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Archive through April 03, 2006

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Don, I'm glad you posted a photo with that comment......
 
Ok Fellas,
I got about 4 hrs of cub time tonite, I have started tearing down a 104 to cleanup and paint for my son. It will become red and white. I now know the reason for the pin tool that I have heard about.. Is it feasable to drill and install a grade 8 bolt instead of the spiral pin back by the trans.? Would it hold up just as well? The mower deck will be removed and he is planning on pulling with it. It will probably never happen but if he were pulling I think it would be a quicker fix to put a bolt back up in the driveshaft than fit with a pin.

Rick
 
Rick,
The grade 8 bolts will work just fine. You won't even have to drill the holes out. Just drive the spiral pins out and insert the 1/4 inch bolts. It's a good idea to use lock nuts so that they don't vibrate loose.
 
Rick, I believe the bolt will eventually wallow out the holes in the driveshaft and coupler, especially a grade 8 bolt. The spirol pin will give a little and lessen the shock to the parts where the bolt will hammer on them.
 
KRAIG - The bolt will just work on the back hole on the driveshaft where it joins the coupler....and will make that hole oblong, every other place there is either two pins or the shaft is hardened as in the pinion in the reduction housing or creeper, or the diameter of the coupler is larger. I didn't use Grd 8 bolts but O2 tool steel pins in the normalized state, but the outcome is/was the same.
A driveshaft will last 41 yrs in a 7 or 8 HP Cub Cadet....I've worn out TWO driveshafts in My 72 since 1985 when I put the 10 hp in it. I'm making some improvements when I drop the K321 into it this summer or fall.
 
Here are some pictures taken at the Eden Tractor Pull last weekend. My friend Steve Hedstrom and I went together. Here's Steve's nice 582 with all the good stuff installed, including a Kohler V-twin.
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Some other nice examples of differing brands were also present.
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Here's some shots of the action.
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I didn't do so well. Was the only "hometown class" tractor present so they paired me up with the 1050 pound class...tractors that had adjustable hitches. Makes a big difference.
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Next year I might have to install this:
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Here are some pics from the NQS pull held recently at Poor Farmers Campground just outside of Fletcher, OH

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Some off topic equipment.
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Wild Bill, looks to me like some of those "off-topic" tractors, (both the JDs and the New Holland), are sporting a Cub Cadet chassis/transmission.
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Kraig: You have good eyes fine sir!

I did get a close up of the Wheel Horse....
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There is NO QUESTION as to what kind of rear end they were running
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I also got a pic of this decal on the back of the seat.
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Wild Bill: Could you send me that very last picture to my e-mail. That is a very good looking set up and I know I can make that myself! I do not buy I make!! Really

pops
 
Ben: Are you wanting the picture of the adjustable pulling hitch?
 
Thanks Wild Bill!! Got an e-mail and Brian and I have been talking back and forth. I saved the info and later this fall or winter be a good project when I have to be at work on a Sat.

Pops
 
Hi
New guy here that recently went to a small local pull with my grandson (we all know where this could go)
Live in east central Wi.near Sheboygan.
My questions are:
Can anyone give me a pulling association address, contact name, club website, etc. close to my area?
Would like to turn a 482 into a puller for my grand son so I am looking for rules, schedules, and any other advice you can pass along to a green horn.
 
I have an error on my post form this morning, my tractor is a 582 not a 482!
 
I think the lakeshore pullers would be closest to you. they used to be based out of the Manitowoc area. I'm sure David Kirk might have a contact name.
 
Was pulling in the 1100 lb. class yesterday. Had a great hook & was at 100+ ft. when BAM, 122 stopped dead in her tracks. Unhooked & she drove fine. This is the second time this has happened on a good hook pull. 1st time I though it was the sled & hit the clutch.
I have a shifter lock, but I can push on the shifter & then I have 1/4 inch clearance between the shifter & lock. If ya'll remember, I installed a fine spline carrier & axles. All I did was change the ring gear & reinstall the carrier with the same shims that came out of the coarse spline carrier & axle.
What do you think is the problem?
Thanks
 
C.D. There's a few things going on most likely. The shift forks are probably spread a bit where the shift lever goes into them. Pop off the shifter cover, squeeze them together so the shifter just goes into them, then put a tack weld on them so they can't spread again.Put some wet rags around them and weld them in the tranny, no need to take them out. Next thing, your shifter lock pin should be TIGHT when it's in gear. One other thing to do that requires some disassembly is cut the detent grooves in the shift rails a bit deeper and use stiffer detent springs. Unless the gear teeth are really rounded off, the first two suggestions should take care of the problem. Oh, And if it's first gear your using, that shift fork is probably broken around the shift rail. The fine spline carrier and axles are not going to affect this either. Hope this long winded advise helps.

Rick
 
Thanks Rick.
I pull in second gear, Intend on installing 2 pulling gears this winter. Probably 20 & 21. My 12 horse still has plenty of power left at the end of a full pull with no bogging down. I want to go to 26' tires before I make any gear changes. Have about 6 pulls left this year. I repaired the shifter lock yeaterday.
 
Dulmes ,The President for the Lakeshore Pullers is Gordy Reckelberg , His phone number 920 845 9292. Our next pull is in Denmark Oct 16 at 1:00 (sorry for the short notice) , and the last pull for our season will be Racers Hall in Plymouth Oct. 30 at 1:00 .
 

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