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Archive through September 27, 2013

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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BrianW: My experience is that low tire air pressure makes for hard manual steering. Higher (tread profile rounded) tire air pressure makes for much easier manual steering. Your new tires with probably better air pressure obviously helped. Add a bit more pressure so that the tread profile is slightly rounded which will give the tire less "footprint" to grip the ground with - thus easier steering.

MBounds
 
Bill J.
The thrust washer upgrade is slightly noticable
It should be a long lasting aid.
I just changed my 129 to 3-turn worm gear plus the thrust washer upgrade. Very nice this way.

If I was working with an 82 series I'd opt for power steering if it was a serious worker.
 
Brian W: All of the other things do help make the steering easier, but to answer your original question - yes, the minor cost of installing the thrust bearing kit DOES make a difference that I could feel on my 129, which already had the tie rod ends replace with Heim joints, the axle mount portion of the frame tightened up, the king pins well lubricated and the box rebuilt. The thrust bearing eliminated an unnecessary friction point..
 
I have tried just about everything except power steering. I have found that new steering gear bearings, cam follower, good heim joints and tri rib tires aired to around 18 lb.is the answer to good steering. Just my opinion.
 
Luther-

Don't forget to add driving in snow, and adding a rear tiller. That always makes steering easier.
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NIC - "Mr. FRISK" was My Dad.... You can just call me DENNY.
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We all have our favorite tractors for different reasons, a 782 w/PS would be a nice tractor to run.

Guess I'm just used to tractors that steer hard, my Super H w/loader has NFE and NO PS... when sitting still it's two hands and arms, plus a little Body English to turn the steering wheel. But 40-50 PSI in the frt tires really helps. Once it's mowing a little it steers O-K, the faster the better. The most common Char-Lynn PS for the H/SH series requires cutting a hole in the frt top left corner of the hood for clearance for the PS reservoir, and THAT ain't happening to my tractor. The M does have Char-Lynn PS, a very early version with the pump & res. tucked up under the hood, the most common version is the later one which mounts to the governor housing. Dad put that style on his Super M-TA. The M was Dad's loader tractor plus wore the IH 2M-E mounted corn picker for 20 yrs, so always carried lots of frt end weight, so PS was a necessity and was added sometime in the 1950's.

PS on a GD would be an interesting project. Please post a few pic's when you get farther along on that project. I've thought about putting on-board hyd. on my 72 but I'm running out of places to hang stuff on it, not sure where I'd put the reservoir big enough to hold a gal. or two of oil. But tapping into the Hy-Tran in the rearend might be an option, just not sure how well the pump would stay primed. I'd still use the manual lift for the rockshaft. My goal would be to use the 72 to raise my big hyd. dump cart and other tasks. It would be a higher PSI system, 1500-2000 PSI. I use the 982 now and sometimes on BIG loads of dirt & rock, REALLY big loads it won't start raising the bed, needs more PSI. I've only had that problem 2-3 times but would still like to fix it.

But, back on the improving the manual steering issue, when I rebuilt the steering box on the 70 this spring, everything was actually in decent shape inside the box, just had terrible looking grease mixed with water in it. Disassembled & cleaned everything, re-assembled and greased everytthing up, and installed the thrust bearing kit I got from Dave Kirk several yrs ago. I was going to put that on the 72 along with the brand new gearbox I bought ten yrs ago but the design of the gearbox casting is different and the thrust bearing won't work on it. I also used a good used 3/4" frt wheel bearing for the top bearing on the steering tube, reduces turning effort a bit more. The result was a tractor that steered very easy without the half turn of steering play that it had before the rebuild. "Palming" the wheel is NO problem, in fact one finger behind a spoke in the wheel and you can spin the steering wheel when moving. Last tractor I ran that steered that easy was a 4010/4020 JD, even Dad's 4010 w/ 11Lx15 frt tires & 4-38 frt mounted cultivator on I could flick the steering wheel standing still and the tractor would turn stop-to-stop.

Both the 70 & 72 need new frt tires, will probably use tri-ribs on both. The factory installed GY ribs still have decent tread, but the casings are aged so much that I've had blow-outs where the casing just ripped and blew the tube.
 
Got the K241 put back into the 100 on Thursday. Bolted in just fine after rebuilding the clutch. New bearing, teaser spring and the large coil spring. Disc waw in good shape, so no need to do anything to it. The old coil spring was actually broken in two when I pulled it appart?
Still have to hook gas tank and wiring back up and install the front grill. Will have to do some work on the front axle some day, its getting to have a fair bit of play at the pivot pin. That will be a task since one of the PO welded the pin in on the front side. Imagine with the play in it and the little bit of play on the shaft where the wheel bearings sit, I will be in for another front axle? Need to get this running first to see that everything is good now after the valve cleaning and multiple times of cleaning the carb!

Spent the day yesterday getting the deer fence finished around the garden - that's been an ogoing project that I VERY glad is done. If they get into the garden now, they had better be there when I get up in the morning, cause I am going to fill my freezer from the dirty beggers! So tired of them eating my garden. Bad enough they eat my soybeans all summer!

I am pretty sure I have asked this before, what is everyone's opinion on that graphite paint for on the inside of a blower? I am wondering if its worth while painting the inside of the chute and around it at the back side of the auger with it or just leave it the white paint? Also, has anyone ever taken a paint flake to the paint store to have them "match" the shade? The Old Man went last week to find cheaper Massey paint from the hardware store, was able to get a shade very close for less than half of what they charge at the dealership. The guy at the hardware store told him to bring in a flake of paint next time, they have a computer that can match it. Didn't know if anyone had done this and if it was a cheaper way to go when repainting. Didn't know if the quality of paint was the same? Just curious.

Sun is supposed to shine today for the 4th day in a row here - happy Cub'n!
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