Archive through September 04, 2007

[rtunison]

The 129 was getting harder and harder to start due to what I thought was the 5yr. old walmart L/G battery. A new 350cca yeilded the same result. Hummm, Myron Bound's drumming into our heads the advantages of proper grounding was the cure. I did shine every connection on the tractor....... positive or negative. First time moving the gas tank to get to the guts of pedistal. What a mess and every connection was gooey. I relocated the ground wire in the battery box directly to the frame in an unused hole. Shined it up top and bottom. As a side note the tractor will come apart this winter for paint and the areas of raw steel will sport dielectric grease.

Oh yea,,,,,,,, with everything getting great contact the tractor rolled over like I couldn't believe. Started on the second revolution with gusto. Take the time to clean the contacts.

 

[tmcall]

Thanks for the informations gentlemen.

 

[mbounds]

Richard T: Glad you got the electrical sysetm back in good order. Your "fix the ground" connections experience should serve as a valuable lesson to others....As you found out, it is critical to have a good clean ground...

Myron B

 

[prightmyer]

My dad always told me "you can never have too many ground wires".

 

[digger]

Richard T.
One more thing that will help for later on. If you will coat everything with dielectric grease before you put it back together, you won't have to mess with ever again more than likely.

 

[aschumacher]

Charlie, stay out of the sandbox for a while, my cats digging around in it right now...

 

[jcrews]

Hello
I was out with the 782 and the deck started sounding like one of the blades hitting the deck wall. I looked and determined the main spindle wobbled slightly . Is it worth it to try and replace the spindle and what is easiest,or try to get a new spindle? Thanks

 

[kmcconaughey]

Jarrod, where were you a month or so ago when I gave a runner and end plate from a 42" deck away? Too bad I don't have any more spares, oh well, not sure the 42" parts would fit a 38" deck anyway..... I'm amazed that the parts are still available new. I think if it were me I'd do just like you did and place an add in the classifieds for used parts first.

 

[mdomenic]

This is the welder that is the best buy for the money. The nice thing about it has some real POWER or you can turn it down and weld sheet metal no problem. Granted its not a Hobart or Miller but it works.

The next most important thing is the rod, see the next pic. Certanium rod was changed. to Cromatron. It has a high nickel content and is good for at least 35K 70K tinsel strength.
Kentuk you can strighten me out if you see any thing wrong with my statement...

 

[kweaver]

Matt - I can do !
<u>Miller and Hobart aint now Lincoln !</u>
I'd trade my 460amp Miller TIG in a heart beat for an old Idealarc Lincoln TIG !!

I started with a 225 Lincoln "buzz box" back in '72 and I welded up busted dozer parts with it and they never broke. The old 225's will burn a 1/8" 7018 low hydrogen rod where the old 230 Crapsman's wouldn't. Just watch the duty cycle

Crank that one down to 60 and use a 6013 and it'll write your name on sheet metal.

 

[mdomenic]

Edward T.

What you just discoverd is what we all have known for years and years. Not very many machines were built like an IH Cub Cadet and they will never again be built like that. It would cost to much to manufacture. I like fixing broken stuff but I hate working on machine stamp pooly engineered tractors made for the average consumer. Where most people went wrong that owned Cubs in the beginning is after they started to wear out they simply went out and purchased a new unit not realizing that they just let go of the best tractor ever made. A minor reconditioning and you could out last any new machine bult today.

 

[jpmoore]

Kraig; Yep, I'll give my want ad a while, and if nothing used shows up I'll have to rig up a homemade deal. It won't be pretty, but it'll work. $75 just for a runner is way too much $$ for me, and that doesn't even include the cap/plate price...which the guy at the dealer couldn't find a part # for. Time will tell.

 

[kweaver]

Jarrod - Did you try the parts lookup link above ? You might want to double check your parts guy.

 

[dfrisk]

MATT, KEN - Only suggestion on the old Buzz-Box's I'd make is spend the extra $100-$200 for the AC/DC version. Dad had a Miller Thunderbolt 225 AC/DC and I was always amazed what He could stick together with that thing. 'Course He'd been patching up worn-out farm equipment for about 40 yrs already with the AC buzz-box I have at home when He bought that welder back in about 1985. I got the old Wil-Weld 200A AC with the strict orders that when the Smoke went out of the Miller I had about an HOUR to get the Wil-Weld back in Dad's shop so He could finish up whatever He was working on. That never happened to the Miller but it wasn't because of lack of trying....Dad had a 10# box of #100-18 1/8" rod He used half of for something. Probably making a Big round bale cart for His Brother. I bet the old Thunderbolt was WIDE OPEN that day!

Lot's of forums I read get into the contests of which box is better.....red or blue. Every manufacturing plant or foundry that I've ever been in that does PRODUCTION welding has had blue. Kinda like chainsaws....Stihl or Husky....both work and are the right tool for LOTS of jobs. My local welding shop supports parts for Miller WAY better than Lincoln. I haven't needed anything yet for My MIG or TIG, MIG is 7-8 yrs old, TIG almost two. Just use wire & gas.

 

[dhassler]

I guess I'll look around for a Lincoln 225, I've could have used one twice in one week now, thanks for the advice guys.

 

[rwilke]

Jarrod M.,
From the Parts Look Up link above, it appears to me that there were three types of 38" decks available. The decks of '63-'68 didn't have runners rather had cast-iron end pieces, from '68-'71 the decks had round runners, and from '71-'74 the decks had the half-moon style runners. Sounds like you need a LH mower runner and LH housing side plate off of a '68-'71 38" deck; Runner part# IH-489347-R2, Side Plate part# IH-499344-R2.

I'd guess you should be able to track down both pieces in used condition without too much stress......
Good Luck!
Ryan W

 

[jharvey]

Tony Mcall
My #1 149 had the same problem. The rear bushing that the axle pin rests in had broken away and the fix was to reweld it.
JH

 

[rwilke]

Hi Guys:
In case anyone was wondering the continuing saga of my 129 that broke its leg (front axle) upon hitting a tree, here's an update:

I finally got the wounded ol' guy off the tree butt and back up to the garage, not an easy task but it did take the neighbor's 9N to 'git-r-dun'.
I put him up on blocks and removed his deck and mule drive just to give me more room, if needed. After I removed the center axle pivot pin spirol pin at the front of the axle channel, the pivot pin came out easy enough via tapping it from behind, underneath the engine oil pan. I was glad I did not need to remove the engine. Upon cleaning, it was determined that the pivot pin is shot. The channel is plenty sloppy as well, so I'll need to give it the Krag McC's "C-Clamp Treatment". Three of the tie-rod ends are either broken or worn sloppy enough that they should be replaced. Both tie rod bars are bent at one end, however, I believe I can straighten them in the bench vise; if not, I'll need to replace them as well. The left tire hit the tree so its not surprising that the left spindle casting also broke (the side section that runs from top to bottom of the spindle, on the tire side).

A friend of mine thinks he can weld the axle back together; and with a small piece of steel set snuggly up against both sides of the axle then drilled and bolted, for extra strength, it may be fine. I'm not so convinced at this point and may just locate a new-to-me axle and spindle. I'm thinking I will need to buy tie-rod ends and a center pivot pin for sure.

Any thoughts/comments/advice out there?

Thanks in Advance!
Ryan W

 

[kmcconaughey]

Ryan, the splint and weld treatment might work as a stop gap until you can locate a suitable replacement axle, can't hurt too much to give it a try. BTW, closing the axle channel back up is not my idea, I only propagated it. I've heard that a "C" clamp doesn't wrok so well to close it up, the best way is with a nut and bolt through the axle pivot holes as Richard C. describes: <blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

By Richard Christensen, Arizona is Hot but its a Dry Heat (Rchristensen) on Sunday, February 01, 2004 - 11:02 am:

When ever I have an engine out I use a bolt like this to squeeze the frame until I can just force the front axle back in. If the pin is wore I will replace it at that time and it seems to stay tight for normal use. If you do a lot of plowing in a rough field where you bang the front axle a lot you may want a bolt to keep tightening it, but for mowing it should last another 30 years.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

Note that the bolt would be placed into the axle pivot hole not just on top like Richard has it placed for the photo.

 

[jharvey]

Ryan
Unless originality is important to you you're not limited to just wide frame replacement axles. My 109 has a 106 axle I obtained at a flea market for $10 and that included the spindles and linkages. It only required one modification to the drag link arm and while not a "super steer" mod it seems to be better than the original axle. JH