Jim S.- Your numbers don't look bad at all. I think I'd run a glaze breaker hone through it to put a crosshatch in and re-measure. If it's still in tolerance run it. Unless the crank is completely tore up you can cut a new keyway 180 from the original and save having to find another crank. Good luck
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Archive through November 22, 2017
- Thread starter etopel
- Start date
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Jim-If you have a new key way cut in the crank have them cut it at 90 degrees instead of 180. Leaves a little more meat on the bone.
mfrade
Well-known member
Good Morning and Happy Thanksgiving to all!
Jim, I'm not certain as to your methodology/use but your results do put the wear at the edge of the wear limit. On my 169 it was the same and I decided to run the same piston /cylinder combo and replaced the conn rod.
Did you use an internal micrometer that expands/extends out and you would turn out,open the micrometer to remove the clearance between the mic and the cylinder? And your measured in two directions, 90 degrees to each other? It sounds like you did it all properly.. just getting my coffee down LOL...
Jim, I'm not certain as to your methodology/use but your results do put the wear at the edge of the wear limit. On my 169 it was the same and I decided to run the same piston /cylinder combo and replaced the conn rod.
Did you use an internal micrometer that expands/extends out and you would turn out,open the micrometer to remove the clearance between the mic and the cylinder? And your measured in two directions, 90 degrees to each other? It sounds like you did it all properly.. just getting my coffee down LOL...
Happy Thanksgiving to all!
Hi Guys,
I used the micrometer shown below in a mic stand and set up a similar style bore gage via micrometer after checking it with a standard.
I did think about re-cutting the key seat in the shaft, but I figured a replacement shaft would be cheaper. Thought about spot welding a new key the length of the shaft and having the key cut down to reform the shaft and re-cutting 180 degrees, but that might be expensive. I still have to measure the crank pin.
I used the micrometer shown below in a mic stand and set up a similar style bore gage via micrometer after checking it with a standard.
I did think about re-cutting the key seat in the shaft, but I figured a replacement shaft would be cheaper. Thought about spot welding a new key the length of the shaft and having the key cut down to reform the shaft and re-cutting 180 degrees, but that might be expensive. I still have to measure the crank pin.
mfrade
Well-known member
Looking good Jim. I'd say you got it right. In regards to the crank, if it were mine, I'd search for a replacement first. If the prices got crazy then I would look at repairing the damage.
A replacement crank would have to come from another 16 HP or a 1450, 147 or 149 according to the parts books. The piston and rod are 16HP specific.
I got lucky and had another 16HP crank to replace the one in my 1650 that laid down on me 2 weeks ago. The flywheel pin sheared and tore up the crank and the flywheel. It's at the machine shop now awaiting inspection to see if I can reuse the rod that was in it.
I got lucky and had another 16HP crank to replace the one in my 1650 that laid down on me 2 weeks ago. The flywheel pin sheared and tore up the crank and the flywheel. It's at the machine shop now awaiting inspection to see if I can reuse the rod that was in it.
So the wife says I can't remove snow on the new asphalt this winter with the 1466! Grrrr
So I had a dual stick 1450 and a batch of NOS parts laying around, so I figured, what the heck, why not throw something together, LOL
So I had a dual stick 1450 and a batch of NOS parts laying around, so I figured, what the heck, why not throw something together, LOL
mfrade
Well-known member
Good Stuff there Charlie. Is the cutting edge missing?
Being able to turn the plow like that will make things so much easier.
Being able to turn the plow like that will make things so much easier.
Mike F.
Those 2 white pieces laying on the floor are the cutting edge. No steel or I'd mess up the asphalt, so the wife says, LOL
Pretty said that a NOS MTD blade would drop paint like that!
It actually works too.
Those 2 white pieces laying on the floor are the cutting edge. No steel or I'd mess up the asphalt, so the wife says, LOL
Pretty said that a NOS MTD blade would drop paint like that!
It actually works too.
mgwin
Well-known member
Nice setup Charlie!
I like the new safer type edge on that blade.
With all the snow you get, why not a snow thrower?
I like the new safer type edge on that blade.
With all the snow you get, why not a snow thrower?
Marty G.
Everything else has chains. ;-)
Everything else has chains. ;-)
Powder coat with lousy prep!!??
Neighbor just had is utility flat single axle trailer sandblasted and powder coated for $500.
Will be interesting to see just how that holds up.
I have the same issue w/my GTX2154LE deck with paint flaking off in spots.
Here's hoping all you folks that traveled far and wide for the thanksgiving holiday make it home safe and sound.
Be careful out there!!
Neighbor just had is utility flat single axle trailer sandblasted and powder coated for $500.
Will be interesting to see just how that holds up.
I have the same issue w/my GTX2154LE deck with paint flaking off in spots.
Here's hoping all you folks that traveled far and wide for the thanksgiving holiday make it home safe and sound.
Be careful out there!!
mfrade
Well-known member
Great idea Charlie. Looks like it'll work good, wonder how long they can last? I'll try and remember to ask you that question after the winter is over.
So for you folks, that's like August right?
So for you folks, that's like August right?
nah! right around the 4th of July!
I'm not doing anything with it until I see if I can move around without chains, LOL
