Archive through October 09, 2007

[jcrews]

Hello
Well I guess if the check valve test doesn't show anything conclusive I'm going to have to give the hydro on the 1250 an overhaul. That sucker is dead as a doornail.

But it sure runs well.

 

[kharvey]

Ryan K Check for welded contacts in the voltage regulator, i know that that can make it crank with the key off. Please don,t ask me how i know this.

 

[rrschmitt]

James C,

Sounds like your charge pump isn't working even though the input shaft is turning and the roll pins are in intact. There is a key inside the charge pump that drives the rotor which sometimes shears. Perhaps that's what has happened on your 1250.

 

[gcoleman]

Got the manual, thanks Charlie. now for the decals again... For the dash, do you guys buy the NOS plates, or do you sand the dash down real well, paint it, and then put the decal flat on it, or on the old tin itself?

 

[jcrews]

Thanks Ron for the suggestion, I'll look at that

 

[mgonitzke]

Glen C.-

If it were mine, I would clean it real well and then mask of the silver colored parts and the labels, and paint it black again.

 

[rtunison]

I agree with what Matt said on the dash. Although the decals are great for flat, prepped and painted surfaces a decal on the dash tin would first of all be almost impossible to do (without bubbles) and it doesn't replicate the "textured" look of the tin work. That was the only decal that I chose not to do. I'd go with NOS or tape and paint as Matt suggested.

Well, the helicoiled head went back on after truing it up and following the manual for torqueing and re-torquing,,, and after adjusting the carb. it was work day for the rattle can refurbed 129. I'm going to install headlights as per Kendell Ide's engineering (thanks Kendell) and have ordered a new seat.

Me and the Cub next to the tomato garden (yes I sucked in my gut)

And here is the last pic. of my adventure,, gotta love Cub Cadets!

 

[jjwilliams]

I have read in the archives and FAX all that I could about Hydro speed and hydro creep. I bought a 127 for its engine but fixed a couple of little things and it runs really nice. I gather from the information that I have an hydro speed problem in that the handle moves easily and you get an interesting ride. I guess it is the easier of the 2 problems to fix and I understand with the battery out you need to wedge something between the nut and the back while you move the handle down. I have sprayed the area and have tried several things trying to wedge the nut but have so far been unsuccessful. I thought I would ask the experts if anyone has found something that works really well for them. Any tricks of the trade or is it the school of hard knocks?

Jimbo

 

[aaytay]

"yes I sucked in my gut..."

Now THAT's funny!

 

[lbuttke]

James J.

I found the easyest way to adjust the nut is to remove the entire steering shaft from the tractor.
The hardest part of this could be getting the steering wheel off, but if you look in the FAQ's there is info ther on how to remove steering wheels also.
Once the steering shaft is removed adjusting the nut will not be a problem.
Use a pull type scale and set the tension to 10 lbs pull befor the handle starts to move.

At least thats how I did it on my 127.

 

[gcoleman]

Ok, I have a very bright silver too, but most of the black areas of detail (PTO ON/OFF) etc are completely gone.

 

[digger]

Art,
SOME,of us still have to do that!

 

[aaytay]

 

[jtibbetts]

K mcconaughey.
Yes the paint is original.This was my first Cub,
the one that started it all! (as my wife would say)

 

[jtibbetts]

R. Bedell,
Thanks, I'll post more pics this winter when I tear it down and rebuild it. Yea this is another
"parts" tractor that I decided to keep. I think
you all know how that goes.

 

[rbedell]

Ryan K:

I suspect your mystery start is a result of a bad V/R.

Here is a partial schematic:

Since you had a Battery Charger on the system, you had a good 14.7VDC on the "B" terminal (B terminal has 12V on it all the time as long as there is a good battery) and if the V/R internally closed the switch for the "G" terminal, this would energized the "A" terminal on the S/G and roll over the motor. AS A TEST.... you could simply remove the "blue" wire from the V/R and see if this cures the problem. If it does, time for a new V/R. If it does not, then there is something with the Starter Solenoid or the circuit that energizes the solenoid.

 

[lhinds]

This is my next project. What is the hole under the seat for where I have the bolt.

 

[bcorn]

Glen: I do not know how bad your dash panel is but it is do-able taping the silver, and control letters. I did mine on the 1000 with great results. I did use a gloss black with 3 light coats of clear finish then new phillip head screws. Clear painted them also. Really made that area pop out.

I would be careful of sanding the rough area a cleaner then paint in my mind would work better.

Pops

 

[bmcmeen]

Luther -

Remember, those transmissions were originally used in Farmall Cubs. So not all holes translate into Cub Cadet use.

Dan Hoefler uses that hole to screw in a hook so he can hang them for painting

 

[kmcconaughey]

Bryan, you mean like this: