Archive through September 13, 2016

[jwiggins]

Austin E

Exactly what part did you "bend"?
Pics would really help us to diagnose the severity and any possible complications you may experience on re-installing the rear end.

 

[aewald]

Jason W

I think i bent the right side in the back where the axle mounts. but It kinda looks twisted to me. But i'm going to be putting in my other rear end and see if its just fixes it self

 

[eford]

I agree on exide from Menard's used for 2 years no problem now. I'm curious on what is bent too Austin

 

[jwiggins]

Austin E

Sounds like you may be referring to the rear right side of the "Frame"?

If it is not bent or twisted to the point that caused an actual "crease" in the frame, possibly other rear end will pull any slight bend or twist back as you mentioned,,,,,

Edit:

If you don't Recall an actual "Oh @"*%" moment, quite possibly could have already been Flexed from a Previous Owner,,,,

 

[jwiggins]

Earl F

OMG, From that list I'd say you are borderline, if not ALREADY!!!!
In the Too many to list category!!!!

Ah the heck w/ that little thumbs up,,,,

 

[jmitchell]

Hey Hydroharry....I appreciate all the info and heads up on what to be on the lookout for with the AQ42A...Certainly gives me much to think about,

Regards
Johns

 

[aewald]

Jason W
I looked at the frame, it was kinda bent outwards, but if I had put the hydro in and bolted it. it would fit. But I have ran into another problem. Sadly I wont be getting pics any time soon since its at school, and less time taking pics and more work time since its only 2 periods. But it has seems to be someone had broke a bolt that mounts the axle to frame on the left side. So we got the axle on a lift table. Got the left side off. Found the bolt. only about 1/2 cm deep? Now we just going to drill it out and hopefully I can get it out with a easy out.

Jason W
Also where can i get those straps you have around your hydro? They look like a real easy way to mount it. Also how many blocks are you using to keep it in the air like that?

 

[lkortkamp]

Thanks Charlie, that is very nice to take care of this. I wasn't going to really worry about it. I thought maybe something was missing.

If you haven't already, don't put the pin in. I did that and it was a real bear to get everything installed. It would have been easier to put the pin in last after having everything bolted up. Maybe I was doing it all backwards, since I never pulled it apart before.

 

[digger]

Larry K.
The LESS beating on things the better.
The pin is in and on it's way to ya.

It's super easy to put it all together and slide the engine side in, drop the shaft/rag joint down, install 2 bolts and nuts and your done.
It can't get any easier than that,

 

[lkortkamp]

OK. I know this one was a TIGHT fit, had to leave the engine coupler loose to get enough wiggle to get the other end pilot slipped into the hydraulic pump hole.

It's easy to take apart when it is way sloppy. All new makes it fit only one way.

 

[digger]

It's actually easier for me to take the 4 engine bolts out if I'm feeling lazy, that makes it much less of a knuckle buster project. LOL

Course when some jacka$$ sends you crap and you have to do it twice! Well You know!

 

[eford]

Austin E. I think you can buy from Grainger. Where we get them at work. Or just use the smaller 1 inch wide ratchet tie downs straps you can get anywhere. Just hook the hooks together. I've used a lashing strap before, I'm not too keen on the cam variety that just has a grabber that basically pinches the strap. I've used the 2 inch wide 10,000# straps to pull the k-301 out of the 1200 before when I broke my come-along. That is not ideal by any means. That's why I'm putting a beam in the garage and getting a chain hoist!

 

[eford]

Hydro I have to thank you as well. I'll be working on my qa this winter(yes I know the irony) and I want to tear down completely, hopefully find a sand blaster to clean up for me and paint up nice again. She's been sitting outside for many years, but still turns at least.

 

[hydroharry]

Earl F and John M - you're sure welcome for the info on the QA throwers. They work great for many years when you go completely thru them, cleaned them up well and paint them. Rust is a real pain in the _ _ _. It slows the snow down and allows it to clog. Some guys like to paint the auger and inside of the housing with Slip-plate paint but I think it tends to wear off each year. I always just used regular CCC or Case/IH Ironguard, with a few extra coats.

One other thing that's come up on here before is to make sure you offset the 2 U-joint when you put the drive shaft back together. Can't remember what the problem was when someone had them almost aligned - may have been crazy vibration or something. Your driveshafts are likely correctly positioned now so just pay attention and put them back together the same way.

Once you've got your units all done pay close attention to the set up and mounting instructions. You need to check the belt tension each time you use the unit. The belt tensioner doesn't always stay tight. Some of the guys came up with a little locking wire so it can't loosen during use. I never really had a problem myself using it a couple hours at most each time it snowed, but I always check and re-adjusted belt tension next time I used it.

One thing in the instruction manual I think was a bit of overkill was greasing all the zerks before every use. I'd say every 2 or 3 times is all that's really necessary. You'll figure it out once you start using one.

Just ask away with your questions once you get started. You'll get lots of advice. There is also and FAQ about using a speed up pulley. If you go that route Charlie sells a good one and the shorter belt you'll need as well. I've never done this since I now live in a mostly no-snow area but I've seen videos and the QA will really throw the snow, like 20-30ft. You'll get 10-20ft, maybe 25ft. depending on the snow condition and amount you geed the thrower. Here is where I think the Hydro tractors really have the advantage over gear drive. They make it really easy to control feeding the snow into the thrower.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Steve B. Thank You for the battery information. Since the Cub budget is extra tight every little bit helps. (Sure wish that I could attend your Plow Day this year. NO overtime unless approved by the Plant Director. BUT the good news is that we haven't laid off anyone and aren't planning to.)

Jason W. I see in your picture that your Cub Cadet guard dog is sleeping on the job.

 

[jwiggins]

Austin E

Earl F is correct, Those "Grainger" stores are Popping up everywhere, around here anyway!!! Anything more than a 1" wide strap would be overkill for these small tractor's,,,

1" Nylon Strap

Or the "Ratchet Straps" would work well also, as Earl mentioned, they would be more Available really from any Hardware or Auto Parts store!!!

I Park my little cubby under I-beam in Garage,,,,,
Beam Clamp and a small 1/4 Ton Come-Along work great for the Heavy Lifting,,,

When Pulling Rear End I Crib the Frame w/ 6x6's and 4x4's or whatever combination of those keep the Frame Level while the rigging supports the weight of Rear End,,,

There is some Really Good Info in the FAQ sections also, Weather you replace cork gasket or "Not" lots of good info!!!

Also Concerning the Broken Bolt in the Axle Housing,,,,

"Maybe"
You could Remove The Remaining axle housing bolts
Then:
Pull Axle Clip in Rear End
Then:
Remove Entire Left Axel Housing
Then:
More of the Broken bolt would be Exposed so you could get a Nut welded on it and use an "IMPACT" to Remove the remaining piece of the Broken Bolt!!!!
Or atleast you could possibly get a Pipe wrench on the bolt with axle housing removed!!!!!

The Impact's really work well on them old rusty Siezed bolts, Much Better than Steady even pressure from a Wrench or Socket!!!!!

Let us know how it goes and if there is anything we might be able to help ya out with!!!!

Good Luck on the Super Awesome School Project!!!

 

[mgonitzke]

Austin E.-

I will second Jason's suggestion to remove the axle tube and weld a nut onto it. In my experience, easy-outs very rarely work. There is probably enough there to weld a nut on the way you have described it, so that is the easiest fix.

 

[jwiggins]

Austin

If you have never pulled a cub axle before it's really easy,

Remove the Remaining 4 bolts from the axle tube,,,,

Then pull the axle "CLIP" from inside the rear end,,,,
Needle nose pliers and Small Flat head should work to remove the clip,,,,

With the axle tube bolts AND the clip removed,,,
The entire axle and tube will slide rite out!!!

Then you should be able to better access that broken bolt without drilling & tapping

 

[aewald]

Jason W
Actually we just pulled the axle tube out yesterday. And the bolt is in the differnceal housing. But we will have to drill it then get a easy out then I should be fine.

 

[stanner]

Austin, when they broke on my 149, I could have walked them out with a scratch awl through the hole. The bolts were that loose. Of course the step below will enable the installation of new axle seals and fresh hytran..