Tom, that screw is used to kind of, fine tune, the idle. Might not be necessary but it sure can't hurt to have one in there... The classifieds or the forum sponsor's would good sources.
-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Archive through June 06, 2011
- Thread starter pburkle
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
mgwin
Well-known member
Tom,
If you have enough slack, you might want to run the spark plug wire around the outside of the fuel line instead of under it to reduce any rubbing between the two. Just my two cents.
If you have enough slack, you might want to run the spark plug wire around the outside of the fuel line instead of under it to reduce any rubbing between the two. Just my two cents.
kraig,
I have used your method and used a punch to loosen up the bearing. It has worked and moved the whole pulley and bearing about 1/2 inch off of the crank, I have turned and pulled on it on, but it still will not free up, I even sprayed some penetrating lube into and on the crank and punch hole. Does this also remove the pto clutch basket with the pulley on it, my pulley i just noticed is bent like all i don't know what, good thing i have an extra. What else can i possibly do??
Also anyone know where a good place or a good type of paint is that i can use to redo this cub cadet?
I have used your method and used a punch to loosen up the bearing. It has worked and moved the whole pulley and bearing about 1/2 inch off of the crank, I have turned and pulled on it on, but it still will not free up, I even sprayed some penetrating lube into and on the crank and punch hole. Does this also remove the pto clutch basket with the pulley on it, my pulley i just noticed is bent like all i don't know what, good thing i have an extra. What else can i possibly do??
Also anyone know where a good place or a good type of paint is that i can use to redo this cub cadet?
Thanks Kraig! After the tractor has been running for @ 45min it will start misfiring & coughing. This is happening on a slightly sloped part of my yard where the tractor has to make a lot of corners and turns. The engine runs fine at first starts fine and does not smoke but degrades quickly. This really sucks as I really like the 1650 a lot! The local John Deere dealer has offered me more than I paid for it already but the only comparable model they have is the x300 which is $3,000 and even given that I don't see the JD lasting me 30 years. The IH Cub has real style and is built to last.(Was from a time when this quality was expected from a product made in the USA) I am really comfortable on the machine but if it won't run...
jfrederick
Member
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2007
- Messages
- 18
- displayname
- Justin Frederick
Scott,
Just read your post. Well I was outside all night in the wonderful 100+ degree heat...well my shop was not too bad. Anyhow I now have the 1450 setup almost done. I did go with the one rag joint in front & in back so I hope it holds up nice. I am taking the driveshaft I cut to length to work tomorrow and going to machine the holes for the coil roll pins.
I think it will work nice to have that 1450 front driveshaft flange & the rear 1450 coupler arm & bushing. After mocking it up and spinning that driveshaft, it is very very straight...not a bit of wobble. Kind of nice!
Also the bolts I used in the coupler arms and rag joints are 10mm and they have a much nicer fit than the original bolts, this in my mind help keeps everything in line a bit better.
Thanks again to everyones input and advice, I really appreciate it!
Just read your post. Well I was outside all night in the wonderful 100+ degree heat...well my shop was not too bad. Anyhow I now have the 1450 setup almost done. I did go with the one rag joint in front & in back so I hope it holds up nice. I am taking the driveshaft I cut to length to work tomorrow and going to machine the holes for the coil roll pins.
I think it will work nice to have that 1450 front driveshaft flange & the rear 1450 coupler arm & bushing. After mocking it up and spinning that driveshaft, it is very very straight...not a bit of wobble. Kind of nice!
Also the bolts I used in the coupler arms and rag joints are 10mm and they have a much nicer fit than the original bolts, this in my mind help keeps everything in line a bit better.
Thanks again to everyones input and advice, I really appreciate it!
Marty,
I was looking at the fuel line and I can see where the cable used to go from the rub mark. I have just enough to go around nicely and I may put a small piece of rubber hose over the fuel line to keep it from abrading my shinny new yellow wire and possibly shorting out the ignition.
Thanks for the input!
tom
I was looking at the fuel line and I can see where the cable used to go from the rub mark. I have just enough to go around nicely and I may put a small piece of rubber hose over the fuel line to keep it from abrading my shinny new yellow wire and possibly shorting out the ignition.
Thanks for the input!
tom
jfrederick
Member
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2007
- Messages
- 18
- displayname
- Justin Frederick
Driving the coil roll pin into hydro for the coupler....
Just thought of this too, I hope I have not hurt anything by driving that coiled roll pin into the hydro drive as I did not support it from below because there is not much working room.
When you guys do this, do you support the hydro shaft/coupler arm or just drive it in slow? I used a hammer & punch to drive the coil pin into the coupler arm and hydro. I am just hoping I did not hurt anything such as the hydro shaft or any internal bearings now that I am thinking of it...
Just thought of this too, I hope I have not hurt anything by driving that coiled roll pin into the hydro drive as I did not support it from below because there is not much working room.
When you guys do this, do you support the hydro shaft/coupler arm or just drive it in slow? I used a hammer & punch to drive the coil pin into the coupler arm and hydro. I am just hoping I did not hurt anything such as the hydro shaft or any internal bearings now that I am thinking of it...
Fred, the first things that comes to mind are the vent in the fuel tank might be plugged, try loosening the cap and see if it works better. If that fixes it the vent is plugged and needs to be cleaned. If that has no effect, replace the condenser. My 125 would act that way and it turned out to be the condenser. The gas cap is the first thing to try as it's a no cost fix if it is the problem. Under edit: One other thought, I'm not sure what the 1650 uses for a fuel filter (all my Cubs are older and use a glass sediment bowl) but it would be a good idea to replace the fuel filter if it's a replaceable type or clean it if it's a serviceable type. Also if it is a replaceable type make sure it's the type that is OK for use in a gravity feed system, as some replaceable filters are only for use in systems that have a fuel pump. Any chance it was replaced at one point with the wrong type?
Brandon, when you say; "It has worked and moved the whole pulley and bearing about 1/2 inch off of the crank" what pulley are you referring to? The PTO basket and pulley is held on with separate set screws and is a separate part from the bearing. I assume you perhaps mis-wrote that??
In any case, use some emery cloth and clean up the crank area behind the bearing then tap the bearing back onto the crank beyond where it originally was. Then clean up the end of the crank with emery cloth then try to pull the bearing off. Don't try to remove a bunch of material from the crank, the idea is to clean it not make it smaller. Also check the end of the crank for any sign of a burr or mushroomed condition that might be catching on the bearing. If there is a burr, the emery cloth or a file can be used to remove it. Again no need to get carried away removing material. Any chance you have a photo of it so we can better see what you are dealing with?
Brandon, I just sent an email with some info for you. For those that may be following and might have some suggestions for Brandon, here are Brandon's photos.
Here was my email reply to Brandon: OK. Looks like the original stock position of the bearing. When you wrote that you had it 1/2" off did you mean it was off of the crank by a 1/2", or in other words the end of the crank was recessed 1/2" into the bearing? Were these photos taken before you moved the bearing? They can be stubborn to get off. If you have access to a wheel puller or 3 jaw puller it should come off without too much trouble. Without one you may have to work it on and off until it loosens up enough to come off. I suspect t hat the end of the crank may have a burr or some rust that is hanging it up and preventing it from coming all the way off. If you do not have access to a puller, I would tap it back on and then clean up the end of the crank. I'll post the photos for more to see in case someone is following this and might have other suggestions.
Here was my email reply to Brandon: OK. Looks like the original stock position of the bearing. When you wrote that you had it 1/2" off did you mean it was off of the crank by a 1/2", or in other words the end of the crank was recessed 1/2" into the bearing? Were these photos taken before you moved the bearing? They can be stubborn to get off. If you have access to a wheel puller or 3 jaw puller it should come off without too much trouble. Without one you may have to work it on and off until it loosens up enough to come off. I suspect t hat the end of the crank may have a burr or some rust that is hanging it up and preventing it from coming all the way off. If you do not have access to a puller, I would tap it back on and then clean up the end of the crank. I'll post the photos for more to see in case someone is following this and might have other suggestions.
Kraig, I see you have my pictures posted. I took the picture before it was moved of the crank by 1/2". When I say that I mean the pulley that runs the drive system behind the PTO basket is off 1/2" would you if you can see it on this picture point out where the punch was to go so I know I hit it in the right place. I also I've been spraying penetrating spray to help loosen it up, but no such luck yet. Thanks Kraig
Brandon, the bearing is a separate part from the pulley/PTO basket. The pulley/PTO basket does not have a locking collar, just two set screws and a square key. The pulley/PTO basket would only need to be removed if it is damaged, if you were to rebuild the engine or if you wanted to paint it.
Also, did you check out the link that Paul F. posted for you on Monday? It's just down this page a little bit.
Also, did you check out the link that Paul F. posted for you on Monday? It's just down this page a little bit.
Brandon, neither of your photos show the hole in the locking collar that you would use a punch in to rotate it. Just so you know what the locking collar is I noted it in one of your photos.
Brandon, once the locking collar is loose, the locking collar should be very free to move. However, the bearing will still be snug on the crank.
Ya know, some things should NOT be done to a Cub!
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2006
- Messages
- 2,912
- displayname
- Allen Schumacher
OK, where's the tractor races that the "V-CUB" runs at? Should be cool to watch!..
...<font size="-2">(Does he get free oil for that ad?!)</font>
