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Archive through September 04, 2009
- Thread starter aaytay
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Hey - that's the lost drain plug outta my lawn roller.....
As far as I know, all the black Kohlers are aftermarket replacement engines...Maybe whoever put it in put the original tag on... - nah, nobody would do that...
As far as I know, all the black Kohlers are aftermarket replacement engines...Maybe whoever put it in put the original tag on... - nah, nobody would do that...
Kraig,
Tire Bong....my wife already thinks I'm crazy if I start talking about a tire bong....YIKES. Cool link though....some forgotton pics in there!
Art,
Hmmmmm PTO driven fluid fill...Gives me an idea for a PTO Driven Adult Beverage Mixing Devive.
Anyhow...BYOF and cordless drill and fill all you want at any plow day I'm at!
Dennis,
Good eye on the Rockwell drill! I love quality tools...I always reach for the Rockwell over my B&D drills.
Tire Bong....my wife already thinks I'm crazy if I start talking about a tire bong....YIKES. Cool link though....some forgotton pics in there!
Art,
Hmmmmm PTO driven fluid fill...Gives me an idea for a PTO Driven Adult Beverage Mixing Devive.
Anyhow...BYOF and cordless drill and fill all you want at any plow day I'm at!
Dennis,
Good eye on the Rockwell drill! I love quality tools...I always reach for the Rockwell over my B&D drills.
Don T.,
Thanks for sharing your data!
Strait H.,
Yep, that sounds like another of the the elusive 'dual tube' Kohler engines. Thanks for sharing your data!
Your lower, LH (carb side) dipstick near the points cover should have full/add marks on it, correct?
Interesting, yours is only the 3rd K301 (12HP) 'dual tube' engine that's been reported.
<font color="0000ff">Would you also please tell me what model Cub your 'dual tube' engine came in and the tractor serial number?</font>
As Bruce N. mentioned, that looks to be a past owner/operator's replacement plug for the top tube.
It is not what was a typical 'factory issue' top stick.
<font color="0000ff">Maybe someone could post a pic of their top tube stick with the wording visible?</font>
I also originally thought that a riveted data plate meant it was NOT a replacement engine.
However, that theory has not proven true.
About half of the riveted plate engines we've documented have a Spec # which indicated the engine was intended as a 'Replacement/Universal Service Engine'.
It is also my understanding that a Kohler engine painted black was to indicate it was a Replacement engine.
Your Spec # 47376b indicates that it IS a Replacement engine!
<font color="0000ff">Did you think yours was a Replacement engine?</font>
Ryan Wilke
Thanks for sharing your data!
Strait H.,
Yep, that sounds like another of the the elusive 'dual tube' Kohler engines. Thanks for sharing your data!
Your lower, LH (carb side) dipstick near the points cover should have full/add marks on it, correct?
Interesting, yours is only the 3rd K301 (12HP) 'dual tube' engine that's been reported.
<font color="0000ff">Would you also please tell me what model Cub your 'dual tube' engine came in and the tractor serial number?</font>
As Bruce N. mentioned, that looks to be a past owner/operator's replacement plug for the top tube.
It is not what was a typical 'factory issue' top stick.
<font color="0000ff">Maybe someone could post a pic of their top tube stick with the wording visible?</font>
I also originally thought that a riveted data plate meant it was NOT a replacement engine.
However, that theory has not proven true.
About half of the riveted plate engines we've documented have a Spec # which indicated the engine was intended as a 'Replacement/Universal Service Engine'.
It is also my understanding that a Kohler engine painted black was to indicate it was a Replacement engine.
Your Spec # 47376b indicates that it IS a Replacement engine!
<font color="0000ff">Did you think yours was a Replacement engine?</font>
Ryan Wilke
mstetar
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2008
- Messages
- 510
- displayname
- Matt (Diesel Creek)
ok i pulled the motor from the 149 i got last week and saw what the problem was.... the piston was blowen appart and the motor was locked... upon further inspection the pison wasnt holding it in there... and it wasnt internal... you guy's are never gonna beleive this but it is rat crap! there was a nest on top of the flywheel and all the droppings fell down between the flywheel an bearing plate, it turned into rock! its very hard, ive got a screwdriver burried down in it and i cant get it out... it looked lose and powdery at first but its rock hard,,, i dont know what to do any suggestions, i know this is a wild one!
Richard if you'd like to do just a quick field test on the beer bong drill a 3/4" hole in the bottom of the full can, (holding the can upside down). Now place the hole you just drilled directly over your open mouth and pop the top on the can. This I believe (yea we know how what I believe can go) is a beer shotgun. a deer bong is the same basic princible only you replace the can with a large pre-filled funnel. PS if your worried about getting cut on the sharp hole you cut in the can you (A) are to old to be doing this or (B) havent drank enough yet.
Dave. I have seen injuries from that....stabbed myself in the hand using a buck knife to make the hole, but seeing as I was a young Marine at the time, a told my buds I did it on purpose,,,Oh to be young and dumb again!! LOL
jbaker
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- Nov 10, 2008
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- 4,144
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- jeff l baker
has any one built or bought a log splitter that is mounted on the back of a cub and ran off the cub power? i saw a add on craigslist for a guy who splitts wood with his tractor, and i have not seen this before? here is the link http://rockford.craigslist.org/grd/1357173058.html I am thinking this would be usefull if it can be done
Bruce,
A bilge plug is exactly what it looks like but it has a very industrial look and fits very well in the tube. There is even a ring/tab on the shaft that is designed to put a chain on it. It does the job so I will keep using it.
Ryan W,
The carb side dipstick does have fill/add marks. Top although black and dirty seems to be brass and there is an ‘o’ ring to keep it in tight.
Model is a 127 and serial # is 205 00040 U 361226 (October 1970)
When I went to look at the dip stick markings I looked a little more at the engine, which is out of the tractor. The oil pan and lower part of the block have yellow showing through the black paint, scraping on the tin shows that there may be yellow there also. I only thought is was a replacement because of comments here on the forum. I have NO history on this tractor but it had been outside and neglected by previous owner.
Does the presence of the tube on the S/G side indicate my engine has balance gears?
A bilge plug is exactly what it looks like but it has a very industrial look and fits very well in the tube. There is even a ring/tab on the shaft that is designed to put a chain on it. It does the job so I will keep using it.
Ryan W,
The carb side dipstick does have fill/add marks. Top although black and dirty seems to be brass and there is an ‘o’ ring to keep it in tight.
Model is a 127 and serial # is 205 00040 U 361226 (October 1970)
When I went to look at the dip stick markings I looked a little more at the engine, which is out of the tractor. The oil pan and lower part of the block have yellow showing through the black paint, scraping on the tin shows that there may be yellow there also. I only thought is was a replacement because of comments here on the forum. I have NO history on this tractor but it had been outside and neglected by previous owner.
Does the presence of the tube on the S/G side indicate my engine has balance gears?
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Jeff B.-
The case tractors have more powerful aux. hydraulics than our Cubs do. You'd be better off mounting one on a trailer and pulling it behind the tractor.
Matt S.-
Take the flywheel off for easy access.
The case tractors have more powerful aux. hydraulics than our Cubs do. You'd be better off mounting one on a trailer and pulling it behind the tractor.
Matt S.-
Take the flywheel off for easy access.
Well guys, it's been awhile since I posted but.......summer projects...either way I transformed a JD guy I work with into a cub cadet owner. He bought his JD 110 new in 72 or close to that. He found a Cub 1541 (I know that isn't one of our real cubs) with 2 mower decks, a snow plow, a snow thrower, and wheel weights for $900. But hey, it's a start anyway! He asked me to go over after work the other day and show him the ins and outs of a cub, so I did. Not a bad looking machine. I did let him know that my 149 and my "O" was nicer though. lol.
Hey Kraig, I finally finished my O and mowed with it a few times this year. Did a great job.
Next project is rebuilding the engine in the 149 before the snow starts flying. Nick
Hey Kraig, I finally finished my O and mowed with it a few times this year. Did a great job.
Next project is rebuilding the engine in the 149 before the snow starts flying. Nick
mhomrighausen
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- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Richard C. Sad part of the JD hydro control system idea is Sunstrand thought it up and not John Deere. I sure agree that Cub Cadet should have listened to the Mr. Charlie Ricketts, the Sunstrand engineer.
Fancy and I like the zig zag Cub Cadets. Angel didn't get a picture of him riding while we mowed lawn tonight so here are two pictures of him helping disc the garden this spring.
Fancy and I like the zig zag Cub Cadets. Angel didn't get a picture of him riding while we mowed lawn tonight so here are two pictures of him helping disc the garden this spring.
rchristensen
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- Aug 12, 2006
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- 933
- displayname
- Richard Christensen
Marlin H. maybe IH should have listened to that old saying (Dont re-invent the wheel).
When I first started working on these hydros I contacted Sauer / Sundstrand and they refered me to a local distributor here in Poenix. Thats where I got a lot of the repair manuals and information. This U type transmission is used in a lot of different equipment and more rugged operating conditions than Lawn tractors. I would like to see what kind of controls they use in some other types of equipment.
When I first started working on these hydros I contacted Sauer / Sundstrand and they refered me to a local distributor here in Poenix. Thats where I got a lot of the repair manuals and information. This U type transmission is used in a lot of different equipment and more rugged operating conditions than Lawn tractors. I would like to see what kind of controls they use in some other types of equipment.
mhomrighausen
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Jeff B. Case garden tractors are hydraulic driven and not hydrostatic so that is a basic right there. Matt G. is correct about the pressure.
Now some fun things you never cared to think about... The original hydraulic pumps on the early FARMALL tractors (H and M and the retrofit to the F Series) only put out around 4-500 pounds or pressure. Later models of the pump were upgraded to between 6-700 pounds pressure. SSSsssooo... both pumps you could say put out about the same pressure as a non and ported hydro. It was something of a pain to try and upgrade the older models since they were built to different specs. I've heard of a couple of fellas using the old FARMALL Lift-All pumps for log splitters only this has been many years back. VOLUME is what makes the difference. If you want to have a bigger cylinder and are used to the wait of a low volume pump AND have a nice big reservior then you can use a smaller pump to make a log splitter. Where I took flack posting recently about not increasing the pressure on a 15U to make a tree shear is not only the fact they weren't built for such however there is a safety factor to consider. Has anyone ever heard of a hydraulic leak where the hole is so small that the leak is literally invisible to the naked eye? This is similar to how they cut certain food products using a water jet on a continuous moving conveyor belt. The belt moves contiually and you see the product being cut only you don't see what is cutting it. The hole is so small and therefore the pressure is so great that if you were to move your finger across the cutting area you would lose your finger or have it severely cut immediately. Now back to beefing up a pump to "fit your needs." Sure .... go ahead and beef up the pump if that is your wildest desire. I don't recommend it however it is your pump. Remember however that in doing so make double and triple sure that the rest of the system is also beefed up. To have something else fail because of a "I beefed up the pump and not everything else" is potential for injury. Therefore I like Matt G.s' suggestion about using a Cub Cadet hydro pump for a log spliter. Quote.... You'd be better off mounting one on a trailer and pulling it behind the tractor.
I'm off to bed. Catch ya all tomorrow.
Now some fun things you never cared to think about... The original hydraulic pumps on the early FARMALL tractors (H and M and the retrofit to the F Series) only put out around 4-500 pounds or pressure. Later models of the pump were upgraded to between 6-700 pounds pressure. SSSsssooo... both pumps you could say put out about the same pressure as a non and ported hydro. It was something of a pain to try and upgrade the older models since they were built to different specs. I've heard of a couple of fellas using the old FARMALL Lift-All pumps for log splitters only this has been many years back. VOLUME is what makes the difference. If you want to have a bigger cylinder and are used to the wait of a low volume pump AND have a nice big reservior then you can use a smaller pump to make a log splitter. Where I took flack posting recently about not increasing the pressure on a 15U to make a tree shear is not only the fact they weren't built for such however there is a safety factor to consider. Has anyone ever heard of a hydraulic leak where the hole is so small that the leak is literally invisible to the naked eye? This is similar to how they cut certain food products using a water jet on a continuous moving conveyor belt. The belt moves contiually and you see the product being cut only you don't see what is cutting it. The hole is so small and therefore the pressure is so great that if you were to move your finger across the cutting area you would lose your finger or have it severely cut immediately. Now back to beefing up a pump to "fit your needs." Sure .... go ahead and beef up the pump if that is your wildest desire. I don't recommend it however it is your pump. Remember however that in doing so make double and triple sure that the rest of the system is also beefed up. To have something else fail because of a "I beefed up the pump and not everything else" is potential for injury. Therefore I like Matt G.s' suggestion about using a Cub Cadet hydro pump for a log spliter. Quote.... You'd be better off mounting one on a trailer and pulling it behind the tractor.
I'm off to bed. Catch ya all tomorrow.
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Richard C. Just read your post. I've seen an electric switch installed on a 15U series as well as a lot of manual linkage still and yet. They used to use them on skid laoders and I think they still do on smaller models. Although I see them built and have inspected them on the paint line, I've never really paid attention to where they go to for customers. There are also different variations of the 15 Series out there then just the 15U series. You are correct about being used in more than just Lawn and garden products. A version could be used in a piece of construction equipment or farm equipment. When one is around them throughout the work week then you seldom pay attention to them. Like everyone says... They are built like a tank.
