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still gt pulling with my turbo diesel 1782
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Yupper,a two stage turbo setup of course. I like boost,lots of boost! Of course it helps to have a spare engine sitting here then. I will keep ya posted,of course it may be more of a spring project.
Am looking for the "when" to replace a rod. this one has a shine worn on about 1/4 of the way around but the wear is not measurable. Would like to get a few years out of it but this is a light rebuild if it is possable.
JERRY - You don't say what model Kohler Your working on but with the dubious reputation those diecast rods have in Kohlers I'd replace the rod. Depends on how many hours & what kind of use the engine has seen and what Your planning on doing with the engine. If the engine isn't in bad shape and Your just touching up the valves and replacing rings in an engine that hasn't had a LOT of hard use and don't plan on running it hard the old rod should still be usable. If the piston is worn, and block is being bored for an over-size piston I'd replace the rod. The alloy the rod is made from does not have a great fatigue strength and a new rod is cheap insurance against being in the market for a rebuildable block in the near future. About half the time the rod puts a non-repairable hole in the side of the block when it breaks. Depends on the RPM the engine is running when the rod lets go. Buddy of Mine had a rod break in a K-241 in a 107 years ago just idling out of the garage to mow. New rod installed, scuffed the glaze off the bore and reused the piston & rings. And traded for a Jon Deare without ever running the engine in the 107. He was punished for His actions however.... He traded for a brand new 317 Deare with the KT-17 Series 1 Kohler. The 107 was a REAL nice tractor too. Just had fresh paint, 42" deck.. Still too new to be torn up.
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dvogt
Guest
Of all the parts in a Kohler the rod letting go is usually the most costly . you know the saying "You can pay me now or You can pay me latter"
This is in my "new"149. The 14 horse was partilly seized And this will be a used rod from another cubber. The crank serface has a couple of just polished bright spots. Doesn't seem out of line. Would like to get a few years service out of it. Cannot find enough wear in the bore to do anything but hone it for new rings. The crank should be fine after removing a bit of the old rod.
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dvogt
Guest
Jerry if you brought that engine to my shop & asked me to put it together the way you want I would not even let you unload it. if you are looking for someone to say its OK to do what you want to do I don't think this is the place to find that.did you even pit a mic on the crank? generally they are worn out of round or undersize anyway so putting a used rod on a worn journal is not a good thing. you can do what ever you want to do but thats my opinion. and I'm sticking to it.
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dvogt
Guest
besides the 14 hp blocks are not that readily available like the 10s are
Want to start getting parts together to build a Stock/Altered motor.Have some questions.I am thinking of starting with a 301 block just because I have one.Should I start with something else?Bigger?
I was thinking Stock Crank,Aluminum Rod and Piston,reground Stock Cam,good aftermarket valve train.Am I on the right track?
I was thinking Stock Crank,Aluminum Rod and Piston,reground Stock Cam,good aftermarket valve train.Am I on the right track?
kweimann
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- Kenny Weimann
Jerry,
I agree with Don. I know you are on a budget from my conversations with you and Harry but don't skimp on critical parts like a crank and rod unless you want a 100 pound lawn ornament. I've rejected cranks that were .0002 under max wear limit because I don't ever want a customer or friend coming back saying my work is sub-standard. Take the time and money now and do it right. It will give you a good piece of mind every time you start that engine up. My .02 Kenny
I agree with Don. I know you are on a budget from my conversations with you and Harry but don't skimp on critical parts like a crank and rod unless you want a 100 pound lawn ornament. I've rejected cranks that were .0002 under max wear limit because I don't ever want a customer or friend coming back saying my work is sub-standard. Take the time and money now and do it right. It will give you a good piece of mind every time you start that engine up. My .02 Kenny
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tvorhees
Guest
John , If i was you , I would start with 16horse. Theres alot more places to pull a 16.
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dvogt
Guest
John , I agree with Todd . the 16 hp SA class is pretty popular in most areas. 12 hp SA's are around in some areas. you may want to check the rules with the club you plan to pull with to see what they have for class's. other things to consider . most all of the strong runners need steel cranks,cams and timing gears. if you get it to turn hard the stock cams break , the teeth come off the stock cam gear & the cranks have a nasty habit of becoming 2 piece. as for rod & pistons . all of the parts manufactuers (vogol's,lacota, super cub) have a rod & piston package available for the 30 OS SA motors. My brother Jim has dyno tuned a couple 16 hp NQS SA engines now and it looks like you need 40 or better.
Got my new toy in today. My Van Norman boring bar finally got here from San Jose. Trucking company stuck it in the corner and forgot to call to have it picked up.
Now have to sheck the run-out and slop. First glance showns that it is very tight. Most all the tools with it. Have enough tooling to do my Kohlers and up.
I will probably get distracted for a while checking it out.
Will try it on some junk blocks first to check the accuracy.
Don V:
Who could I go to to have a steel head made. Also, has anybody ever tried to "O" ring a block. I believe it would take a CNC mill to do it right. You know me, I have to mess with the Nitro and want to keep head gaskets in place.
Just thinking out loud right now while I get all the ingredients together.
Are dual plugs allowed in the 30 Cub Outlaws?
Does anybody made a setup to use a crank trigger to control the ignition. Would need to underdrive the flying crank magnet 50%. I talked to Joe Ponder at MSD and right now the items don't seem to be available. Also, mag(ignition) lead, is it around 50 degrees plus like our fuel cars? Course it is retarded with timers down track. Air timers are the trick. Leaning toward injected so I can control the fuel delivery with a pill and barrel valve and pressure reglator.
I know that there are not too many places to pull but I just gotta sniff the juice. Once it gets in your blood, you are hooked. Ran those fuel cars too long to ever give it up.
Now have to sheck the run-out and slop. First glance showns that it is very tight. Most all the tools with it. Have enough tooling to do my Kohlers and up.
I will probably get distracted for a while checking it out.
Will try it on some junk blocks first to check the accuracy.
Don V:
Who could I go to to have a steel head made. Also, has anybody ever tried to "O" ring a block. I believe it would take a CNC mill to do it right. You know me, I have to mess with the Nitro and want to keep head gaskets in place.
Just thinking out loud right now while I get all the ingredients together.
Are dual plugs allowed in the 30 Cub Outlaws?
Does anybody made a setup to use a crank trigger to control the ignition. Would need to underdrive the flying crank magnet 50%. I talked to Joe Ponder at MSD and right now the items don't seem to be available. Also, mag(ignition) lead, is it around 50 degrees plus like our fuel cars? Course it is retarded with timers down track. Air timers are the trick. Leaning toward injected so I can control the fuel delivery with a pill and barrel valve and pressure reglator.
I know that there are not too many places to pull but I just gotta sniff the juice. Once it gets in your blood, you are hooked. Ran those fuel cars too long to ever give it up.
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farmall gray
Guest
Frank M,
On Brian millers page it shows how to make your own crank trigger setup. It uses a chrysler control module. I would think you could use an
MSD in place of the chrysler module. I think MSD even made a module that plugs in place of a chrysler module.http://members.aol.com/pullingtractor/tips.htm
On Brian millers page it shows how to make your own crank trigger setup. It uses a chrysler control module. I would think you could use an
MSD in place of the chrysler module. I think MSD even made a module that plugs in place of a chrysler module.http://members.aol.com/pullingtractor/tips.htm
F
farmall gray
Guest
Has anyone ever run into a kohler block that has never been bored, but wouldn't clean up at .030?
The guy that is boring my K321 block said that it looks like it wasn't bored straight at the factory. He has bored 2 other blocks for me and they came out real nice so I don't think it is his fault. I have known him for a long time and he is very careful. Anyway I haven't seen the block yet but he says it has a spot at the bottom
up about 1" that didn't clean up. It should be below the ring travel and it is not on the thrust
face. This engine had a broken piston skirt when I
tore it apart so the bore not being straight may have caused that. I'm picking it up tomorrow and I'll check it out. Hopefully I'll be able to use it. Anyone have any opinions or thoughts on this?
The guy that is boring my K321 block said that it looks like it wasn't bored straight at the factory. He has bored 2 other blocks for me and they came out real nice so I don't think it is his fault. I have known him for a long time and he is very careful. Anyway I haven't seen the block yet but he says it has a spot at the bottom
up about 1" that didn't clean up. It should be below the ring travel and it is not on the thrust
face. This engine had a broken piston skirt when I
tore it apart so the bore not being straight may have caused that. I'm picking it up tomorrow and I'll check it out. Hopefully I'll be able to use it. Anyone have any opinions or thoughts on this?
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