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Archive through October 23, 2012
- Thread starter drglinski
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Dan G - you should feel fortunate you have this little period. If I were you I'd be doing the routine maintenance, oil change, tune up check, and even washing and waxing your 147 (yup, wax her up and she'll look better and be easier to clean up next time).
DAN - My last mow was 35 days ago today, and grass hasn't grown a half inch since then, but I've got about 4-5 trees that have a few leaves left to drop then I put the mulch plate on the 982/50C deck and chew up the leaves good. Then the aerator goes on the #72 and I poke about two million holes 3 to 3-1/2 inches deep in the yard, hopefully before the first snow. I have aerated thru 4-5 inch snow drifts before, and in pretty heavy snow showers.... but that kinda takes the fun out of seat time. As long as I get those holes poked before the ground freezes it's all good!
You know of all the great and informative posts I have seen on here there is one question I have not seen the answer to. How do bugs know you just freshly painted something? I am putting new tires on my 1450 so I thought I would clean, remove the rust, dirt, etc. from the rims. Primed, sprayed the first coat, cleaned off bugs. How do they know?
Don... Thanks for the info,Im wondering if I should test it on somthing out first,I've got a axle carrier that I pulled out of another rearend a while back,its got the same coating on it,I'll test it on that in a 5 gal. bucket first.I'll let it sit a day or so and see if it takes the paint off.That should give me an idea. I know carb & brake cleaner will take paint off,even old paint.Infact a week or so ago when I was strippin 1 of my rims,I had run outta stripper.I sprayed a lil carb cleaner on it and it took most of it off.Works good if you lay some rags over it and soak the rags and let it sit. And if you do get it on you it doesnt burn like paint stripper. lol thanks again
Jonathan Danial Salatino
You can test it if you want but I`am sure the red sealer inside the rear end will not be affected by diesel fuel.Dennis F. can tell you what type of sealer was used and I bet it will be some kind of two part with a hardener or epoxy sealer .
You can test it if you want but I`am sure the red sealer inside the rear end will not be affected by diesel fuel.Dennis F. can tell you what type of sealer was used and I bet it will be some kind of two part with a hardener or epoxy sealer .
Harry--
I did this when I converted my CC to snow removal from mowing last week. I've been keeping up on the leaves, since my backyard is mostly large trees, but with a pushmower. This year was def. not the year for mowing, but I'm sure I don't have to tell everyone else that. I'm hoping for some decent snow amounts so I can have some fun this winter.
I did this when I converted my CC to snow removal from mowing last week. I've been keeping up on the leaves, since my backyard is mostly large trees, but with a pushmower. This year was def. not the year for mowing, but I'm sure I don't have to tell everyone else that. I'm hoping for some decent snow amounts so I can have some fun this winter.
hydroharry
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- Jul 22, 2007
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- Harry Bursell
Dan G - you're supposed to wait for Turkey Day weekend to install your snow removal equipment. That's why Turkey Day comes on Thursday, and if you get any white stuff before that you just use a shovel and choice words.
Larry C - was your question directed to me? It's the smell. Next time get some IH Iron Guard Bugger 935 White. Makes'm stand tall so you can pick them off with tweezers.
Larry C - was your question directed to me? It's the smell. Next time get some IH Iron Guard Bugger 935 White. Makes'm stand tall so you can pick them off with tweezers.
fcurrier
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- Jul 5, 2004
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- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Thad, your question isn't being ignored, and it was touched on a few posts back. I know, I did it. FYI, you can't just pop in, ask a question, then go away for a few days. You also can't expect to have your question answered immediately. That said: You've got a problem! How much of a mechanic are you? One of the guys that's dealt with these machines for years said that's one of the worst problems he's encountered. Read back a couple days of posts, then get back to us. That's my way of saying WELCOME
Larry: They know the same way they know to bite you just where you can't reach around your shoulder blades.
Larry: They know the same way they know to bite you just where you can't reach around your shoulder blades.
Larry - I think they can smell fresh paint.... or ear wax, my least accessible body part, or something. Them buggers always seem to find me and fresh paint at the least desirable time.... arrrrghhhh!!!!!
I spray paint outside (minimize / eliminate over spray issues on with my other stuff / tools / toys), let the most volatile solvents evaporate (get to tacky) for fifteen minutes or so and move the parts to a “secure” location, as soon as the “stink” dissipates and let dry thoroughly, then I apply the second coat, and repeat as necessary . This helps keep’em at bay. I still have issues as you do…. Frustrations continue…… At least this allows them to dry, and a quick wipe a with a rag removes most of the remnants prior to the next coat. I’m not a full on restorer, so good enough to prevent further rust work for me. A few bug guts / butts pale in comparison to pitting in the metal left behind after 30+ years of rust, IMHO.
We can't all have controlled paint booths like auto body shops have… well we can want perfection, can’t we! Do what you can!
I spray paint outside (minimize / eliminate over spray issues on with my other stuff / tools / toys), let the most volatile solvents evaporate (get to tacky) for fifteen minutes or so and move the parts to a “secure” location, as soon as the “stink” dissipates and let dry thoroughly, then I apply the second coat, and repeat as necessary . This helps keep’em at bay. I still have issues as you do…. Frustrations continue…… At least this allows them to dry, and a quick wipe a with a rag removes most of the remnants prior to the next coat. I’m not a full on restorer, so good enough to prevent further rust work for me. A few bug guts / butts pale in comparison to pitting in the metal left behind after 30+ years of rust, IMHO.
We can't all have controlled paint booths like auto body shops have… well we can want perfection, can’t we! Do what you can!
I finally got the 124 to "work" electrically but now as it turns over the dipstick jumps up and down. This dipstick location is the top version and doesn't seat well in the tube. The engine doesn't burn oil and runs real well but is dirty and shows signs the seals need replacing. I guess the crankcase breather needs cleaning now.
Is there any other reason a dipstick would start doing this?????
Is there any other reason a dipstick would start doing this?????
Thad, unfortunately that is not going to be an easy fix. I had to remove one back in the early 1970's on my parents 125. It was still fairly new back then and it was still a tough job. I sprayed a penetrating spray, Liquid Wrench, in there a few times over the several days it took me to get it to loosen it up. Not sure how much that helped as it would have had to have been upside down for it to flow into the threads... But I was just a teenager and thought it might help. There was still a little bit of the narrow portion attached to the lower button that I was able to get a hold of with a needle nose pliers and eventually got it to unscrew. I also recall using screw drivers to attempt to get it loose. I used two thin flat blade screwdrivers one on each side then pushed them apart and twisted them. Not sure if that helped or not as I was trying all sorts of things to get it off. If I had to do it now after all these years of corrosion and what not I think I'd start by removing the lift handle/rockshaft so that I could turn it upside down and spray a good penetrating oil into the lift handle tube from the bottom side and let it set for a day or three. Hopefully someone else will chime in with their methods of removing one.
Wayne S.
It's a Kohlers way of telling you that it's really excited about getting back to work! Yea, that's it!
It's a Kohlers way of telling you that it's really excited about getting back to work! Yea, that's it!
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Kraig/Thad:
I know it's an extreme route, but what about pulling the top handle tube out of the Lift Handle Hub? I think there's a pin that would have to be drilled out and probably heat to the hub to get it apart.. I know it depends on the availability of tools... I'd probably cut the handle tube someplace, get the button fixed and then TIG the tube back together and grind it smooth, but that's not a route for most...
I know it's an extreme route, but what about pulling the top handle tube out of the Lift Handle Hub? I think there's a pin that would have to be drilled out and probably heat to the hub to get it apart.. I know it depends on the availability of tools... I'd probably cut the handle tube someplace, get the button fixed and then TIG the tube back together and grind it smooth, but that's not a route for most...
Gerry, Thad lists a 105 and a 125 in his profile. For those models, the tube is welded on. The rod is inserted into the tube from the bottom then the button is screwed on. If the button can not be removed, the only way I know of to repair it is to bend the "L" on the bottom of the rod straight then slide it out the top of the tube. I believe this is how Denny F. did it years ago on one of his Cubs.
DON T. - I'm not really sure what the sealer IH used on ALL castings really was. We've dicussed it here many times. The castings were all "DIPPED", never sprayed, so interior as well as exterior surfaces were coated. And it's completely impervious to any petroleum solvent that I've ever tried. So Brake-Clean, diesel fuel, kerosene, gasoline, are all good to clean up the inside of a CC rearend. I'm not sure how it responds to things like lacquer thinner, acetone, etc.
The sealing was actually handled by outside painting/dipping/sealing companies for IH's foundries. Back when I had a foundry or two to chase parts out of I actually had to call the painting co. to get the day's shipments to know if my hot parts shipped.
THAD - I've been into the lift handle once or twice on a #72 which should be the same as your 105/125, but that was a few yrs ago. About all I remember was that I didn't take the chrome part of the lever off the bottom end of the lever, It's welded solid. If you remove the entire rock shaft, and also the lift quadrant the bend on the bottom of the inner rod engages to let the rockshaft hold the mower/etc at different levels, you can push the inner rod up far enough to remove the top button with a pair of pliers, a vice grips, pipe wrench, etc. Just be careful you don't twist the end off the top threaded end of the inner rod. They were No Longer Available as separate repair parts even when the tractors were brand new. You had to buy the whole rockshaft assembly! You had to make your own inner rod from a piece of 5/16" rod, threaded on the top end and cut to the proper length, and installed down the lift lever, then heated with a torch and bent so they engaged the lift quadrant again. The top button, the float locking button, the spring, and special flat washer are still available from the sponsors above, the colorful boxes are links to their website.
The sealing was actually handled by outside painting/dipping/sealing companies for IH's foundries. Back when I had a foundry or two to chase parts out of I actually had to call the painting co. to get the day's shipments to know if my hot parts shipped.
THAD - I've been into the lift handle once or twice on a #72 which should be the same as your 105/125, but that was a few yrs ago. About all I remember was that I didn't take the chrome part of the lever off the bottom end of the lever, It's welded solid. If you remove the entire rock shaft, and also the lift quadrant the bend on the bottom of the inner rod engages to let the rockshaft hold the mower/etc at different levels, you can push the inner rod up far enough to remove the top button with a pair of pliers, a vice grips, pipe wrench, etc. Just be careful you don't twist the end off the top threaded end of the inner rod. They were No Longer Available as separate repair parts even when the tractors were brand new. You had to buy the whole rockshaft assembly! You had to make your own inner rod from a piece of 5/16" rod, threaded on the top end and cut to the proper length, and installed down the lift lever, then heated with a torch and bent so they engaged the lift quadrant again. The top button, the float locking button, the spring, and special flat washer are still available from the sponsors above, the colorful boxes are links to their website.
Denny, are you saying that you do not need to straighten the "L" on the bottom end of the rod in order to push the rod up enough to remove the button??? As in, with the notched quadrant removed does it slide up enough? I do not recall that being the case with my Original lift handle. But then I didn't have any trouble with a broken button to remove...
KRAIG - The one I repaired broke the top button in half, then I twisted the top of the inner rod off trying to remove the rest of it. It came apart easily then! I already had the whole rockshaft out of the tractor, I'd broken one lift arm that the lift links for the mule drive attach to off right at the end of the heat effected zone where it was welded to the rockshaft and was welding that back together. I moved the whole rockshaft on my welding table and the top button hit something and popped right off!
My home-made belly blade puts a bit of side-stress on the lift arms when I'm grading with the blade at an angle.
Not a hard repair, just takes a bit of creativity to rebuild something differently than IH built it originally. They assembled the lever complete with the inner rod, top button, spring, washer, & float button, then welded it together in a fixture to the rockshaft. To make a new inner rod, you need to be able to cut an inch of 5/16-18 NC male threads on the top of the inner rod, and be able to heat & bend the bottom inch or so of the 5/16" rod. A propane torch won't heat the rod enough, I tried that, but maybe a MAPP torch will, I used my acetylene torch. I found it helpful to use a piece of small pipe/tubing about 3/8" ID to slide over the bottom of the inner rod to get a nice tight radius on the bend too. I think I drilled a 3/8" hole in the end of a short piece of 3/4" dia round bar I had the correct length of the bent end I needed on the inner rod.
Hopefully THAD doesn't have to make a new inner rod!
Not a hard repair, just takes a bit of creativity to rebuild something differently than IH built it originally. They assembled the lever complete with the inner rod, top button, spring, washer, & float button, then welded it together in a fixture to the rockshaft. To make a new inner rod, you need to be able to cut an inch of 5/16-18 NC male threads on the top of the inner rod, and be able to heat & bend the bottom inch or so of the 5/16" rod. A propane torch won't heat the rod enough, I tried that, but maybe a MAPP torch will, I used my acetylene torch. I found it helpful to use a piece of small pipe/tubing about 3/8" ID to slide over the bottom of the inner rod to get a nice tight radius on the bend too. I think I drilled a 3/8" hole in the end of a short piece of 3/4" dia round bar I had the correct length of the bent end I needed on the inner rod.
Hopefully THAD doesn't have to make a new inner rod!
