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Custom Cub Tinwork/ Fenders

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Glen-
When I reworked and widened my round fenders I used a pilot bit and a Unibit, I just kept making the hole bigger until the weld popped. Putting it back together was just as easy since I had ready-made plug weld holes.
 
Sooo, how do you find those damn welds that you cant see through the paint?
 
Best way is to sand the paint off, it will give you a better idea where the center of the weld is. They do make spot weld cutters that will cut through only one side. I have a few and they work real good, just chuck them in a 3/8 drill. I think NAPA sells them.

Bren
 
Glen-
I just wire wheeled the paint off to find them. At least in my case, I found there was no specific pattern, spacing, or number of spot welds. I've done fenders as well as swapped a tall tunnel for a low tunnel on a frame. I'm very happy with how it turned out.
 
Dennis,
How much weight on your tractor??
I missed the inside yellow weights the first time I looked at the pictures.
Big solid weight outside and two on the inside??!!
Internal brake of course.
Filled tires???

Thanks
Dudley
 
DUDLEY - The solid weights are about 40-42#, the yellow weights are CC weights from Wyatt so 26# and the inside white weight is some VERY old off-brand, and weigh about 20-22# so about 85-90#/wheel. The inner inside weight makes it real hard to mount the sleeve hitch so I've put the CC weights on the 70. No fluid in the tires, I have a '54 Super H that's had fluid in the rear tires since new and I am looking for new rims.
irritated.gif
It sits next to Dad's '51 M that's NEVER had fluid and the rims still look like new after 56 yrs. The fenders are made from either 11 or 12 ga. steel so they add a bit of weight too.

The work I've done on My old tractor REALLY makes Me appreciate the work Brad's done on His. Ain't any of it hard.... some takes special tools, and a LOT of planning. And attention to detail.
 

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