782 Hydrostatic leak, Cork Seal?!

[kim robinson]

I have a leak and I think it is. Owing from where everyone says the cork seal is. I'll post some pics. I read one CC member say the job can be done without removing the tranny/rear axle. Ae they attached and if removed do they have to come out together?

Some on advice as to how difficult the job is is much appreciated. I'm fairly mechanically inclined

Thanks a bunch in advance.

 

[digger]

I have a leak and I think it is. Owing from where everyone says the cork seal is. I'll post some pics. I read one CC member say the job can be done without removing the tranny/rear axle. Ae they attached and if removed do they have to come out together?

Some on advice as to how difficult the job is is much appreciated. I'm fairly mechanically inclined

Thanks a bunch in advance.

Remove the tunnel cover and you'll probably see where it's leaking.

 

[kim robinson]

Remove the tunnel cover and you'll probably see where it's leaking.

Thank you. I thought I posted numerous pics. I guess I screwed that up. I have removed the tunnel cover. There was a lot of crud i cleaned up, bur still need to power wash. It is definitely not coming from the top where the two large caps are.

 

[kim robinson]

Here's more pics

 

[kim robinson]

782 pics

 

[dschwandt]

Those are the relief valves for the hydro.
Power wash the snot out of it and let dry.
Then powder the whole area where you may think the leak is w/talcum powder and wait.
The leak will leave a trail in the powder and trace right back to where the leak is.

 

[rrschmitt]

You can remove the hydro pump without taking the rearend out the back of the frame, but you need to get things cleaned up really good well around hydro pump and transmission before doing that. Based on the amount of oily dirt caked on top and the sides, your hydro relief valves are definitely leaking (squirting) oil out of the small holes in the top. After the o-rings inside get so old inside the relief valves, they start burping out a squirt of oil each time you start the engine. You can get them repaired by taking them out and sending them to Home Lots cheaper than putting in new hydro valve assemblies. Once you get things cleaned up it's a good idea to fire it up and look for other leaks. The trunnion seals sometimes leak which will require disassembly of the pump which is detailed in the Service Manual

Taking the hydro pump out and replacing the cork gasket while you are into it would also be advisable at the same time along with fresh HyTran and a new Hydrostatic Oil Filter from the above sponsors or your local CaseIH or Cub Cadet dealer.

Here's some links to FAQ's you will need to take on the hydro leaks etc.

27. How much do I torque the bolts on the rear cover plate?

33a. How do I Troubleshoot a leak in my Hydro? Part 1

33b. How do I Troubleshoot a leak in my Hydro? Part 2

34. What transmission and engine fluids does my pre 1981 Cub use?

45. How do I adjust my hydro to find neutral again?

46. How do remove the driveshaft in a Quietline?

65. How do I check the fluid level for my transmission?

83. What is an acceptable Hydro Filter replacement?

94. How do I change my Hydro Pump Gasket ?

 

[bkattner]

I read #94, what is everyone's consensus- use the anaerobic sealer or no? I haven't done a split yet but my 782 does need it done.

 

[mgonitzke]

I used permatex aviation gasket sealer on mine (and all other paper gaskets). No leaks.

 

[bkattner]

I used permatex aviation gasket sealer on mine (and all other paper gaskets). No leaks.

That's the small bottle, brown stuff that you brush on? I've used that elsewhere on other projects.

 

[mgonitzke]

Yes, it is.