• This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.

    Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades

Archive through April 23, 2014

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

speterson

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 31, 2006
Messages
155
displayname
speterson
Bryan Custer
It's been a while since I posted anything, but I catch up on the forum now and again. Now a days it's mostly on my phone so I don't log in.

The aerator on my 149 is a Leinbach Line brand that I found on clearance a few years ago. It's the same as the ones others posted links to and probably has several different labels. I added a bracket for it to attach to the cub cadet 3-point just like the Brinly sleeve hitch adapter attaches.

Mine is 48 inches wide and when full of water is pretty heavy. If you build or buy one, be sure you build or buy some of Aaron's brackets to beef up the connection to your rear end housing. If you just use the factory plate with three bolts you will tear them out with to much use (don't ask me how I know that).

It works pretty good as long as your lawn is wet enough.
 
Quick question - Anyone know the dimensions of the clutch return spring used on a 1x6 tractor (in my case a 126). I've probably got something in the basement that will work.

My clutch is not riding up to the stop on the upper half of travel and I'm thinking it's the return spring.

Draining the fluid out of the tranny on the 126 and will refill with Hytran I have left over from the 5 gal bucket I bought a few years ago.

This 126 would be one quiet machine if/when I get the clutch rattle fixed and deal with the noisy spindles on the 48 inch deck.
 
I have a 1250 and the front spindles won't take grease. Pulled the zerks (they were threaded so probably replaced at one time) and the hole bottoms out at the spacer. I assume there is supposed to be a hole in the spacer to allow grease to the bolt and that the spacer turned in the axle. Is my assumption correct or is something else going on.
 
Doug,

Casting has a hollow cavity. Spacer should turn with spindle, not bolt inside spacer.

Take everything apart, clean out axle really well (note grease cavity), grind just a little bit off the top of the axle casting (to guarantee correct spindle assembly), polish spacer and reinstall. If everything is correct the bolt should draw the spindle tight against the spacer and the spacer/bolt/spindle should act as an assembly (one piece) rotating inside the casting. Grease and enjoy fruits of labor.....
 
Awhile back someone post a pic of a hydro that had flex couplers installed on both ends of the drive shaft. can someone tell me what parts I need to do this conversion. My 169 is due for a rear coupling arm - again. hoping this mode will stop this part from failing.
 
Doug: I've got this bookmarked. Is it what you're thinking of? If so, thank Scott!
happy.gif


https://www.ihcubcadet.com/cgi-bin/discus/board-auth.pl?lm=1378949824&file=/219673/261538.html
 
Anyone with a 782 tractor, can you tell me the overall length of the beast from grill to tip of drawbar? I am picking one up tomorrow and I'm trying to find out if I can fit it into the back of my van without removing the bench seat that's mounted amidships.
It looks like I have about 75" between the rear doors and the seatback.

Thanks!
 
Michael Miller - don't know the overall length of a 782, and you did not mention type of van. I do know other people have tried getting some of these tractors into Mini-vans and had a problem due to overall "height" of the steering wheel. Something about the angle of the ramps and the steering wheel contacting the upper parts of the door jams when the tractor is angled. Just something else to check.
 
Harry, I've got a Ford E350 extended van that has carried home many cub cadets. I know the 782 will fit, I just don't want to unbolt the rear seat if I don't have to. I usually hook a come-along to the rear seat base and winch the tractor up the ramps into the van, so removing the seat is problematic.
 
Forgot to attach the pictures to the previous post:

285721.jpg


285722.jpg
 
Harry B - I sold an off color tractor one time and I can't remember just which state the fellow came from, it was either GA or FL, but he was traveling through the area with something like a Chevy Equinox. I was out of town when he came, so I took the tractor to my parents home and they collected the $$$'s for me and watched the guy load the tractor in the back of that Chevy.

He took the tractor apart, piece by piece and loaded it into his car. My parents said it must have taken him 3 or 4 hours!

He told them that he had hauled several tractors home this way - reassembled and had himself a tractor again!

I'm getting to the point if another tractor comes into the fleet, it had better be able to drive under it's own power onto the trailer!

Cub Cadet content: Going to have a look-see at the 1650's governor. Don't think the linkage is set right on it as it wants to bog down some on a hill.
 
Frank C. that is what I'm looking for. Now Scott T if your out there What parts do I need to do this conversion.
 
Mike I have a rough length of about 70" on my 782, about 42.5" tall.
 
Another something not going together correctly.12hp Kohler and when I tighten the 11/16 hex in front of the electric clutch it locks and only turns with the engine.I have a service manual and looks like I have it assembled right.What do you think?
Dan
 
Brian K, that's what I needed! It sounds like the 782 will just fit in my van with the seat in place. Thanks!
 
Hey all.. Progress update on the 124...

Flushed the tank, replaced the sediment bowl screen and gasket (both were pretty beat) and cleaned out the fuel feeder pipe...

All were in good shape

Got the carb off... Bowl was kind gummed up along with the float (not too bad) but the float needle is definitely getting stuck and so am I!

How in the heck do you get the float pin out to release the float so you can replace the float needle/seat and gasket?

I tried giving each end a decent push to see if it would slide through but I'm having no luck
sad.gif
 
Brian E.
It must be corroded because it should slide out easily in either direction.Take needle nose pliers and push and pull until it comes out.
 
@Dan, its in surprisingly good shape... I'll go at it with the needle nose and failing that, I have some nail setters/punches that I could tap it with...
 
Brian E - patience, patience, patience. Don't pry or twist it. Been there, done that, got the baseball award. When the ear broke off the Carb made a nice tossing piece.
Best to soak that bugger and see if the pin frees up. Someone else may have additional suggestions but just be real careful.

Dan M - There should be a spacer and a washer on that bolt you're mentioning. I don't have the manual with me but sounds like you might be missing something. Suggest you check for all the items again. If you got all the assembly pieces did you happen to check the bearing to make sure it's not froze/locked up?
 

Latest posts

Back
Top