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Archive through September 04, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Wayne-

The spacers are steel and slightly taller than the axle casting...the bolt clamps the spindle tight to the spacer, and the spacer rotates inside the axle. Nothing is rotating on the bolt.
 
Wayne S. If you look at the spacer I think you will find it slightly longer than the hole in the axle. When you assemble the spacer in the steering knuckle and tighten the knuckle bolt, the spacer is fixed solid to the steering knuckle and the only rotation is inside the axle hole so the grease only goes between the hole in the axle and the outside of the spacer. Only grease needed on the bolt is to keep it from rusting.

Hope this makes sense to you.

Matt types faster than I do.
 
Kinda ran into a wall with the 129 Hydro conversion. Got just about everything out of the 1650 donor tractor that I'll think I'll need except for the lift arm rockshaft. As you can see, someone had the bright idea to weld one of the lift arms in place. The only way I figure I might be able to get it out is to remove one of the rockshaft bushings, I don't know if they're welded or shrink fitted into place. Any ideas?

I guess the other thing I can check is if the rockshaft on the 129 will work as-is. If it's just a matter of removing the manual lift handle and ratchet mechanism, and installing the hydraulics, I'm wasting my time trying to get this piece out of the 1650.

BTW, got the pump out.

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Thanks to all that have helped. The spacers had to come out being in there so tight. I guess this is what happens after 20 or so years with no grease.
Thanks again, Wayne
 
KENDELL, MATT - Last idler I bought I priced my local Blain's F&F and the local CC/CIH dealer and I saved "BIG MONEY" at the CC/CIH dealer. Plus the F&F idler wasn't the same size as the OEM idler. I bought a replacement plus a spare so now when I need one on a Sunday I have it, for about the same $$$ as the F&F part.

RYAN W. - You gotta remember that most of these CC's were bought to mow barnyards & house yards of farms back when a Hundred Dollars was a WHOLE lot of Money. I spent more to rebuild & refurbish my 72 three years ago than My DAD paid for about FIVE of His CC's, and two of them were BRAND NEW. I guess that's why I don't get too excited by a "Factory Original Restoration" because I know the first time something needed to be repaired/replaced forty yrs ago It got bought at where ever the cheapest & closest replacement part was at.

I will admit that parts are actually cheaper now for the most part than they were 20-30 yrs ago. And in most cases they're just as good of quality.
 
Bruce-

Leave the rockshaft in both frames, and just change the arm on the right side...that's the only difference.
 
Thanks, now I can get the 1650 and my engine hoist where they belong, and go visit my sister and BIL the rest of the weekend. My brother in law is taking his '68 442 drag racing at Englishtown NJ tomorrow.
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Dennis:
I'm SURE we all look to our CCC dealers first, but when the need arises......
 
Hey folks, how's everyone's holiday weekend going so far?? It's been a while since I posted, but I just picked up a 1650 with dual hydraulics and had a question. Other than the power angle blade, what kinds of attachments are there that utilize the front hydraulic ports?? I read that Allied Equipment had some things back in the day, but I haven't been able to find any sort of listing as to what they might have been.

Thanks and have a good one...
 
Myron B.,
Thanks for the tranny casting # location information!
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I'll see what I can find out...

Dennis F.,
Yep, sometimes I need reminding that the way we do things today wasn't the way it was done 30-40 yrs ago. Thanks!
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It isn't that I was in diapers then, because I wasn't - but rather back then I was more into hot rod cars & motorcycles.
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Ryan Wilke
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<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>


quote: By DTanner on Friday, September 04, 2009 - 10:09 am:
Ryan, I have a 147 here that has a 'dual tube' K321A 2129875 spec 6099A serial is 433325 April 1972 I think.

quote: By RWilke on Friday, September 04, 2009 - 09:04 pm:
Don T.,
Are you sure about that tractor serial number?
Reason I question it is because according to the FAQ data chart, http://cubfaq.com/ihbuilt.html
it states that the 147 Cubs were built between 11-69 to 08-71 and were issued serial numbers between 316816 - 400000.

BUT - your 147 Cub serial # 433325 is beyond the indicated serial # range.
It would also indicate a build date of 04-72, also beyond the indicated production build date range. <!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

Don T.,
Maybe someone has switched out the rearend sometime in its past? That would explain the tag # issue........
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Ryan Wilke
 
Has anyone ever got a flywheel off a K321 without a gear puller? I forgot to borrow one from work and wanted to get this thing torn apart. It's not looking like this wants to come off real easy. Nick
 
nick its toughg, and takes a long time, its probably not too god for the motor either, i bought a 5 or 6 doller puller from NAPA in the bargin bin... its cheep but does the job, ive taken 5 or 6 flywheels off with it, i think its labeled as a steering wheel puller... good luck ive gotta go the grill is on fire!
 
Hey guys! I was putting the pto handle on the 104 today and it seems to be missing something. I have the little round spacer that goes through the handle but it wobbles around an awful lot. I checked out the parts look up on it and it shows that there is a spring or something that is supposed to go there? When I went down through the part numbers it said that the spring was "not used in this application". Is there supposed to be a spring in there? It didnt have one there when I originally stripped it down. Any help would rock! Thanks ahead.
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I got it off, screwdriver and a brass drift and hammer. Got everything torn apart and the crank is work where the bearing rides. That s!!ks. Nick
 
oops, I meant the crank is WORN on the previous post. Not work???? That's what night shift does to you. Nick
 
I had my birthday party today and i got supprised with this awsome cake my mom made,
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anyways, i got Hank Will's Bible and its awsome... i cant wait to read it, anyone that has cubs and is in love with em like i am HAS TO GET this book! i also got a custom shirt that has a pic of an O on the front and a wanted ad for cubs that i hung around town on the back, ill get a pic of that tomarrow, i at least got some seat time in at the party, i hauled the little kids around in the cart with the 71, but anyways im off to bed... going riden in the AM!
 
All the talk in the past few days about JD having a better 15U hydrostat linkage got me to thinking...why couldn't the CC linkage be replaced with a new setup designed like the JD? Problem is I don't have a clue what the JD linkage is like. Anybody got a picture, drawing, description, etc.?
 
Matt S, Your Mom is quite the artist, I like the detail
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Hey guys, I am working on putting every option available on my CC 124. I am looking in the operator's manual for the 1X4s and 1X5s on page 26. I have the Cigarette lighter,the creeper, lights, hydraulic lift, and the 3 point hitch. The options that i dont have, are listed as follows:Dual rear wheels, implement handle helper spring(spring assist), rear pto, rear IH wheel weights and utility box. Would i still need the spring assist to call it completely "option loaded"? Are these the only options that were available in 1968? If there were more and anyone knows of them, would you please let me know. Thanks, Josh
 
Josh, Even with hydraulic lift the spring assist is a good option to have. Usually you set the stop on the tractor slightly above the gauge wheel setting, this is an attemp to keep the gauge wheels from digging in and tearing up sod because of the wieght of the deck. By useing a spring assist it takes wieght off the deck, set properly you can let the gauge wheels do thier job and follow the conture of the ground directly
 
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