Amy, heat from the engine causes the fuel to expand...
Wyatt, yep! Here's two more:
Wyatt, yep! Here's two more:
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Archive through April 20, 2013
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
I'm back to a viable garden tractor. Just in time too, the weather is heading in the right direction where I am. Thanks again to all the contributors to this site. I hope I haven't worn out you search function! Here's a picture of where I started and where I stand today
Martin H.
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Amy - theoretically, the float/float needle/seat assembly should prevent any change in the height of the fuel level in the bowl, regardless of whether the gas tank is pressurized or not. In reality, any leakage past the needle/seat will be worsened if the tank is pressurized. If it were me, and I could detect pressure in the tank, I'd determine why the cap vent wasn't working properly, as the pressure buildup caused by vaporization of hot gas shouldn't happen so fast that you'd see pressure buildup... <font size="-2">(JMHO yada yada yada)</font>
When I hear of overheating issues this time of year I think of the good ole mouse nest.
If you have "stuff" flying out of top of the engine when running it's time to pull it and clean it. I keep a close eye on the engine head this time of year and compressed air can help verify mice. I've also noticed they like to use the area behind the muffler in QLs. Those can usually be blown out without removing the engine for access.
Just a little food for thought...
If you have "stuff" flying out of top of the engine when running it's time to pull it and clean it. I keep a close eye on the engine head this time of year and compressed air can help verify mice. I've also noticed they like to use the area behind the muffler in QLs. Those can usually be blown out without removing the engine for access.
Just a little food for thought...
akleyla
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 26, 2011
- Messages
- 291
- displayname
- Amy J. Kleyla
Yesterday I had to tighten the part the bowl is on under the tank because it was loose an leaking. So then I wasnt sure how tight to make the bowl with the lil round wheel underneath it. I noticed if it was too tight the gas wouldnt flow into the bowl,but when I loosened it the fuel started dripping in the bowl.
The brake pads I recently reworked for Howards 169 turned out so well I decided to use the remainder of material to do a 149 of mine. I ended up getting 10 of the oval pads from a 7 1/2" x 7 1/2" sheet of the brake material.
I've removed several pads from cubs and have yet to find a set that has worn evenly. The bracket attached to the axle tube is always cocked just a tad apparently from the factory. This is also another example of where IH assembled before painting. I haven't found one yet that has paint underneath this axle bracket nor under the "caliper" of the brake.
I guess this is one of those things that gets easier with experience. The second set went a lot faster than the first. I was able to eliminate a couple of steps I took with the first too. I didn't fool with anything but the pads with Howards brakes and I have redone everything except the axle bracket on mine paintwise including the adjusting rods down to the jam nuts. I might even end up taking them off and when I take something off it usually gets painted. I will have to loosen the bracket anyway to try and get the brakes aligned and straight as possible for even wear in the future.
I will post pics when finished but I have a couple of days for the paint process left. I'm using rattle cans of primer and Dupli-Color #DA1663 "School Bus Yellow" which is a close but not exact match. It's half the price of IH yellow and that makes the match close enough for me.
I've removed several pads from cubs and have yet to find a set that has worn evenly. The bracket attached to the axle tube is always cocked just a tad apparently from the factory. This is also another example of where IH assembled before painting. I haven't found one yet that has paint underneath this axle bracket nor under the "caliper" of the brake.
I guess this is one of those things that gets easier with experience. The second set went a lot faster than the first. I was able to eliminate a couple of steps I took with the first too. I didn't fool with anything but the pads with Howards brakes and I have redone everything except the axle bracket on mine paintwise including the adjusting rods down to the jam nuts. I might even end up taking them off and when I take something off it usually gets painted. I will have to loosen the bracket anyway to try and get the brakes aligned and straight as possible for even wear in the future.
I will post pics when finished but I have a couple of days for the paint process left. I'm using rattle cans of primer and Dupli-Color #DA1663 "School Bus Yellow" which is a close but not exact match. It's half the price of IH yellow and that makes the match close enough for me.
dwilkinson
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 9, 2008
- Messages
- 46
- displayname
- Doug Wilkinson
Wayne: have you tried those brakes yet? Will they grip enough to slide the wheels? I replaced mine and used some friction material made for a large tractor clutch and the friction coefficient is not enough to give me the brakes I want. What material did you use and where is it available? If the brakes work well, I'll change mine again. Thanks
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Bill J - if you do decide or have to do something with your carb I'd suggest also checking and adjusting the valve lifters. Since your engine is unknown to you it's best to make it a "known to you".
WYATT - KRAIG is like Me, He NEVER throws ANYTHING away. Difference is HE can find it!
JIM HARDER - Blowing dust off a CC is a great way to get the dust & dirt off after mowing. Whether you use a leaf blower, air compressor and air hose & nozzle.
IMHO, DO NOT use a garden hose and NEVER use a pressure washer on a CC & mower deck you ever intend to run again without a complete tear-down. You'll get water into places you didn't even know the tractor/mower had places. Oil, WATER, grease, paint, belts, friction materials like clutch & brake pads, precision machined parts, clean electrical grounds, ALL do not play well together. All those nice clean unpainted steel parts, and even a lot of the painted parts will be RUSTY when ever you get around to taking them apart later.
If your tractor isn't clean enough to suit you after you blow it off use a damp cloth and wipe it down, or a Swiffer Duster. If you have tree sap or grass stains on it use the proper cleaner sparingly on a clean cloth to wipe it off.
DO NOT run water over the tractor and then park it for a week.
JIM HARDER - Blowing dust off a CC is a great way to get the dust & dirt off after mowing. Whether you use a leaf blower, air compressor and air hose & nozzle.
IMHO, DO NOT use a garden hose and NEVER use a pressure washer on a CC & mower deck you ever intend to run again without a complete tear-down. You'll get water into places you didn't even know the tractor/mower had places. Oil, WATER, grease, paint, belts, friction materials like clutch & brake pads, precision machined parts, clean electrical grounds, ALL do not play well together. All those nice clean unpainted steel parts, and even a lot of the painted parts will be RUSTY when ever you get around to taking them apart later.
If your tractor isn't clean enough to suit you after you blow it off use a damp cloth and wipe it down, or a Swiffer Duster. If you have tree sap or grass stains on it use the proper cleaner sparingly on a clean cloth to wipe it off.
DO NOT run water over the tractor and then park it for a week.
