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Archive through April 02, 2011
- Thread starter wbest
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
I know my Original did a great job on the leaves here.I did this in 2nd gear. I was a bit shocked the 7 could do such a good job as the blades were far from sharp. I do think with sharp blades and 1st gear it would cut some tall grass.
mfrade
Well-known member
" They both went on to bigger and better things when the registry started up, but after the registry died off, I dunno. "
Same here Charlie!
Same here Charlie!
I don't know why mowing in a faster gear is even discussed here. I never mower in third because I hate grass that was just pushed over and will be sticking straight up the next day. I hate backing up to cut such grass too. It seems to me it would be harder on everything as well. The deck won't exhaust the clippings that well, the engine has to run a little harder in higher gears especially running both tractor and deck. I cut mainly in first gear and slow speeds with a hydro as a rule. I get a lot of thinking done and I don't have any trains to catch. The best part is the grass is cut, and I mean "lookin' good" cut. Now if you're a commercial grass cutter that's a different story all together. Other than old timers pulling a small trailer around the neighborhood with a rider and push mower all I see there are "Zs" with 20 plus hp. Those monsters are designed for high speed grass cutting for a reason...time is money in the business. You also see them cutting the grass the standard 3 inches minimum and only being 4 inches to start. They never let it get to this foot high grass being discussed. Situations like that can cost the landscaper in obvious ways.
Last but certainly not least is the condition of the deck, mainly the blades. They need to be kept sharp at all times. The baffles are important for keeping the proper flow thus a cleaner deck. And technique....throw the darn grass out, not in when mowing. I've seen people trying to get the clippings in an automatic pile by throwing the grass towards the center. That just puts strain on everything more and more with every pass.
I guess I'm just old school in more ways than I realize.
Last but certainly not least is the condition of the deck, mainly the blades. They need to be kept sharp at all times. The baffles are important for keeping the proper flow thus a cleaner deck. And technique....throw the darn grass out, not in when mowing. I've seen people trying to get the clippings in an automatic pile by throwing the grass towards the center. That just puts strain on everything more and more with every pass.
I guess I'm just old school in more ways than I realize.
mfrade
Well-known member
I had a couple follow me home yesterday too! Part of the "ugly cub club" now!
mfrade
Well-known member
And a couple more.
Jerry B.
The 782 is but the Mag 20 ain't!
BTW, the email address in your profile is no good, fix it.
The 782 is but the Mag 20 ain't!
BTW, the email address in your profile is no good, fix it.
mfrade
Well-known member
That's the whole point Wayne. "Back in the Day", we had a member who thought otherwise and we would call him on it! 'Til one day it all came to a head and he stormed off never to return. So now it's a poke at fun every once in a while!
Wayne S.
Yea but when you throw to the center, it's easier to pick up the pile.
Yea but when you throw to the center, it's easier to pick up the pile.
I've probably spent more time on 7 HP CC's than ANYTHING else. Dad got the Original CC in '63, traded for the #70 in '65 and mowing was my job from about '64 on.
I borrowed Dad's #70 in '80 once to mow my small yard at our first house. By Jan '81 I owned my #72. "TECHNICALLY" it wasn't a 7 HP, had a 3 yr old K181 replacement engine in it, just like Dad installed in his 70 in about '73. By '85 it was getting tired already and I built up a 10 HP for it.
So I know what a 7 HP CC can and can't do.
Late last summer I was mowing some really lush thick grass at the very back of my yard, or was well over a foot tall, almost as high as the tops of the frt tires of the 982. Taking a full swath with the 50C I was just creeping, actually did a good job of mowing. After about 20 minutes I noticed the blue smoke from the mule drive belt blowing out the front!
WAYNE - I'm like you, take my time mowing so things look nice when I'm done. I alternate directions and patterns mowing every time too. Seems to mow much more even.
I borrowed Dad's #70 in '80 once to mow my small yard at our first house. By Jan '81 I owned my #72. "TECHNICALLY" it wasn't a 7 HP, had a 3 yr old K181 replacement engine in it, just like Dad installed in his 70 in about '73. By '85 it was getting tired already and I built up a 10 HP for it.
So I know what a 7 HP CC can and can't do.
Late last summer I was mowing some really lush thick grass at the very back of my yard, or was well over a foot tall, almost as high as the tops of the frt tires of the 982. Taking a full swath with the 50C I was just creeping, actually did a good job of mowing. After about 20 minutes I noticed the blue smoke from the mule drive belt blowing out the front!
WAYNE - I'm like you, take my time mowing so things look nice when I'm done. I alternate directions and patterns mowing every time too. Seems to mow much more even.
mfrade
Well-known member
Tom, I thought J.S. was a believer of full throttle anything to make sure the cooling fan speed was at max., course that was a while ago and I could be way off base!
Hi all I am new to this forum and really enjoy the set up. I have a 1650 and attached the tiller to the back of the tractor today. Fired up the till and everything was ok until I hit some solid soil and tiller had to work. Tiller started jumping a little and the belt on the gearbox to tiller popped off. I am using a 3/8" X 53" belt for tiller. manual calls for 13/32" X 53" belt but the 3/8 seems to sit fine on pulleys. I think the belt keeps popping off because the tiller pulley is a little crooked to the gearbox pulley. I thought maybe to loosen the tiller pulley and slide it over might do the trick. But it seems the pulley or whole tiller is crooked to the gearbox. I have included a pic to show how crooked the pulley is. any ideas on straightening tiller to gear box. I am using multi hole hitch pins to mount the lower half of unit to gearbox. Could those pins be to small allowing play. Thanks all and look forward to posting here a lot.
Charlie-
Can you see that mooses legs yet? You won't have to worry about cutting any grass yet for a while.
The only time I throw the discharge in is with leaves in the winter. It does make it easier when they end up in a pile.
I'll be sending you a lift rebuild soon just like the first one.
Have you done much lifting with that new bucket yet? It's so big I wonder what you use it for...snow? It looks good on the store page.
Can you see that mooses legs yet? You won't have to worry about cutting any grass yet for a while.
The only time I throw the discharge in is with leaves in the winter. It does make it easier when they end up in a pile.
I'll be sending you a lift rebuild soon just like the first one.
Have you done much lifting with that new bucket yet? It's so big I wonder what you use it for...snow? It looks good on the store page.
Hi again, everybody. I thought I'd seek some general information on three-point hitches and sleeve hitches for my 100 and 123. I don't have any immediate plans for ground engaging work, but I'd like to know a little more about these. Specifically:
1. Are they used for the same jobs?
2. Similarities and differences?
3. Advantages and disadvantages?
4. Were they made by IH or only by others?
5 What is Cat 0?
1. Are they used for the same jobs?
2. Similarities and differences?
3. Advantages and disadvantages?
4. Were they made by IH or only by others?
5 What is Cat 0?
glippert
Well-known member
Rich T -
Undersized pins that allow play in the bracket certainly can contribute to the problem, or make it worse, but the photo looks like some part or parts of the attachment(s) are bent. I'd start at the gearbox bracket and check that both sides are square (90 degrees/perpendicular). If that's OK, I'd remove the top mounting brackets/bars and set them together to see if they're symmetrical. Also, remove the bottom bracket to see if it's bent. (I say to remove them because I think it's a lot easier to see problems if the parts are laid out separately.) Finally, see if the mounting points on the tiller are straight. Pay attention to all the mounting holes, too. If they're wallowed out, you'll have problems.
Someone more knowledgeable than me will probably chime in, too. Let us know what you find (and include pictures, if possible). Good luck.
Undersized pins that allow play in the bracket certainly can contribute to the problem, or make it worse, but the photo looks like some part or parts of the attachment(s) are bent. I'd start at the gearbox bracket and check that both sides are square (90 degrees/perpendicular). If that's OK, I'd remove the top mounting brackets/bars and set them together to see if they're symmetrical. Also, remove the bottom bracket to see if it's bent. (I say to remove them because I think it's a lot easier to see problems if the parts are laid out separately.) Finally, see if the mounting points on the tiller are straight. Pay attention to all the mounting holes, too. If they're wallowed out, you'll have problems.
Someone more knowledgeable than me will probably chime in, too. Let us know what you find (and include pictures, if possible). Good luck.
jchamberlin
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2010
- Messages
- 1,842
- Location
- Farmville, North Carolina
- displayname
- Jeremiah Chamberlin
My 782 is finally getting a little less "confuguliated."
Areated the lawn today, been wanting to do it for at least five years now!
glippert
Well-known member
Steve S -
Great questions - I had the same ones for a long time before I finally got it all sorted out. And terminology is important to get answers when you have a question. I'll try to help:
First, 3-point refers to the attachment/mounting points on the tractor. Sleeve hitch is a type of hitch on implements/attachments (most common, Brinly).
A Cat 0 is a 3-point hitch, most often found on larger, super garden tractors, but also available from Xtreme Motorworks (a sponsor above) and other sellers. Here's a picture of a Cat 0 from the Xtreme Motorworks website (thanks, Aaron - I hope you don't mind!).
Any implement with a Cat O type hitch will work with this.
An IH 3-Point hitch looks like this (the "3 points" are circled in blue:
Although some implements may mount directly to this 3 Point, the most commonly used, Brinly-type attachments use a Sleeve Hitch, so you need a sleeve hitch adapter to use them with the IH 3 Point.
Here's a picture of a sleeve hitch adapter mounted to an IH 3 point:
The biggest advantages of a Cat 0 are that they can apply downward pressure, and they look really cool!
The IH 3 Point with a sleeve hitch adapter is less expensive and sleeve-hitch implements are generally easier to find (and less expensive).
That's my $.02 worth - I hope it helps. I'm sure others will share their thoughts.
Great questions - I had the same ones for a long time before I finally got it all sorted out. And terminology is important to get answers when you have a question. I'll try to help:
First, 3-point refers to the attachment/mounting points on the tractor. Sleeve hitch is a type of hitch on implements/attachments (most common, Brinly).
A Cat 0 is a 3-point hitch, most often found on larger, super garden tractors, but also available from Xtreme Motorworks (a sponsor above) and other sellers. Here's a picture of a Cat 0 from the Xtreme Motorworks website (thanks, Aaron - I hope you don't mind!).
Any implement with a Cat O type hitch will work with this.
An IH 3-Point hitch looks like this (the "3 points" are circled in blue:
Although some implements may mount directly to this 3 Point, the most commonly used, Brinly-type attachments use a Sleeve Hitch, so you need a sleeve hitch adapter to use them with the IH 3 Point.
Here's a picture of a sleeve hitch adapter mounted to an IH 3 point:
The biggest advantages of a Cat 0 are that they can apply downward pressure, and they look really cool!
The IH 3 Point with a sleeve hitch adapter is less expensive and sleeve-hitch implements are generally easier to find (and less expensive).
That's my $.02 worth - I hope it helps. I'm sure others will share their thoughts.
glippert
Well-known member
Steve S -
I almost forgot: Implements (like Brinly) with sleeve hitch connect to the sleeve hitch adapter with this "sleeve hitch" (photo from Digger's post a few days ago, and the part is available from Cub Cadet Specialties, another sponsor above!):
I almost forgot: Implements (like Brinly) with sleeve hitch connect to the sleeve hitch adapter with this "sleeve hitch" (photo from Digger's post a few days ago, and the part is available from Cub Cadet Specialties, another sponsor above!):
Wayne S.
Yesterday morning I would have said no!
But we're gettin closer now. That is if this snow that's headed this way really hits. I'm hoping for RAIN!
That loader or the bucket have not seen dirt or snow yet.
I did start it a couple times over the winter though, LOL
Yesterday morning I would have said no!
But we're gettin closer now. That is if this snow that's headed this way really hits. I'm hoping for RAIN!
That loader or the bucket have not seen dirt or snow yet.
I did start it a couple times over the winter though, LOL
