EDWARD - The Gliptol I've seen has a shiny smooth finish on it to speed oil return in engines, etc and seal burned-in sand from the casting process so it doesn't get into the oil. The sealer used on all castings by IH has a matte finish, like red oxide primer. It performs the same sealing function, and protects iron castings from rust but I don't think it's Gliptol. Even though I delt with the contract co's that applied the stuff they never really said what it was.
LARRY C. - The original tires on CCs were 2-ply rated and two actual plies of nylon. There are reinforcing plies around the tire bead, and even high tensile steel wire wound inside the beads to give the beads strength to grip the rim tightly to transmit torque. Those reinforcing plies don't add to the ply count, only the plies that wrap from tire bead to tire bead count as plies.
A 4-ply tire would have a higher inflation pressure and be able to carry more weight like on frt tires for a loader tractor, but for everything else a 2-ply tire is plenty. The 26-12.00X12 Firestones I put on my 982 years ago are 4-ply, and they were much stiffer and harder to mount that 2-ply, and also stiffer in use, I normally run them about 4-5 PSI where my other 2-ply rear tires run 8-10 PSI. I inflate them so they get full width bar/lug contact on the ground.
I don't think cotton has been used in tire casings for 50 yrs or more, except in special cases, but the nylon GY used in their garden tractor tires acts like cotton when it ages, gets weak and flexes then breaks and the tire blows. That's why I'm switching from GY to F'stone.
BILL J. - The wear on the brass or fiber button on the manual PTO's is at it's maximum when the PTO is disengaged until the pulley finally stops. If you don't have a PTO powered attachment mounted the manual says to engage the PTO when the engine is running to reduce button wear. The manual PTO is remarkably durable, and will allow feathering into engagement, but it is possible to over-heat the fliber clutch disk & the steel & iron pressure plates, but that would take minutes of feathering, not seconds.
Not sure why you brass button wore, normally they last almost forever. Can't say I've heard anyone say they wore one out.
My old 129 would get the engagement lever out of location and spit the fiber button out every now & then, once every year or two so I kept spare fiber buttons on hand. Sometimes I had to pull the PTO lever back farther, and idle the engine down, that crack the throttle to get the clutch to release and disengage. That was a sign it was time to adjust the PTO turnbuckle.
And lastly, here's a magnetic heater similar to one I bought 30 yrs ago to warm my Kohler up for snow removal duty,http://www.amazon.com/Kats-1153-Handi-Heat-Magnetic-Heater/dp/B000BOABS6 It sticks fine to the flat bottom cast iron oil pans on the K181 & K241's I used it on. I think it'd even stick to the deep sump cast iron pan on the K321. But like Gerry says, good luck getting it to stick to an aluminum pan. KRAIG uses a similar heater on his hydro I believe.
LARRY C. - The original tires on CCs were 2-ply rated and two actual plies of nylon. There are reinforcing plies around the tire bead, and even high tensile steel wire wound inside the beads to give the beads strength to grip the rim tightly to transmit torque. Those reinforcing plies don't add to the ply count, only the plies that wrap from tire bead to tire bead count as plies.
A 4-ply tire would have a higher inflation pressure and be able to carry more weight like on frt tires for a loader tractor, but for everything else a 2-ply tire is plenty. The 26-12.00X12 Firestones I put on my 982 years ago are 4-ply, and they were much stiffer and harder to mount that 2-ply, and also stiffer in use, I normally run them about 4-5 PSI where my other 2-ply rear tires run 8-10 PSI. I inflate them so they get full width bar/lug contact on the ground.
I don't think cotton has been used in tire casings for 50 yrs or more, except in special cases, but the nylon GY used in their garden tractor tires acts like cotton when it ages, gets weak and flexes then breaks and the tire blows. That's why I'm switching from GY to F'stone.
BILL J. - The wear on the brass or fiber button on the manual PTO's is at it's maximum when the PTO is disengaged until the pulley finally stops. If you don't have a PTO powered attachment mounted the manual says to engage the PTO when the engine is running to reduce button wear. The manual PTO is remarkably durable, and will allow feathering into engagement, but it is possible to over-heat the fliber clutch disk & the steel & iron pressure plates, but that would take minutes of feathering, not seconds.
Not sure why you brass button wore, normally they last almost forever. Can't say I've heard anyone say they wore one out.
My old 129 would get the engagement lever out of location and spit the fiber button out every now & then, once every year or two so I kept spare fiber buttons on hand. Sometimes I had to pull the PTO lever back farther, and idle the engine down, that crack the throttle to get the clutch to release and disengage. That was a sign it was time to adjust the PTO turnbuckle.
And lastly, here's a magnetic heater similar to one I bought 30 yrs ago to warm my Kohler up for snow removal duty,http://www.amazon.com/Kats-1153-Handi-Heat-Magnetic-Heater/dp/B000BOABS6 It sticks fine to the flat bottom cast iron oil pans on the K181 & K241's I used it on. I think it'd even stick to the deep sump cast iron pan on the K321. But like Gerry says, good luck getting it to stick to an aluminum pan. KRAIG uses a similar heater on his hydro I believe.
