Diy attachments

[PhilipDavis]

I bought my 129 specifically for ground engagement, but I jumped on one with only a mower deck. I was just a little bit too excited about it when I saw it(im still happy with the purchase, I just need to make up for it). So I started working on a grader-like blade to swap out the deck, and since 3-points are so expensive, I decided to make that as well.

 

[PhilipDavis]

The lift needs to be finished, I will tap the holes on the ends, and run a shouldered grade 8 bolt. Also need to make the lift link. I left the lift long enough to modify later when I figure out the geometry for class 0.
I need to alter the blade some, I didn't add enough angle to it, so it doesn't bite in much, but essentially it works. I also should fab some non floating links to help keep it engaged. Maybe make it narrower as well...

 

[lpalma]

That look like it will do the job.

 

[PhilipDavis]

That look like it will do the job.

It scrapes the top a little, but does not really dig in/through the dirt. I've changed the angle, and made some non floating links, but need to finish the rear support that needed to be cut off to change the angle.

 

[cdthornton]

I think there's some clever handiwork there. I'd change the blade so you're not trying to push the wide part into the ground. And while I have a 147 I've not even been under it so I don't know how strong the deck hanger is. I do have several Wheel Horses and their grader blades go right to the frame using their robust Attach Matic mounts.

Or course it depends on what your expectations are. Leveling loose dirt and sand it different than cutting into hardpack.

 

[PhilipDavis]

Thanks cdthornton, correct, it turned out more level than I anticipated. I attempted to give it about a 25degree angle on the bottom flat side, but I guesstimated while it was an inch above the ground, with room to move down. In the full down position it swings forward a little, and takes up the rest of the angle...

Now I made solid links to negate float, and increased the angle to 45, so it should be better. I plan on pushing it as far as I can, loose dirt is easy enough to move, and it's already done that, but here in TN we have clay, and I will be moving it around, whether or not from the grader alone. Also I should mention that it is slightly curved, the middle bites more than the outsides by about 1/2in.

Just started the next attachment which should resemble a moldboard plow. I started with a semi brake drum and cut it out. Frame should be easy enough, I just need to get more metal for it. Pics to come soon.

 

[PhilipDavis]

Booger welds.

 

[PhilipDavis]

More work today, I created the lower links for the 3-point. I don't know how long most are, but mine came out to 21" center to center. Lots of free movement from the links.
I also attached and tested the grader blade. It has more solid engagement, now for more traction(clay and turf tires don't provide much).

 

[PhilipDavis]

And a transfer bar:

 

[mgonitzke]

By "transfer bar" I assume you mean the bar that goes between the hand lift lever and the 3-point rockshaft; if so, that looks a bit undersized to me. Original one would have been 1/2" x 1 1/2" or something like that.

 

[PhilipDavis]

Ahh, pictures online are the only thing I had to go from. Makes sense that it's thicker, I'll just weld some more on, thanks for the catch.

 

[PhilipDavis]

It's been a busy week and I haven't been able to make much progress on my attachments. But, I did purchase an older IH Super A plow that I will adapt to the 129. It's big and heavy, but I will slim it down so it should be manageable.
I believe it has a 13" cut and is longer than the 129. I plan on cutting about 1.5' off the frame to put the attachment bracket at the same place as the coulter. Also the plow will be shortened to around 9-10in.
I also picked up a tiller with the intention of making it attach to the 129, but it turned out to be a tractor itself, with other implements already to be used.

 

[rengasser]

To give you a feel of how much draft a moldboard plow takes here is the formula from the IH plow How booklet. Soil pressure is measured in lbs per square inch and nominally sandy loam soil is 8 psi and heavy clay is 12 psi. Draft load is soil psi x width of cut x depth of cut. If you have a 12" bottom and go t6" deep you have 12" wide, 6" deep, 12 PSI clay you are looking at 864# of draft.

A tractor will normally pull 1/2 its driving wheel weight in normal soil conditions so if you have 700# of tractor, ballast, weight transfer and operator on the rear tires you can expect to pull about 350# of draft load. You get more traction in harder conditions, less in sandy and wet conditions.

If I recall correctly the plow for a Cadet is an 8" bottom so 5" deep in 8 PSI sandy loam soil is 320# of draft load.

 

[PhilipDavis]

That's exactly what I needed to know, thank you. I was going to attempt to leave the plow alone, but it really does look like I need to fix it or find a smaller one. Looks like I had a bit too much ambition for the Cub.
I will make up some concrete wheel weights and add fluid to the tires soon. Also I have more welding to do to brace and add weight, and finish my lift. It was put on the back burner with the wet weather we had for a bit.

 

[Everettlee]

I did not take this aerator build too seriously, found used rotary hoe wheels in the barn and thought it might work
If it turns out to be worthwhile I will make improvements

 

[tkhoffman]

Interesting intake manifold on your avatar.

 

[Everettlee]

Interesting intake manifold on your avatar.

weiand intake with Offenhauser necks