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Archive through October 25, 2007
- Thread starter bbrigham
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bbrigham
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- Brendan Brigham
Gonna make new bracket. Was gonna bore the axle to use the O spimdles but that would have put it 3" taller yet. With the 129 axle it's already too tall but will remady that with 25x10x12 Swamp Witch tires to level it back out. Might have to look at changing the collum tomarrow, I've got more spares.
Bren
Bren
I'm not sure this is the correct spot for this but -
Hello All, new here but not new to Cub Cadets. I have owned a 129 and 149 in the past. I have found a 169 that seems like a good deal. The motor has been rebuilt a few years ago. It comes with a deck and blower. It does not have hydro lift. It's a little rusty but not too bad. I would like to get some idea what something like this is worth? Also, any addition info?
Thanks in advance,
Jason
Hello All, new here but not new to Cub Cadets. I have owned a 129 and 149 in the past. I have found a 169 that seems like a good deal. The motor has been rebuilt a few years ago. It comes with a deck and blower. It does not have hydro lift. It's a little rusty but not too bad. I would like to get some idea what something like this is worth? Also, any addition info?
Thanks in advance,
Jason
Brendan
Another thing you could do is switch to narrow rims and go with the 3.50-8 tri-ribs, they will lower the front a bit it needed.
I probly know the answer to this question but I want to double check here first.
Will the rearend form a 102 bolt in place on a 100?
The rearend in the 100 is jumping out of reverse and 2nd gear with little preasure on the rearend and will jump out of 1st & 3rd pulling a heavy load. I have had to tighten up the bolts that hold the shift forks in place inside the tranny once befor and they must have worked loose again, and no I did not put any lock-tite on the threads.
When I had the old 102 running it never jumped out of reverse, 1st or 3rd gears and would only jump out of 2nd with a heavy load auch as pulling a moldboard plow in heavy ground or pulling a pulling sled down the track.
Another thing you could do is switch to narrow rims and go with the 3.50-8 tri-ribs, they will lower the front a bit it needed.
I probly know the answer to this question but I want to double check here first.
Will the rearend form a 102 bolt in place on a 100?
The rearend in the 100 is jumping out of reverse and 2nd gear with little preasure on the rearend and will jump out of 1st & 3rd pulling a heavy load. I have had to tighten up the bolts that hold the shift forks in place inside the tranny once befor and they must have worked loose again, and no I did not put any lock-tite on the threads.
When I had the old 102 running it never jumped out of reverse, 1st or 3rd gears and would only jump out of 2nd with a heavy load auch as pulling a moldboard plow in heavy ground or pulling a pulling sled down the track.
bbrigham
Well-known member
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- Brendan Brigham
The rims on there now are junkers just there for mock up, got narrow rims with 4x8s for it in the shed. I thought the 3.50s might look a little out of praportion with it being taller and bigger rears. I could also cut the spindles off and remount the higher. I will wait to concider that till I get the runnin tires on it.
Bren
Bren
Larry-James-Thomas-Ken
This past summer I worked on a fork lift that kept blowing coils and condensers. It had an external resistor,which I found was letting full charging system voltage through to the coil. The resistor looked okay,but my meter said otherwise.I replaced the resistor and the damaged coil,no more problems. I have been a mechanic for 40 yrs and had never run into that before.Larry,use a digital meter and check all your numbers. The Kohler engine manual section #8 has a lot of good info also. There are two basic types of traditional coils,ones that use an external resistor(or resistance wire) or ones that receive full charging system voltage and the resistor is built in to the coil. THey may or may not be marked as to which type they are.
This past summer I worked on a fork lift that kept blowing coils and condensers. It had an external resistor,which I found was letting full charging system voltage through to the coil. The resistor looked okay,but my meter said otherwise.I replaced the resistor and the damaged coil,no more problems. I have been a mechanic for 40 yrs and had never run into that before.Larry,use a digital meter and check all your numbers. The Kohler engine manual section #8 has a lot of good info also. There are two basic types of traditional coils,ones that use an external resistor(or resistance wire) or ones that receive full charging system voltage and the resistor is built in to the coil. THey may or may not be marked as to which type they are.
Wayne - Looks like you would have noticed the points burning up with the coil getting to much voltage. I've had them get burnt bad but until they do it sure starts better with 12v hitting the points 
I guess you remember the old cars with the 2 circuts, one with 12v to start on, then switched to the resistor to run on (6-9v). I've still got a double resistor here somewhere I keep for hard times.
One thing I had problems with on my old (long gone) little K241/Lincoln welder was that seemed like everytime I needed to use it I had to put a new condensor on it to get it to start. It was "rope wrap" so there was no external voltage involved. I never could figure out what was killing the condensor.
Brendan - That setup looks like it gave you a lot better ground clearence up front.
Jason - Go back to the front page and <font color="ff0000">READ THE RULES</font> for this forum section.
I guess you remember the old cars with the 2 circuts, one with 12v to start on, then switched to the resistor to run on (6-9v). I've still got a double resistor here somewhere I keep for hard times. One thing I had problems with on my old (long gone) little K241/Lincoln welder was that seemed like everytime I needed to use it I had to put a new condensor on it to get it to start. It was "rope wrap" so there was no external voltage involved. I never could figure out what was killing the condensor.
Brendan - That setup looks like it gave you a lot better ground clearence up front.
Jason - Go back to the front page and <font color="ff0000">READ THE RULES</font> for this forum section.
Jason,
Welcome to the forum.
Accessing values on CC's is something the forum doesn't do. I'd suggest looking through local papers or the classified of this web site. That will give you a good ballpark/idea as to the worth of the tractor.
A tractor's value is kind of a hot potatoe because there are many variables factored into the tractor's worth, not the least being, how much it's worth to you.
Given the heft and toughness of these machines and given the price of a brand new tractor that is todays's equivalent, you can't go wrong buying a used CC. Figure on doing some wrenching, tho. There's always something worn or wallowed out on them.
Welcome to the forum.
Accessing values on CC's is something the forum doesn't do. I'd suggest looking through local papers or the classified of this web site. That will give you a good ballpark/idea as to the worth of the tractor.
A tractor's value is kind of a hot potatoe because there are many variables factored into the tractor's worth, not the least being, how much it's worth to you.
Given the heft and toughness of these machines and given the price of a brand new tractor that is todays's equivalent, you can't go wrong buying a used CC. Figure on doing some wrenching, tho. There's always something worn or wallowed out on them.
Ray & Ken - Sorry to break the rules right off the bat. In the rules it says "Asking if a certain amount for a tractor is worth buying it for is fine". I guess I misread this. To comply with the rules, I should have put that the seller is asking $300 for it. Does this seem like an appropriate price for this tractor? Also, any additional info would be appreciated.
Thanks again,
Jason
Thanks again,
Jason
Jason, $300 for a running 169 with a mower and snowthrower would be a good price. If I were you I'd buy it, or better yet tell me where it is and I'll go buy it! I see you're in Minnesota, not that far away from me.
Ken
The points were nearly new and still looked good.I well remember the "resistor bypass circuit". Back to the Cub Cadet coil problem,take your time and troubleshoot thoroughly and you will most likely find the problem.Let us know what you find.
The points were nearly new and still looked good.I well remember the "resistor bypass circuit". Back to the Cub Cadet coil problem,take your time and troubleshoot thoroughly and you will most likely find the problem.Let us know what you find.
McDonald's, no wait, it's not golden and there's only one, St. Louis.
KENtucky,<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>
Missed it... by that much!<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
Missed it... by that much!<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>
