-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Archive through April 10, 2010
- Thread starter dtanner
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
WES H. - I went thru My 50C deck for the 982 a year ago, one spindle was really loose in the bearing housing and another was starting to get loose, I shimmed the one with some brass shim stock. Worked fine for about 3 mowings, forth mowing it wore thru the shim stock and was "streaking" again.
Since I'm not going to Travis's PD today I'm planning on fixing that today. I only mowed with the 982 four times last year because of that problem. The waterpump bearings are all fine, spin free, the one housing just doesn't hold the bearing/shaft in position correctly.
JEFF C. - The 44 & 50 inch decks do have some issues but are actually a good deck. The deck skins tend to crack where the rear gauge wheel brackets are welded on. The whole mower housing will warp or twist if used really hard. But that's all fixable. As long as the spindle bearings are kept greased the non-replacable waterpump style bearings last almost forever.
I'd take the deck off the tractor and take the spindles off and look everything over closely and see if you really need all those parts, $600 is a LOT of money. The idler bearing and the little torsion spring that tensions the belt are pretty reasonable in price. Even if your spring isn't broken I'd replace it, the formed "eye" that bolts the spring to the deck always breaks!
Since I'm not going to Travis's PD today I'm planning on fixing that today. I only mowed with the 982 four times last year because of that problem. The waterpump bearings are all fine, spin free, the one housing just doesn't hold the bearing/shaft in position correctly.
JEFF C. - The 44 & 50 inch decks do have some issues but are actually a good deck. The deck skins tend to crack where the rear gauge wheel brackets are welded on. The whole mower housing will warp or twist if used really hard. But that's all fixable. As long as the spindle bearings are kept greased the non-replacable waterpump style bearings last almost forever.
I'd take the deck off the tractor and take the spindles off and look everything over closely and see if you really need all those parts, $600 is a LOT of money. The idler bearing and the little torsion spring that tensions the belt are pretty reasonable in price. Even if your spring isn't broken I'd replace it, the formed "eye" that bolts the spring to the deck always breaks!
Dennis Frisk
I have a 44" deck here that I will try to install on my 1512 this spring and I will have a few questions as to what should be done to it before I try to use it. I think it should be gone over before I try to use it.The deck is in great shape with no cracks and only one spindle turn a little rough and grease might cure that i hope, I do have six new bearings here if needed.Should I take it all apart and clean out the old grease and degrease it before use. It has not been used for at least five years I think. Thanks as always. Don
I have a 44" deck here that I will try to install on my 1512 this spring and I will have a few questions as to what should be done to it before I try to use it. I think it should be gone over before I try to use it.The deck is in great shape with no cracks and only one spindle turn a little rough and grease might cure that i hope, I do have six new bearings here if needed.Should I take it all apart and clean out the old grease and degrease it before use. It has not been used for at least five years I think. Thanks as always. Don
I have a 42" deck that needs help, it has bits and pieces scab welded on it and is kinda worn out. I guess my question is how far gone is too far to repair? My grandad says if I knew of a good machine shop I could have some pieces pressed into the right shape and welded in. I will get some pics and get your opinions.
DON - What I did to my 50C last spring was take it ALL apart, the main backbone of the 44 & 50's is a stamped 1/4" thk piece of steel bolted on top of the deck skin. To get it apart like that you remove all the bearings & housings, the idler & idler pivot arm. I check EVERYTHING for flatness, and true the skin to the 1/4" plate.
There really isn't anything you can do to the spindle bearings, the tapered roller bearings for the old decks won't work. Like Wes mentioned, just make sure the bearing is tight in the housing when assembled.
With everything back together install the blades and make sure each blade tip is even with the blade tips next to it, set a straight edge across the tips of the blades and make sure they are all at the same level. If one blade is lower than the other two you may have to shim the lower blade with a thin flatwasher. If a blade is lower/higher in front than in back the spindle housing or deck skin or the 1/4" plate isn't flate enough yet. Also check both ends of the blades when checking everything, you may have a slightly bent blade that's throwing everything off.
When you have the spindles apart, I would clean all the old grease out, then grease it up good when it's back together. It's probably O-K.
Your 1512 won't even break a sweat with a 44" deck. I ran a 44A on a 129 for 15 years. Tractor was a "Basket Case" when I got it, a real money pit, but was my favorite tractor to mow with. Wish I'd kept the deck when I sold the tractor 4 yrs ago, I'd put it under my 72.
Biggest problem I have with my 50C is the fact it's so wide, and it's touchy to get it level side-to-side since the eyebolts & rear mountes are only eleven inches apart and there's twenty inches of mower beyond those mounts! I added a roller under the back of the center blade inside the mower housing and it really helped improve the way the mower performed.
There really isn't anything you can do to the spindle bearings, the tapered roller bearings for the old decks won't work. Like Wes mentioned, just make sure the bearing is tight in the housing when assembled.
With everything back together install the blades and make sure each blade tip is even with the blade tips next to it, set a straight edge across the tips of the blades and make sure they are all at the same level. If one blade is lower than the other two you may have to shim the lower blade with a thin flatwasher. If a blade is lower/higher in front than in back the spindle housing or deck skin or the 1/4" plate isn't flate enough yet. Also check both ends of the blades when checking everything, you may have a slightly bent blade that's throwing everything off.
When you have the spindles apart, I would clean all the old grease out, then grease it up good when it's back together. It's probably O-K.
Your 1512 won't even break a sweat with a 44" deck. I ran a 44A on a 129 for 15 years. Tractor was a "Basket Case" when I got it, a real money pit, but was my favorite tractor to mow with. Wish I'd kept the deck when I sold the tractor 4 yrs ago, I'd put it under my 72.
Biggest problem I have with my 50C is the fact it's so wide, and it's touchy to get it level side-to-side since the eyebolts & rear mountes are only eleven inches apart and there's twenty inches of mower beyond those mounts! I added a roller under the back of the center blade inside the mower housing and it really helped improve the way the mower performed.
Dennis Frisk
Thanks again,Its only 41 deg here so I won`t be doing much out side today. its brrrr here. I will take your advice and do the work on the deck.I have much to do here but still want to try that deck on my 1512 and see how it mows. My wife has planted so many plants , trees, that I can`t use a bigger deck here. She uses a push mower to cut it all in for me and now understands what I have said in the past about to many plants to get the tractor around. Thanks for your good info as always. Don
Thanks again,Its only 41 deg here so I won`t be doing much out side today. its brrrr here. I will take your advice and do the work on the deck.I have much to do here but still want to try that deck on my 1512 and see how it mows. My wife has planted so many plants , trees, that I can`t use a bigger deck here. She uses a push mower to cut it all in for me and now understands what I have said in the past about to many plants to get the tractor around. Thanks for your good info as always. Don
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Ron:
From one of the forum sponsors:
http://ccspecialties.org/fuel_tuneup_maint.html
Scroll down the page.....
From one of the forum sponsors:
http://ccspecialties.org/fuel_tuneup_maint.html
Scroll down the page.....
DON-One thing I didn't care for was how W-I-D-E the 44 & 50 in. decks were, so on the 44" I cut the discharge shield down so the whole deck was only 46-47" wide, narrow enough to fit between the wheel wells of my pickup with the bedliner installed. I haven't cut my 50C because it wouldn't fit anyhow, but if I remember right it's over 60 inches wide.
I also felt the 44" deck on a 129 extended further to the left to make trimming under trees much easier than the 50C/982.
I don't even own a push mower, just a gas weed-eater I use to trim a couple times a year. Everything gets mowed, or I spray Round-up and try to keep the ground bare.
I also think any CC mower mows better at slower speed, say in 1st with a GD, an early 70/100 with the 3.2 mph 2nd is a good mowing speed, but my 3.9 mph 2nd in my 72 is too fast. If I had a barnyard and just wanted to keep the weeds down it would be fine. Even with a Hydro I seldom mow over 3 MPH and keep a sharp eye behind me on what I've just mowed.
I also felt the 44" deck on a 129 extended further to the left to make trimming under trees much easier than the 50C/982.
I don't even own a push mower, just a gas weed-eater I use to trim a couple times a year. Everything gets mowed, or I spray Round-up and try to keep the ground bare.
I also think any CC mower mows better at slower speed, say in 1st with a GD, an early 70/100 with the 3.2 mph 2nd is a good mowing speed, but my 3.9 mph 2nd in my 72 is too fast. If I had a barnyard and just wanted to keep the weeds down it would be fine. Even with a Hydro I seldom mow over 3 MPH and keep a sharp eye behind me on what I've just mowed.
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Scott,
If there are multiple serious problems with the deck, i.e. cracked castings, large rust holes in the skin, dogged out pulleys, and torn up spindles, it might be time to look for a better deck, or at least an identical deck that has different problems than yours, so you might be able to make a decent deck out of the two. I have a project I started on last fall that will make a good deck from 2 worn out decks. One has a cracked and badly welded center casting but a decent skin, and a couple of good spindles. The other has deck has a good center casting, a couple of good spindles, along with a bad one and a rusted out skin. I plan to put it on the 102 or 125 in case the 129 is down for a while.
If there are multiple serious problems with the deck, i.e. cracked castings, large rust holes in the skin, dogged out pulleys, and torn up spindles, it might be time to look for a better deck, or at least an identical deck that has different problems than yours, so you might be able to make a decent deck out of the two. I have a project I started on last fall that will make a good deck from 2 worn out decks. One has a cracked and badly welded center casting but a decent skin, and a couple of good spindles. The other has deck has a good center casting, a couple of good spindles, along with a bad one and a rusted out skin. I plan to put it on the 102 or 125 in case the 129 is down for a while.
have any of u guys built a sleeve hitch. the pivot part on the top of frame. i have a cub 73 narrow frame that id like to use my brinley plow behind. i used itlast year just bolted to the tounge and pulled it around the garden. i know the sponsers have them, but being laid off i dont have the money to buy one. i kinda have it planned out how to build one just need some numbers.
if anybody has built one please try to help. btw im not wanting the CAT 0 3 point. thanks
if anybody has built one please try to help. btw im not wanting the CAT 0 3 point. thanks
mgwin
Well-known member
OK guys, I just finished the restoration on the 70!
Here are some before and after photos:
Here are some before and after photos:
The wife decided she needed a rock garden, so I had to play with a little rock today instead of plowin.
Between the 2 machines, we did pretty well moving 40 yards of rock around.
Between the 2 machines, we did pretty well moving 40 yards of rock around.
Marty G.
WELL DONE!
WELL DONE!
mstetar
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2008
- Messages
- 510
- displayname
- Matt (Diesel Creek)
hey guys! its been a loooong time since ive checked in here, still cubbing but been real busy, the rod went in my 149 a few weeks ago so its all apart, what i need to know is what number carb i need for a 10hp?... my neighbor needs one and i have one floating around but dont know if it will fit.
