksgiving Day! And thanks Charlie, Kraig - for all you do for us. Thinking of you too Bryan.
 
I hope and pray that everyone has a safe and happy Thanksgiving.
 
Black and White Friday.
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Nice integration, Charlie, makes me think of the keys on a piano.
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Thanks Mike, I appreciate your input. That's what I was thinking that it was the wrong coil. I installed the new OEM coil, points and condenser today and it fired right up and ran fine. It did want to diesel a bit on shut down and backfired. I have the points set at 0.020" and as usual I let it run down to idle for about 30 seconds.
 
Put new chains on the 70 today. Also swapped out the shoes on the blade with some new stainless steel from Xtreme Motorworks. Not much life left in the old ones.

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quote - I installed the new OEM coil, points and condenser today and it fired right up and ran fine. It did want to diesel a bit on shut down and backfired. I have the points set at 0.020" and as usual I let it run down to idle for about 30 seconds.- end"

Ken C., glad to have helped in some small way. When I let mine idle down, before shutdown, I shut off the fuel valve at the tank and still let it run a bit more. "Just because". But it seems to have helped with the dieseling and no more big bang when it finally does stop.
 
Brian A,you and I must have been on the same wavelength today I did the same thing...installed new shoes and a new scraper edge on my plow...then I started wrenching on the freebie 149,I think I should be able to get it to turn over tomorrow when I drop a battery in
 
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