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Archive through September 19, 2007
- Thread starter bbranstetter
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
David G.
You might have to ruin them to get them out (you should put a set of Mike M's aluminum plates on anyway
).....use a cold chisel and a hammer...get a good bite and use short firm hits with a hammer. This method has never failed me, but it will damage the bolts.
You might have to ruin them to get them out (you should put a set of Mike M's aluminum plates on anyway
sblunier
Well-known member
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Henri,
Take your Dremel tool with a sanding drum attachment and clean up the bore of the drive plate bushing ever so slightly...just enough to brighten up the brass/bronze. Apply a very light coat of grease and reassemble the driveline. Your "run-on" problem will go away.
Take your Dremel tool with a sanding drum attachment and clean up the bore of the drive plate bushing ever so slightly...just enough to brighten up the brass/bronze. Apply a very light coat of grease and reassemble the driveline. Your "run-on" problem will go away.
JAMES - The Starter/generator was rated @ 15A but they'll normally do a bit better than that if they're in good shape. The later K241's with the flywheel generator were rated something like 10-12A, like would be in a model 1000 Q/L.
Don B., nice job on the 147!
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
Todd Heaton (Theaton) on Sunday, September 09, 2007 - 08:16 pm:
On my 128, there is one 1/4 inch groove worn in the front axle from the mule drive belt. The only time the belt comes in contact with the axle is with the mower(38 inch) in the fully raised position with the PTO engaged. Dad said the original belt did the same from brand new<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
That's very interesting indeed....
I don't know what differences, if any, there might be between your CC 128, mule drive with a 38" deck and my CC 127, mule drive with a 42" (deck P/N 42U113) mower deck set up, but I can tell you this: with the PTO engaged, I can raise my deck all the way up or down and my front mule pulleys are ~1/2" away from touching the front axle when on the level. A good share of my mowing is with the deck all the way up (due to uneven ground) and altough it is rough, hilly and bumpy ground, the axle has NO cuts in it to date.
I believe my center deck pulley is OEM and I'm running a 1/2" x 82" PTO-to-deck (main drive) belt and the tensioner nut "K" (located at the front hanger) adjusted to provide 3-5/16" distance from center of the mule drive pulley to inside surface of the hanger. For reference
, this measurement is outlined at Illust. 3-6 on page 3-7 of the Blue Ribbon Service #GSS-1398, IH Service Manual for Cub Cadets, 72, 104, 105, 124 & 125 and IH Equipment.
Ryan W
Todd Heaton (Theaton) on Sunday, September 09, 2007 - 08:16 pm:
On my 128, there is one 1/4 inch groove worn in the front axle from the mule drive belt. The only time the belt comes in contact with the axle is with the mower(38 inch) in the fully raised position with the PTO engaged. Dad said the original belt did the same from brand new<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
That's very interesting indeed....
I don't know what differences, if any, there might be between your CC 128, mule drive with a 38" deck and my CC 127, mule drive with a 42" (deck P/N 42U113) mower deck set up, but I can tell you this: with the PTO engaged, I can raise my deck all the way up or down and my front mule pulleys are ~1/2" away from touching the front axle when on the level. A good share of my mowing is with the deck all the way up (due to uneven ground) and altough it is rough, hilly and bumpy ground, the axle has NO cuts in it to date.
I believe my center deck pulley is OEM and I'm running a 1/2" x 82" PTO-to-deck (main drive) belt and the tensioner nut "K" (located at the front hanger) adjusted to provide 3-5/16" distance from center of the mule drive pulley to inside surface of the hanger. For reference
Ryan W
Glen C., perhaps you could get a second set of Wide Frame spindles and use the two sets to make one taller set. Cut the axle stubs off of one set of spindles then cut the horizontal sections off of the second set of spindles. Then weld the vertical sections that remain from the second set to the first set so that the axle stubs are at a location that is at the height that you want. Hope that all made sense.
Anyway, here's my rough sketch.
Nice work Don and all's work that I see here. I've been "inspired" for quite some time now to take the 129 down to basics and make it a bit more presentable even though it's a worker. I must say that I have had it down this far and further in tha past and used anti-sieze on most everything and it has been a pleasure to disassemble. Tomorrow the rear end comes out and when reassembled will sport a neopreme gaaket. I'm going to rattle can it and get some decals from Digger and call it a restro as mechanically I've got it in pretty good shape.
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