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- Jason Wiggins
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Archive through September 11, 2016
- Thread starter jwiggins
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
lpalma
Well-known member
Your welcome Wayne,
Jason,
Bright Idea! Keep up on your posts,as they make others get motivated.
Harry the correct police officer will be by to point a few things out though....
Jason,
Bright Idea! Keep up on your posts,as they make others get motivated.
Harry the correct police officer will be by to point a few things out though....
mgwin
Well-known member
Jason Great!
Yeah its keeping me motivated while moving stuff in! 1200 came home today, stuffed behind 100. Still figuring that all out, shelving is definitely needed for all the parts and implements. Got to sharpen blades on other 44a deck to mow with, and fix the tie rod end that fell off, again, zip tie broke...
She fired right up and purred nicely though!
Yeah its keeping me motivated while moving stuff in! 1200 came home today, stuffed behind 100. Still figuring that all out, shelving is definitely needed for all the parts and implements. Got to sharpen blades on other 44a deck to mow with, and fix the tie rod end that fell off, again, zip tie broke...
She fired right up and purred nicely though!
Attachments
I got the thicker 1/4 inch rear end plates from Charlie. Question is would you guys just drill and thread or drill way out and weld a cut piece of a pipe union in there? I'm having trouble locating a welder friend to help me out.
I would think it would be OK to just drill and thread the size the old covers are?
I would think it would be OK to just drill and thread the size the old covers are?
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2016
- Messages
- 749
- displayname
- Jason Wiggins
Marty -
The "incorrect" 2 wire drop was existing on 149 from either the PO or Factory, the common or ground was connected to the frame when it followed me home,
Looked like it made since so I left it the way it was!
Also there was "Already" so much dang WHITE paint in there figured black would make a nice contrast,
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Oh yeah I torched them babies to loosen up that 43yr old paint. Used a "feathered" flame with about 40psi on the oxygen side, with the oxy handle engaged the "heat" and "high pressure" removed most of the paint alone!!!
The paint that is actually left flakes off nice and easy,,,, I just warmed'em up a little, never really got the rims "HOT",,,,,
The "incorrect" 2 wire drop was existing on 149 from either the PO or Factory, the common or ground was connected to the frame when it followed me home,
Looked like it made since so I left it the way it was!
Also there was "Already" so much dang WHITE paint in there figured black would make a nice contrast,
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Oh yeah I torched them babies to loosen up that 43yr old paint. Used a "feathered" flame with about 40psi on the oxygen side, with the oxy handle engaged the "heat" and "high pressure" removed most of the paint alone!!!
The paint that is actually left flakes off nice and easy,,,, I just warmed'em up a little, never really got the rims "HOT",,,,,
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- Joined
- Apr 25, 2016
- Messages
- 749
- displayname
- Jason Wiggins
Lewis P -
Thanks,
Motivation never seemed to be an issue,,, As the 149 was following me home and I kept looking back in the mirror I knew at that moment I had pretty much swallowed the line; hook sinker and ALL!!!
I keep looking at guys like You and David S and so many others here, in the International Harvester ONLY BUILT Models Owned: section and I have to keep reminding myself that every time I pick up on a new little piece of information I get all excited and post before I Think and realize that most you guys have been around this IH equipment for decades!!!!
And also "yes" I'm still waiting on Hydro's critique of my handy work,
Man I tell ya what, Hydro sure has helped me, as have all you guys with questions and concerns I've posted.
I'm Starting to Like the "Cub for every attachment" theory,,,,,
Not because I'm Lazy, but because it's a Damn Good excuse to buy more cubs!!!!!
Edit: Now that I Realize I "Want" more cubs, some how, so way, I'm gonna have to put a "cub house" on my already mile long list of things to do!!!
Thanks,
Motivation never seemed to be an issue,,, As the 149 was following me home and I kept looking back in the mirror I knew at that moment I had pretty much swallowed the line; hook sinker and ALL!!!
I keep looking at guys like You and David S and so many others here, in the International Harvester ONLY BUILT Models Owned: section and I have to keep reminding myself that every time I pick up on a new little piece of information I get all excited and post before I Think and realize that most you guys have been around this IH equipment for decades!!!!
And also "yes" I'm still waiting on Hydro's critique of my handy work,
Man I tell ya what, Hydro sure has helped me, as have all you guys with questions and concerns I've posted.
I'm Starting to Like the "Cub for every attachment" theory,,,,,
Not because I'm Lazy, but because it's a Damn Good excuse to buy more cubs!!!!!
Edit: Now that I Realize I "Want" more cubs, some how, so way, I'm gonna have to put a "cub house" on my already mile long list of things to do!!!
Attachments
Yep, Jason has a serious case of the Yellow and White fever...
Hey guys..I got a question about mounting the QA42A on to a 126, which of course is a narrow frame machine..The set up manual made mention of an adaptor package being necessary to operate the thrower with machines with serial number 400.000 and below.
What is this adaptor?
I was under the impression you just put the slip bolts that fastens the angle-drive/sheave into the outside holes of the actual quick mount (A, in the manual) thus narrowing the mount plates width to the proper size to fit the narrow frame and snap into the QA hooks and bale lock?
If anyone has some good clear photos of their QA42A mounted on their narrow frame that shows the details of how the top and bottom links and cross rods are spaced.
Thanks
John
What is this adaptor?
I was under the impression you just put the slip bolts that fastens the angle-drive/sheave into the outside holes of the actual quick mount (A, in the manual) thus narrowing the mount plates width to the proper size to fit the narrow frame and snap into the QA hooks and bale lock?
If anyone has some good clear photos of their QA42A mounted on their narrow frame that shows the details of how the top and bottom links and cross rods are spaced.
Thanks
John
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2016
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- 749
- displayname
- Jason Wiggins
Hey thanks Jason and everyone else...I think the spacers are the items needed..I've looked at it several times and at as many photos that I could get to turn up on Google images..The spacers must be the "kit". I presume the top links will pivot enough to turn inward and fasten at the top to the side plate mount pins..
Question.. On the QA42A drive shaft..Is that a two piece that can be pulled apart for the purpose of separating the chute/auger from the the angle drive and mounting plates?
Thanks
John
Question.. On the QA42A drive shaft..Is that a two piece that can be pulled apart for the purpose of separating the chute/auger from the the angle drive and mounting plates?
Thanks
John
hydroharry
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- Jul 22, 2007
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- 4,377
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Jason - hey "let there be light"!!!! Now you can buzz up and down your street 24/7/365 without fear of someone not seeing you, or you not seeing their parked vehicle or trailer
I did notice the black paint on the inside. It will be interesting to hear how that works after dark with the hood open and lights on. Maybe you can get us a pic so we can see. Probably not enough light to help ya fill the gas tank after dark in an emergency.
And someone said something about your use of non-WP stamped bolts. The bolts thru the hinge weren't actually stamped WP as I recall. They were some type of light metal with special threads and almost always stripped out of the aluminum upper grill housing. Looks to me like you got something that at least works. I hope it doesn't react to the aluminum.
John M - no the driveshaft isn't designed to be separated in two so you can separate the gearbox assembly from the chute/auger assembly.
The 2 sections of the driveshaft are kept together with that little round clip, so you would have to open the tabs on the clip each time if you wanted to separate the driveshaft in two, and I wouldn't recommend doing that anymore than you have to. The little tabs on that clip will likely eventually snap off.
The whole QA42A assembly is designed to be kept together as one piece. I'd recommend reading thru the Operator Manual so you get the overall idea of setting it up and mounting it, and dis-mounting.
Two things of greatest concern to me:
1 - gearbox output shaft and keyway where it connects to the drive shaft. Every driveshaft I've seen except one, has one set screw and it's on the opposite side from the keyway. This can never keep the driveshaft tight against the key. It really should have 2 set screws, one directly over the key and one at a right angle. If yours only has the set screw on the opposite side from the key I'd have a good look at the keyway in the shaft out of the gearbox.
2 - small chain drive sprocket assembly. Have a good look at the sprocket and see if it's chewed into the mounting bracket which is where the roller bearings and cages are located (what the grease zerks grease up. Many times the sprocket has cut into the alumnimun housing and exposed the bearing cages or even cut into them. The small sprocket needs to be aligned with the large sprocket (once you've replaced your auger bearings) and shimmed into place to keep it lined up. The shims will also keep the sprocket from cutting into the sprocket mount and bearing cages. The split driveshaft slides apart and together which allows for the thrower to be raised and lowered without straining the small chain sprocket.
Hope these details help as you dig into the thrower. They work great when all tuned up and good paint. Ooh, and most of the time those chute fingers are missing anyway.
I'm just wondering now when Jason is gonna see the light and decide he needs a QA42A, and a another Hydro unit to run it. There's gotta be several around him in his neck of the woods (snow country).
I did notice the black paint on the inside. It will be interesting to hear how that works after dark with the hood open and lights on. Maybe you can get us a pic so we can see. Probably not enough light to help ya fill the gas tank after dark in an emergency.
And someone said something about your use of non-WP stamped bolts. The bolts thru the hinge weren't actually stamped WP as I recall. They were some type of light metal with special threads and almost always stripped out of the aluminum upper grill housing. Looks to me like you got something that at least works. I hope it doesn't react to the aluminum.
John M - no the driveshaft isn't designed to be separated in two so you can separate the gearbox assembly from the chute/auger assembly.
The 2 sections of the driveshaft are kept together with that little round clip, so you would have to open the tabs on the clip each time if you wanted to separate the driveshaft in two, and I wouldn't recommend doing that anymore than you have to. The little tabs on that clip will likely eventually snap off.
The whole QA42A assembly is designed to be kept together as one piece. I'd recommend reading thru the Operator Manual so you get the overall idea of setting it up and mounting it, and dis-mounting.
Two things of greatest concern to me:
1 - gearbox output shaft and keyway where it connects to the drive shaft. Every driveshaft I've seen except one, has one set screw and it's on the opposite side from the keyway. This can never keep the driveshaft tight against the key. It really should have 2 set screws, one directly over the key and one at a right angle. If yours only has the set screw on the opposite side from the key I'd have a good look at the keyway in the shaft out of the gearbox.
2 - small chain drive sprocket assembly. Have a good look at the sprocket and see if it's chewed into the mounting bracket which is where the roller bearings and cages are located (what the grease zerks grease up. Many times the sprocket has cut into the alumnimun housing and exposed the bearing cages or even cut into them. The small sprocket needs to be aligned with the large sprocket (once you've replaced your auger bearings) and shimmed into place to keep it lined up. The shims will also keep the sprocket from cutting into the sprocket mount and bearing cages. The split driveshaft slides apart and together which allows for the thrower to be raised and lowered without straining the small chain sprocket.
Hope these details help as you dig into the thrower. They work great when all tuned up and good paint. Ooh, and most of the time those chute fingers are missing anyway.
I'm just wondering now when Jason is gonna see the light and decide he needs a QA42A, and a another Hydro unit to run it. There's gotta be several around him in his neck of the woods (snow country).
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hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
John M - sorry to be jumping around here on the QA42A info. When you have your auger removed you need to make sure the welds on the paddles are good. You might have the older 2 paddle version or it could be the later 4 paddle version. Also you can straighten up the auger turns using a 2-hammer method (one in each hand). Once you make sure the auger is in good shape (cleaned of any rust and painted up nicely) then you can proceed to installing the auger bearings. When replacing the bearing you align the large chain sprocket on the auger with the opening in the housing where the chain goes thru. Once you've done this then you can align and shim the small chain sprocket with the large chain sprocket.
It's all pretty straight forward once you've gone over all the parts and get the complete understanding of the operation.
It's all pretty straight forward once you've gone over all the parts and get the complete understanding of the operation.
lkortkamp
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- Apr 7, 2009
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- Larry
Well, the driveshaft/coupler on my 149 finally was giving up the ghost. The rubber coupler was just about torn in 1/2. The drive pin on the motor side has been beat to pieces since the previous owner started using 1/4" bolts instead of a pin. About every other year I had to replace the bolt as it would shear from the excessive slop in the drive plate.
I have the capabilities of making anything new or rebuild it but time was of the essence so I just ordered everything from a sponsor here. Kudos for quick shipping.
I contacted CC specialties and ordered up a new driveshaft, coupler and front drive plate and pin. It showed up today and I quickly got it installed. Started the tractor to mow and after moving about 4 ft it went "clank" and stopped moving forward. Seems it threw that 1/4" pin out. I was kinda figuring it would as there is nothing there to hold it from the circular forces.
Is there something that is supposed to slip over that joint to hold the pin in? It has been missing since I bought the tractor about 8 years ago. I went to the garage and found a new stainless hose clamp that fit well enough to hold the pin in and get the yard mowed.
I have the capabilities of making anything new or rebuild it but time was of the essence so I just ordered everything from a sponsor here. Kudos for quick shipping.
I contacted CC specialties and ordered up a new driveshaft, coupler and front drive plate and pin. It showed up today and I quickly got it installed. Started the tractor to mow and after moving about 4 ft it went "clank" and stopped moving forward. Seems it threw that 1/4" pin out. I was kinda figuring it would as there is nothing there to hold it from the circular forces.
Is there something that is supposed to slip over that joint to hold the pin in? It has been missing since I bought the tractor about 8 years ago. I went to the garage and found a new stainless hose clamp that fit well enough to hold the pin in and get the yard mowed.
