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Archive through September 26, 2011
- Thread starter wshytle
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Neil, nice Cubs!
I got the 1650 running sweet. All I lack are the two belts for the tiller set-up and she's ready to hit the garden.
I do have one question in general...should I put ags on the rear or just stay with the turf? I figure since the tiller is just holding the tiller back ags wouldn't be necessary but I'd like to hear from experience. I'm not posting photos of the tiller yet; it is still a rust bucket of sorts but tight and working (turning). It could also use a set of tines.
The colors are mixed and matched because this is for work, not show (yet).
I do have one question in general...should I put ags on the rear or just stay with the turf? I figure since the tiller is just holding the tiller back ags wouldn't be necessary but I'd like to hear from experience. I'm not posting photos of the tiller yet; it is still a rust bucket of sorts but tight and working (turning). It could also use a set of tines.
The colors are mixed and matched because this is for work, not show (yet).
astrawderman
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 24, 2011
- Messages
- 72
- displayname
- Andrew Strawderman
Hey guys, I am building a sleeve hitch for my 128 and found a link lift bar, casting and and some other pieces. It came off of a cub cadet 1650. Will quietline lift parts work on the older wide frames?
HI! I HAVE A 1969 CUB CADET 72 AND I'M HAVING TROUBLE WITH IT.IT WONT TURN OVER WHEN I TURN THE KEY. IT HAS A NEW SOLENOID AND KEY SWITCH, IF I JUMP IT FROM THE BATTERY STRAIGHT TO THE STARTER IT STARTS AND RUNS FINE AND TURNS OFF WHEN I TURN THE KEY OFF BUT IF I TRY TO START IT AGAIN I HAVE TO JUMP IT AT THE STARTER AGAIN. DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT I SHOULD CHECK NEXT?
trutherford
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- Joined
- May 17, 2011
- Messages
- 79
- displayname
- Troy Rutherford
Is there such a thing as an cc original with a woods mower in the front of it. it doesn't lift up. the lift arm actually titans the belt to turn the blades on. I Pass it every time i go to school i stop and looked at it a couple times but nobody was home. I wanted to know if this was actually an option or did someone rig this up. it look really good condition but i've never seen or heard of one before. I dont have any pictures right now but i wanted to know if someone could help me out. thank everyone
trutherford
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- May 17, 2011
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- 79
- displayname
- Troy Rutherford
how much do you think they are worth.
Tony H.
It's enamel. Depending on my mood and how fast i want things to dry. I use enamel reducer (medium), and if I'm in a real hurry and plan to repaint later on, I use lacquer thinner. Shhhhh, Don't tell anyone I told ya that!
It's enamel. Depending on my mood and how fast i want things to dry. I use enamel reducer (medium), and if I'm in a real hurry and plan to repaint later on, I use lacquer thinner. Shhhhh, Don't tell anyone I told ya that!
Starting problems on a 100.
Fired up the 100 and drove it down to where my brothers where working on a new pumphouse for our mother, after a couple of hours I went to fire it up to go back home to get ready for that nasty four letter word, also known as work.
Anyhow the 100 was a no go, I turnd on the key and pushed in the starter button and nothing happened.
Now I needed a tow home, so I had to have a craspman pull my cub home.
Next day I go out to work on the 100, still no go when I turn on the key and push the starter button.
So I get out the jumper wire and jump the starter off the battery, fires right up.
Replace the key switch with a toggle switch and attempt to start it, again no starter rotation, use jumper wire and it fires up.
Ok, its not the switch, must be the starter button.
Who came up with the placement of the starter button? What where they thinking? How do I remove it without haveing to remove the steering columm? How long is this repair going to take?
I don't have all the answers but I do have a busted tractor that need work and no time to do it.
I need to fine me another job so I have even less time to work on my equipment, I waiste 6 hours a day now sleeping when I could be working and earning needed income.
Fired up the 100 and drove it down to where my brothers where working on a new pumphouse for our mother, after a couple of hours I went to fire it up to go back home to get ready for that nasty four letter word, also known as work.
Anyhow the 100 was a no go, I turnd on the key and pushed in the starter button and nothing happened.
Now I needed a tow home, so I had to have a craspman pull my cub home.
Next day I go out to work on the 100, still no go when I turn on the key and push the starter button.
So I get out the jumper wire and jump the starter off the battery, fires right up.
Replace the key switch with a toggle switch and attempt to start it, again no starter rotation, use jumper wire and it fires up.
Ok, its not the switch, must be the starter button.
Who came up with the placement of the starter button? What where they thinking? How do I remove it without haveing to remove the steering columm? How long is this repair going to take?
I don't have all the answers but I do have a busted tractor that need work and no time to do it.
I need to fine me another job so I have even less time to work on my equipment, I waiste 6 hours a day now sleeping when I could be working and earning needed income.
mhomrighausen
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- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Neil K. Nice looking set of Cub Cadets there.
Wayne S. Fantastic news about getting the 1650 up and running.
Paul B. Is the Original with front mounted Woods mower anywhere close to where I live?
<font size="-2">(Not that I'd be out looking for it.)
</font>
Wayne S. Fantastic news about getting the 1650 up and running.
Paul B. Is the Original with front mounted Woods mower anywhere close to where I live?
Marlin,
It lives in eastern Iowa, not sure exactly where. I saw it at Red Power Round-Up at Mt. Pleasant in 2004, and if I remember correctly, it was missing part of the mounting hardware. The other one I am aware of is in Ohio, not in PA as I originally posted (CRS you know). The one I was thinking of in PA is actually a M&W Weed mower that can also be converted to mow lawns.
It lives in eastern Iowa, not sure exactly where. I saw it at Red Power Round-Up at Mt. Pleasant in 2004, and if I remember correctly, it was missing part of the mounting hardware. The other one I am aware of is in Ohio, not in PA as I originally posted (CRS you know). The one I was thinking of in PA is actually a M&W Weed mower that can also be converted to mow lawns.
WAYNE - I agree with NORM, what little tilling I've done with Dad's old 129 it worked fine with turf tires.
Years ago my Buddy came over with his off-topic green tractor and tilled my garden. He hit the root clump of the Canadian thistle that was 3 ft tall I tried to dig out of the garden. Lifted the WHOLE back end of the tractor off the ground and moved the whole thing forward about three feet faster than you could blink. He had turf tires like it really made any difference.
Years ago my Buddy came over with his off-topic green tractor and tilled my garden. He hit the root clump of the Canadian thistle that was 3 ft tall I tried to dig out of the garden. Lifted the WHOLE back end of the tractor off the ground and moved the whole thing forward about three feet faster than you could blink. He had turf tires like it really made any difference.
Thanks to all about the tires. I have a set of ags on the 109 but plan to use it for the harrowing. The other set I have is on the 129 and it will be used to turn the sod so turfs will stay on the 1650 with the tiller.
Also, thanks Marlin. That 1650s hydro linkage gave me fits but I just kept trying until it acted right...finally. Sometimes you just have to put the manual down and grab a wrench. It should be an excellent tractor. The engine uses or burns no oil as far as I can tell. It's one of those that as soon as it starts turning from the starter it fires and is ready to go; it runs like a sewing machine. The hydro stays where I put it and maintains its speed very nicely with the trunion work.
One more question...when running the 1650s amp gage stays pegged to the C. I checked it and found the battery is getting 14.22 volts at wot. I think this is a little much for charging. What could be the reason for the small overcharge? I did switch out the wiring harness with one from an identical 1650 and went over it several times before running the tractor. Everything has worked fine since it was first started.
Also, thanks Marlin. That 1650s hydro linkage gave me fits but I just kept trying until it acted right...finally. Sometimes you just have to put the manual down and grab a wrench. It should be an excellent tractor. The engine uses or burns no oil as far as I can tell. It's one of those that as soon as it starts turning from the starter it fires and is ready to go; it runs like a sewing machine. The hydro stays where I put it and maintains its speed very nicely with the trunion work.
One more question...when running the 1650s amp gage stays pegged to the C. I checked it and found the battery is getting 14.22 volts at wot. I think this is a little much for charging. What could be the reason for the small overcharge? I did switch out the wiring harness with one from an identical 1650 and went over it several times before running the tractor. Everything has worked fine since it was first started.
Wayne Shytle
I think turfs will do a job ,I have two sets of IH weights on each back turf tires on my 149 and was able to push half a blade full of class A ( stone and ground mixed). Now for the loader to smooth it off with some back dragging of the bucket. I need to finish this so I can move my fiver over out off the drive.
I think turfs will do a job ,I have two sets of IH weights on each back turf tires on my 149 and was able to push half a blade full of class A ( stone and ground mixed). Now for the loader to smooth it off with some back dragging of the bucket. I need to finish this so I can move my fiver over out off the drive.
