Hi, i have an early 1970's 782 Cub Cadet, I recently tuned it up and before that it only ran with the choke all the way on, after tuning it up and adjusting the carb., it ran with the choke off, unfortunately that only lasted a few days. The fuel filter and fuel pump are good, it seems as though the carb. keeps getting out of adjustment? Any help is appreciated.
-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Runs only on full choke
- Thread starter jglick
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
jchamberlin
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2010
- Messages
- 1,842
- Location
- Farmville, North Carolina
- displayname
- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Jeff, if you have a 782, it wasn't made in the 1970's; the production run began in 1980 with International Harvester and continued under the independent Cub Cadet Corporation (entirely owned by MTD). Check out the Cub History on the Extreme Motorworks website above (one of this forum's sponsors), its a great resource: I refer to it constantly. I have a 782 built in 1982. You may want to post in the main forum, they can tell you more about your machine.
I can sympathize with your carburetor issues. I couldn't keep mine in adjustment until I replaced the governor spring. But I doubt that's your problem. If you have to choke it to run, something is not right; either the mixture is too lean, the ignition is too weak (or timing is off), or you're losing compression (mechanical issues). You may know all ready know these things, I don't have an answer for you.
Do you know if the float is good and adjusted properly?
I can sympathize with your carburetor issues. I couldn't keep mine in adjustment until I replaced the governor spring. But I doubt that's your problem. If you have to choke it to run, something is not right; either the mixture is too lean, the ignition is too weak (or timing is off), or you're losing compression (mechanical issues). You may know all ready know these things, I don't have an answer for you.
Do you know if the float is good and adjusted properly?
jchamberlin
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2010
- Messages
- 1,842
- Location
- Farmville, North Carolina
- displayname
- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Jeff, No, I'm not sure if the float is the issue, I just know that a bad or mis-adjusted float can cause carburetors to act strangely and that float replacement is often overlooked. I didn't know a float could be a problem until someone told me. If it is the black plastic type, I would replace it just because. If it is a copper or hollow one, I would test it in gasoline to see that it wasn't leaking. And whatever kind it is, I would make sure that it was adjusted to manufacturer's specifications. If your rebuild kit doesn't have instructions, there are manuals available in the Manuals section off the main forum page. Adjusting or replacing the float is something you can do without removing the carburetor from the engine.
However, I can't help feeling that your problem could be mechanical. If an intake or exhaust valve is sticking, I'm wondering if that isn't the cause of your problem. Or perhaps one of the head gaskets is leaking.
Have you pulled both spark plugs and compared them? If one of them "reads" significantly different from the other, that would indicate a mechanical problem in one cylinder, not a system-wide fuel problem.
Another way to verify the condition of the motor is to check the compression of the cylinders. They should be within 10 lbs of each other. You might want to check them cold, and then check them again when they're hot.
What's driving me nuts is that I remember having to choke my machine to get it to run at one time, but I can't remember what the problem turned out to be. For that engine, I remember that I didn't have my float adjusted right for a long time, and I remember having a problem with sticking valves, but I can't remember at what point I had to run with the choke on.
I would still start with the float. I could always tell when the valves stuck because the motor turned over faster but would never start until the engine had cooled down for at least 30 minutes. Oh, I remember how frustrating it was.
Anyway, good luck. I don't feel that I've been much help to you.
Again, please post your serial number on the main page and someone will help you identify the year your machine was made and help you more than I can.
However, I can't help feeling that your problem could be mechanical. If an intake or exhaust valve is sticking, I'm wondering if that isn't the cause of your problem. Or perhaps one of the head gaskets is leaking.
Have you pulled both spark plugs and compared them? If one of them "reads" significantly different from the other, that would indicate a mechanical problem in one cylinder, not a system-wide fuel problem.
Another way to verify the condition of the motor is to check the compression of the cylinders. They should be within 10 lbs of each other. You might want to check them cold, and then check them again when they're hot.
What's driving me nuts is that I remember having to choke my machine to get it to run at one time, but I can't remember what the problem turned out to be. For that engine, I remember that I didn't have my float adjusted right for a long time, and I remember having a problem with sticking valves, but I can't remember at what point I had to run with the choke on.
I would still start with the float. I could always tell when the valves stuck because the motor turned over faster but would never start until the engine had cooled down for at least 30 minutes. Oh, I remember how frustrating it was.
Anyway, good luck. I don't feel that I've been much help to you.
Again, please post your serial number on the main page and someone will help you identify the year your machine was made and help you more than I can.
Jeff; Sounds like you may have a bad carb gasket(air leak) or trash getting through your fuel filter. Also i had to change a fuel line on a friends o t mower that the rubber line wes breaking up inside and plugging the fuel pump and filter. I use a spray bottle and spray water around a carb to check for a air leak.
Maybee you could get a better answer to your question on the main forum.
Maybee you could get a better answer to your question on the main forum.
Jeff-
I'd be willing to bet you have a walbro carb (often referred to as POS walbro). I'm with Luther and think by having to run the choke you simply have a blockage. It doesn't take but a knat hair to make walbros almost worthless in some cases. It's harder to access some areas needing cleaned and there are less adjustments you can do.
You might want to try just spraying some good ole carb cleaner at wot. It might help pull/blow the crap out although I've not had the best of luck doing this. I've found it best to just do another carb cleaning. If you put a new "kit" in it just take it apart again and clean/blow out everything you can.
I'd be willing to bet you have a walbro carb (often referred to as POS walbro). I'm with Luther and think by having to run the choke you simply have a blockage. It doesn't take but a knat hair to make walbros almost worthless in some cases. It's harder to access some areas needing cleaned and there are less adjustments you can do.
You might want to try just spraying some good ole carb cleaner at wot. It might help pull/blow the crap out although I've not had the best of luck doing this. I've found it best to just do another carb cleaning. If you put a new "kit" in it just take it apart again and clean/blow out everything you can.
Jeff if the tractor sits much, the fuel can go bad and alot faster than you think. If the compression and spark plugs look good you can most likely fix your issue with a carb overhaul. I can't tell you how many lawn mowers I've had to overhaul carbs on. Fuel today does not store well, when it breaks down it leaves alot of deposits behind that plug the small passage ways. A good carb cleaner in a dunk bucket should fix you up. If you have ethanol fuel in your area the alcohol draws water and really raises heck with things too.
