Archive through June 06, 2011

[pburkle]

I have a 1979 1650 Cub Cadet that is leaking hydro fluid from the gasket that mounts the aluminum hydro pump to the cast iron rear end differential housing. I am told this is quite common and that the gasket is made out of a cork material ? Hopefully the replacement gaskets are made out of something better than this ? Anyway, this looks to be a very complicated job to replace this gasket ! ? I would appreciate any help anyone out there can give me including the steps to take to get this apart and put back together and the recommended parts to replace, if any, besides, of course, the gasket that is leaking ! ? Also, I just changed and filled the rear end with new hydro fluid before this leak was discovered so I am wondering if I can some how get by without having to drain all of the new hydro fluid out ? Please answer here on the forum or by sending me a personal email at [email protected] Any help or advice with this will be extremely appreciated !!!! ;-) Thanks !!!!

Paul

 

[thoffman]

Have a Quiet line that doesn't charge. Looking at the "Blue Ribbon Service Manual" and it doesn't tell me squat. Anything out there or one here better?

 

[cmiracle]

I've finally been able to start on my 1200's isomounts. The only obviously shot one is the right front, it's bottom's as flat as a pancake, and the top is also squashed more than the other mounts. Both snubbers are touching the frame, too. I was reading in the Machine Shop about it and saw David Kirk's fix for the squashed bottom mounts- the 30# springs. Has anyone tried this? I'll also try the steel-bar cradle fix- wish I could weld it myself but our HS won't let me take a welding course until my sophmore year.

 

[jfrederick]

149 driveshaft pin snap problem solve...I think...I hope!

So I tore into the 149 tonight further, inspecting everything and looking at everything. My dad stopped over tonight to also have a look. While we were talking he said on his 149 he has to thread the bolts into his rear rag joint at the hydro and he tightens them very snug.

That made me think....so I picked up my drive shaft, put a bolt through it, there is a LOT of slop in the holes of the driveshaft, it also look like it has tapered holes in the driveshaft too (this is a new shaft too) so I measured each side of the hole, front and back..sure enough they are tapered. The bolts are loose in the drive shaft, and go through the rag joint easy, this would make it not be centered.

While looking at the rag joint where the driveshaft meets it I noticed it was off a bit as it left an indentaion in the rag joint...so I hooked it up to match that indentation, each side of the drive shaft is off 1/16" from the rag joint and the driveshaft holes are NOT concentric with the rag joint. The holes are the same at the hydro coupling...they are not concentric.

So I believe this made the driveshaft off center from the engine & hydro which in turn snapped pins & wore my coupler beyond use. The end of the driveshaft where the pin goes through is also bad and is sloppy in the coupler.

Solution: New driveshaft, I will machine new holes in the driveshaft to match the rag joint, I will put in bolts that have very little clearance in the driveshaft and thread them through the rag joint. I will also do the same for the hydro coupler. Then install everything, turn over the engine and watch for play, possibly using a magnetic base (to the frame) dial indicator on the driveshaft to see how tru it really is. However if it is not noticeable play, I would assume it is good.

I hope this works, I hope this is the solution to the problem. I double checked the engine placement, there is no play. I checked rear end placement, there is also no play.

 

[mgonitzke]

Justin F.-

'Very snug' is probably too much. You are supposed to use locknuts and tighten them only enough to very slightly deform the rag joint. Any more and it won't last long.

 

[jfrederick]

Paul Henry.....

I had this same exact problem on my 149 Cub last year. I bought the cork gasket (think it was cork?? Maybe a newer better material..I forget) anyhow if your 1650 is anything like my 149, and I think it kind of is, here is what I did...this was my first time too!!

One thing I do sometimes on new stuff I have never torn apart, don't be afraid to take pictures. Also us ziplock baggies to put in bolts/fasteners and mark the bags..use a bunch if need be to help you remember where they go.

I removed the seat from the tractor. Disconnected and removed the battery, removed voltage regulator. Unhooked the tail lights. Removed the black foot rests from running boards. Removed all bolts holding on the fenders/running boards, the lifted that assembly off.

This exposed the rear end. At this point remove your driveshaft. Remove your hydraulic lines from the hydro (I taped the holes shut to keep anything from getting in the hydro, I capped the lines also). Get yourself a floor jack now to put under the rear end, put jack stands under the frame (your tractor will tip because of the front axle, a jack on each side of the frame would be good), try not to jack up the tractor if possible. There are a couple bolts in the axle housing you have to remove that are bolted to the frame, and a bolt on each side of the frame that hook to other brackets on the rear end.

Once your rear end is loose, start to work it out using your floor jack, keep the jack low so the tires are still somewhat contacting the floor, once you roll it out far enough, let the floor jack down, tip the hydro straight up in the air, put your floor jack under the housing cover and lightly put some pressure on it to keep it stable.

Now stabalize your rear end so you can wrench on it. I forget if you have to remove anything from the rear end first before taking off the pump...but on my 149 I scrubbed that rear end clean and then took the pump off, removed the old gasket, used brake cleaner on a shop rag, made sure the mating surfaces were clean. I think one side of the cork was sticky after you removed the film...there is also an alignment pin for that gasket. I do not remember what side I put the sticky side on...but after I installed it...I basically put it back together the way I took it apart.

Good luck to you, you can get it! I know it looks like a huge mess...and a lot of stuff to remember, but it is not too bad once you get it apart. I did this on mine in probably 3-4 hours I think one night and had it driving that night too.

 

[jfrederick]

Matt,

I will keep that in mind when I put it together! Right now mine just had plain washers, coarse thread bolts & non locking nuts....

Thanks for that tip!!

 

[pfunk]

Brandon W. here's some pictures to go along with Kraig's description.

 

[dfrisk]

MATT G. - Congratulations!

PAUL Burkle - If you look up above, just below all the colorful boxes that are links to sponsor sites you'll find "Frequently Asked Questions" and I know a former frequent poster, Gerry Ide posted a real nice write-up about the infamous cork gasket replacement. Lots of pictures, advice, etc. About the ONLY way Gerry could have made it easier would be if HE came into your shop and did it for you! Not sure which FAQ it is but look at them all.

And if you get a new MTD/CC gasket I think Gerry said they are made from synthetic rubber impregnated cork. A MUCH much better material than straight cork. I've personally NEVER seen a cork gasket that DIDN'T fail. I think it was Richard Christensen who made a couple gaskets out of straight Neoprene and he's still doing extended durability testing, think he's over 5-6 years now.

Far as saving your fresh hytran & filter, maybe you could raise the whole front end of the tractor up so it's almost sitting on it's back pointing straight up. It's only seven quarts of Hy-Tran, plus changing it allows any dirt or grit that may get into the rearend to be flushed out. I always spray the whole rearend with GUNK foaming degreaser in a spray can(use the whole can!) and clean it off with a nozzle on a garden hose, I DO NOT recommend a pressure washer, WAY too much pressure. I then blow it off with compressed air and start removing the hydro unit.

 

[jfrederick]

Dennis,

So you are saying you use that Gunk degreaser and then spray it all out with water? Interesting. Would you use any brake/carb cleaner to help clean it out also? I never cleaned mine up like that....I just dumped out old oil and put in fresh.

I notice mine is starting to leak again, very small drops....so I need to dig into it again.

I will use your method of cleaning it if I have to tear it out again.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Justin, I believe Denny is referring to the OUTSIDE of the hydro/rearend.

 

[jfrederick]

Thank goodness!! I read it wrong...helps to read twice sometimes!

Just looked at a 1450 drive setup, I think this would work nice on my 149. I have seen others using a double rag joint in the front, is this a good idea? Or will one rag joint in front & back work fine?

I was thinking of using stock 149 drive stuff....but I think I want to upgrade it.

 

[dfrisk]

JUSTIN - KRAIG knows me WAY too well. He's correct, I spray & clean the outside of the hydro & rearend before any disassembly is done. Hydro's and DIRT don't mix. Plus with the Hy-Tran leaking they're dirt magnets!

I do wipe the inside of the rearend with clean shop towels and Brake-Kleen before I install the filter, rear cover and fill with fresh Hy-Tran.

And on wide frames I pull the fenders and don't remove the whole rearend. It saves the R&R of the rearend and seems to give enough room to remove & install the hydro unit.

 

[stanner]

Justin,

I am planning on the 1450 double rag joint upgrade on my 149... Murphy's law dictates that the factory drive pin will let loose just when you need it most or while Green and Yella folks are watching... I got a setup out of a local tractor graveyard, and look forward to not dealing with it anymore...

 

[fboyce]

I am having an issue with my recently purchased 1650 Cub is this the proper place to ask about it?

 

[kmcconaughey]

Fred, WELCOME!

Yes, you are in the correct forum area, ask away.

 

[teroberts]

Would someone please look at this photo and tell me if I have the linkage attached correctly on my 105 carb.
Thanks.
tom

 

[kmcconaughey]

Tom, looks OK except you're missing the throttle stop screw (and spring).

 

[sashiery]

Tom, the Kohler charging routine is the same regardless of tractor manufacturer. At 3600 rpm, you should have more than 28 volts AC across the two outside lugs on the voltage regulator. If not, the stator is bad or a wire is broken under the flywheel. At 3600 rpm, if you have the 28+ volts AC across the outside lugs, change the multimeter setting to DC. If you ground the negative probe to the frame and put the positive probe on the middle voltage regulator lug you should find 13.5 volts DC +/-. If you have the proper DC volts, then check the ignition switch since it hooks the voltage regulator to the battery. First part of checking the ignition switch would be wiggling the wires in the back of the plug that hooks the wiring harness to the ignition switch.

 

[teroberts]

Kraig,
Thanks. Do I need the throttle stop screw and spring? I don't think there was one present as I always take such things apart in a 9 by 13 baking pan and there were no parts left over.
If I do need one where might I find one?