Archive through September 04, 2009

[jbaker]

Matt since you have a 782D i was wondering would the diesel be able to turn a larger pump or for that matter would a 14 or 16 hp gas cub turn a larger pump, not that i am going to try I was just wondering

 

[tdaugherty]

My 70. It's great. I keep it at my friends house for now, until i expand my shed. I won it at a raffle,(thats what the 361 tag is for)

 

[mgonitzke]

Jeff-

I'm sure you could put an auxiliary pump on there like a loader has, but you can't put a larger hydro unit on...the Case/Ingersoll tractors use a totally different trans design if I remember correctly.

 

[dross]

Richard sorry for the confusion. Deer bongs are whole different deal. You have to talk the deer into it.

 

[rwilke]

Fellas,
My son has located a 122 Cub with a D065198 (1968) 12HP Kohler engine. That's all good.
According to our FAQ charts, the production of 122 Cubs stopped in 11/67 with serial # 218009.

However, this tractor serial # is: 280827.

This is well beyond the stated end serial number and it would indicate a 12-68 build date.

The only thing I can think of is that it would have to be a 124 re-badged years ago as a 122??

Anyone have any other thoughts/ideas?

Ryan Wilke

 

[mgonitzke]

Ryan W.-

Somebody might have broken something in the rear and switched out the rear for a newer one.

 

[jbaker]

Matt i understand now it was just me think out loud in print, so what does everyone think about the side panals on the QL series do they need to be inplace for cooling somehow or are the just noise control and cosmetic because I leave mine off

 

[bbrigham]

The Case/Ingersol do not have a hydrostatic tranny like our Cubs, the engines drive a hydraulic pump with in turn drives a hydraulic motor. Their driven attachments have hydraulic motors also. It's actually a real simple system.

 

[rwilke]

Matt G.,
Hmmm,,,That's a very real possibility. I didn't think if that....

Ryan Wilke

 

[mbounds]

Ryan W: Check the engine Serial Number for year dating...Then check the dash...the 122 & the 124 were totally different...That'll tell you if they changed out the nose piece and the hood or just changed the rear-end (maybe incl the tranny so check the casting date there)....

Myron B

 

[mhomrighausen]

Jeff B. I leave the side panels on. They are designed for a purpose and it keeps me from stumbling over them when I need to get to something else.

Tim D. Sweet little 70. I need a raffle like that.

Off to clean the garage after a quick trip to Ames. Fancy already has his work bibs on. Everyone have a beautiful day.

 

[dfrisk]

RYAN - With the fantastic ability to swap parts around on these little tractors, everything from whole rearends & engines, Serial numbers don't mean much. I've mentioned before that Every IH/CC dealership I was in back in the late 1960's & early 1970's had a K241 or K301 complete IH-spec engine sitting on the parts counter. The CC 70 out in the shop DAD bought brand new the spring of 1965, the engine was rebuilt by a small engine shop the first time in '68, was rebuilt the second time by Dad & I in about '71 or '72, and was replaced with a new K181 in about '75 or '76. And I'm not sure at all where the supposed K181 in it now came from.

MARLIN, MATT G. - Hydraulics are pretty neat, I've been around farm tractor hydraulics all my life, and LOTS of construction & industrial equip. also. They're ALL about how much force You need or want and how much room You have for the components. High volume & low pressure means larger cylinders, pumps, hoses, valves, & reseroir. High pressure increases force in direct purportion to the increase. Twice the pressure equals twice the force.

MARLIN gives EXCELLENT ADVICE, once the pressure gets higher than a hundred PSI a leak has DEADLY POTENTIAL. The last thing Your body needs is to have hot high pressure hyd. oil injected INTO Your flesh.

 

[rwilke]

Myron B.,
Thanks for the thoughts & tips!

The engine serial # is '68, is it matches within the production range. I don't know the differences between the 122 and 124 dashes - so I guess I'll have to locate some dash pictures of each so as to to compare with this 122. Can you tell me where to locate the casting # on the tranny?


Dennis F.,
Yep, you make a good point about the interchangeability of the parts on these Cubs.
I find it very interesting that some of these Cubs have had a more 'colorful' life than I first supposed many times. You just gotta luv it!

Ryan Wilke

 

[etifft]

I have 1650 with the 50" mower deck. I just removed the cover to the pulleys as I was going to sharpen the blades when I noticed the idler pulley bearing is gone and the pulley is 1/2 way through the bolt holding it on.

I have the manual / parts list for everything but the mower deck. Can someone please help me with what / where I can get the parts required? The rest of the idler arm assembly looks ok except for the pulley (bearing, etc...) and the hardware holding the pulley to the arm.

I appreciate any help you folks are willing to give. You have been VERY helpful in the past.

Ed

 

[mgonitzke]

Edward T.-

Your local farm store will probably carry idler pulleys like that. I can't remember for sure, but I don't think the bolt is anything special either; just a 3/8" grade 5 bolt.

 

[kide]

Edward: I agree with Matt - I replaced the idler on my 48" deck with one from TSC a few years ago. It's a little hazy now, but the mounting hole on the idler arm might have needed reaming to the next larger bolt size... When you replace it, check alignment on the belt so that it's not scrubbing (again IIRC, my idler arm had gotten a slight bend in it, which skewed the belt slightly..)

Bobby B:
Need a warning when you're gonna post snake pics, especially when they're in that "S" shape and mighty PO'd... I startle easily

 

[mbounds]

RyanW: The casting code is found on the left side (and it may be upside down!). It is raised numerals for the day and month and a letter for the year between two raised *s. The letter for 1967 (found in many 68 model Cub Cadets) is the letter N. The code letter for 1968 is the letter O (not a zero!). Please do not extrapolate the letters to other years....IH did not use all the same letters from year to year..some were deleted in some years , then used again...etc, etc..

Myron B

 

[rpalmer]

Here is why you need to remove your amp gauge if it is bouncing.

There is no other way to see this crack in the POS plastic.

 

[wshytle]

OK Guys, I have a question (or two). I just had an idiot remove the spindle spacers on a 1250 front axle. He burred both of them to the point I can't use them by using improper technique. How are these spacers and the bolt lubricated with the grease fitting? Are the spacers an oilite type of metal? I thought there would be a hole through the spacer for the grease to get to the bolt. The bolts were very dry but both grease fittings were missing as well. One of the spindles was frozen and that's the reason I wanted to remove the spacer. I'm calling what looks to be a bushing a spacer. It's part #8 on the parts lookup for the front axle and they call it the steering knuckle spacer. I have searched the FAQs and there's a world of info there but I'm getting old and need just a couple of questions answered. I couldn't find any specifics there pertaining to this part. Any information will be appreciated. Thanks, Wayne

 

[dlouw]

I've started "resurrecting" a 1967 102 and since the paints listed under FAQ is not available over here in South Africa, I need to match as best as I can. My best sample is behind the weights, or inside the wheel rims. Any other suggestions how I can get a better sample will be appreciated. If color swabs are available for airmailing, it may help. It's just that the beautifully restored tractors on this site looks more white, than the (IH 901) cream.