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Archive through November 29, 2012

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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The things you can find when doing a SEARCH:
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1450 Artillery Tractor
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Scott.....I just saw your edit to your reply. To answer your question, when I try to move the lever to forward or reverse, it does not move out of neutral.
 
Mark,has this unit spent a long time unused sitting outside??
If so, the lever is probably rusted tight in the pivot. Got a 1250 last spring like that, had to use heat to get it freed up and wrecked the paint on the tower in the process.

Daver S.
 
KRAIG - I must have used enough small words because I didn't get a "Too big a post" error message.

FRANK - I think that little canon is something all CC owners should have as "allied equipment" even though it's not in the IH "Approved Attachment" catalog. Looks like it'd be handy for combating pesky moles in the yard.
 
David.....I have no idea how long it had set prior to me getting it. I'm thinking the same thing. I did flood as much as I could with that new WD40 rust remover spray. May need more
 
Mark, WD40 is not a very good penetrating spray for loosening rusted parts... Get some PB Blaster or Kroil and spray the hydro control mechanism under the dash, behind the battery box, behind the steering column. Here's an exploded view of the various parts.

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Frank - do think one really needs a QUITE-line tractor when towing/using a CANNON? Surely you can hear the cannon fire over the engine noise on a non-QL tractor...
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Does anyone know the differences in the 61 original and others such as the slot in the tower to adjust the steering? or pinned on spindles? or any others,I read somwhere that after serial# 10221 some of these changed? Thanks, JIM
 
Jim T - yup there are alot of people that frequent here that know the differences between the 61-62-63 O's. I'm not one of them, but you may have one just down the road a piece from you. Bryan McMeen is one of the (infrequent) Moderators on here and lives in what I think is the same town as yours (he lists it as Lake Barrington). If you could possibly get ahold of Bryan I'm certain he can fill you in and possibly direct to to actually see some of the units.

Frank - that's a really nice pic, but I can't seem to make out how the cannon attaches to the tractor. Can you tell if there is some type of sleeve hitch adapter (like a Brinly) so the hydraulic lift can be used for aiming? Also, can you tell if the 1450 has dual hydraulics with the lines run to the rear instead of the front, and possibly a hydraulic cylinder mounted cannon adapter to provide for lateral aiming of the cannon? Geez, talk about fun!!! But then the BIG question becomes - Can you actually FIRED the cannon while seated on the tractor, and with the tractor in motion?????
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Is it posable that with all this talk about slow cranking cubs a while back that perhaps we neglected to check the compression release tab on the cam gear?
 
169 K341:
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These are bad scratches, almost grooves:
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They're just on one side of the wall:
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This is the scariest part, so far. There's also a 3/4" crack to the left of the broken out part that doesn't show.
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I was happy to see valve rotators on both valves:
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I'm not to happy with myself for starting to take the camshaft rod out the wrong way:
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My gut tells me that to salvage this engine it should be sleeved. I cleaned the piston enough to see it's STD. The crank is cleaned up and hasn't been turned. I don't think this engine has been opened up until now. I'm blaming carbon for the scratches on the cylinder wall and poor maintenance in the oil change area for the failure of the connecting rod.
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Mark, I had not heard of that new product. You did mention "...that new WD40 rust remover spray" which sounded more like a surface rust remover not a penetrating product. I went to www.wd40.com and took a very quick look but I didn't leave their home page. I went back just now and I see a "Specialist Line" but didn't look close enough to see what it actually was.
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I've always had success with PB Blaster. I do use WD40 for the choke and throttle cables this time of year to keep moisture out of them to prevent freeze ups but that's about all I use it for.

Jim T., the two people that come to mind that frequent this forum and would know off hand what all the differences are for the early Originals would be Paul Bell and Craig Carney. I know a few differences such as the <strike>ring</strike> collar and Spirol pin spindle caps, a thin front axle casting, no hole in the frame for the Creeper Gear and the slot for the steering adjust. I'm not sure when the various changes occurred S/N wise though. Hopefully Paul or Craig will stop by soon.
 
Frank- WOW. Glad you had better wisdom and didn't just put it back together. A chunk out of the bore, even at the bottom of the bore, is not good. Yours proves it very well.
 
Frank - scary pictures
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Some one had mentioned having it magnifluxed to see any cracks. I think you're sleeving idea is probably the only real possible solution. That's an area I never got into but only ever heard about. I assume it takes a very specialized machine shop, and I can't even venture a guess as to how much they get, but saving a 13fin K341 original to your 169 has to be worth it. And I have to say once done it should be good for another 4 decades, and I actually suspect you'll be quite impressed with the performance especially in a 169 wide frame.
 
(Jim T., the two people that come to mind that frequent this forum and would know off hand what all the differences are for the early Originals would be Paul Bell and Craig Carney. I know a few differences such as the ring and Spirol pin spindle caps, a thin front axle casting, no hole in the frame for the Creeper Gear and the slot for the steering adjust. I'm not sure when the various changes occurred S/N wise though. Hopefully Paul or Craig will stop by soon.)

My 12 month 61 Original

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My O 10 month 62

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Just for fun. I see my 62 does have a creeper hole.
 
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