Archive through November 29, 2012

[kide]

I think I've mentioned this before a out one of my Cushman engines... It wa a 2 7/8 bore, had been marked 3 00 with stamps and had a 3.050 (.050 over for an 8 horse that was 3" stock bore). I think that scooter had a hard life ...I had the wall thickness checked with a sonic bore checker ( there's tricks to that on a finned jug) and in the valve chamber area there was under .125 of material left. That one got two head gaskets!

 

[mhomrighausen]

Good morning, all!!! Happy Saturday.

To add to what Dennis F. states about te sleeved engine and "Guaranteed for for the life of the engine" applied to proof being shown by the original owner or owner's descendants. You MUST have ALL appropriate paperwork and DO NOT EVER give the company (today would be CASEIH) reprentatives the orginal paperwork no matter what. It will be gone in a heartbeat because that warranty still applies even today. Instead... present them with copies sent by an attorney. How do I know of this... I know of an actual case where the original owner needed a new crankshaft because the original one broke. In that instance though the IH dealer made sure the farmer didn't hand over the original papers and the representatives were given copies. The tractor if I recall was a 1929 FARMALL Regular.

Now to get back on topic. I inquired about the over 1/8th gouge in the sidewall of Clarence's (102) OEM engine. Original bore and it is too big to just go oversize. Believe me... Over the years I've asked way too many questions on things. My mind is one of those that as a friend once said, "Marlin. You're mind is like a computer. If it doesn't have enough data then it will keep going, "Insufficient data. Need more input."" Fred Kruse was right. Since then a lot of people throughout the years have told me that. I'll quietly study a situation or someething until I've seen all sides of it. Clarence's engine will eventually get re-sleeved back to OEM standard size. One more thing. Should a shop EVER say to someone that they will take measurements and order the piston and do the rebore BEFORE the piston/overhaul kit comes in.... RUN!!! DO NOT let them do your engine overhaul. I know of a couple of places that will do just that. Needless to say they don't see my engine work... ever.

Right now it is a very chilly 41* outside. Hopefully it warms up some. These bones don't like that kind of chill much anymore. Everyone have a wonderful weekend. Happy Cubbing!!!

 

[wshytle]

I have a situation with a 149 I can't figure out. It is really hard starting and it's not the weather/temp. It has even backfired a couple of times but I just finished checking the timing and it's right on using the static timing method. I also cleaned the points while in there. I did lap and readjust the valves recently so I wouldn't suspect that.

What else do I need to check to possibly correct this BS. I need the tractor to do some work. I have driven this tractor and it runs fine when it cranks or seems to. The throttle shaft could use a bushing also so could sucking too much air cause this? I haven't come across this situation with other tractors that need the throttle bushing as well.

I also just found a bladeless fan on the driveshaft where it apparently walked into the lift.

I guess this is just gonna be one of them days.

Any help or ideas will be appreciated.

 

[jsalatino]

PaulB....Well if the SN# is located on the trans/rearend , on the tag,, I dont know how it would be backwards,, thats what was on it.I can double check it,maybe I wrote it down wrong but I honestly dont think I did.

 

[dfrisk]

GERRY - You live on the "WILD SIDE" don't you! Less than 1/8th inch wall thickness!

I'm a little familiar with sonic tests, a whole family of open die forgings I bought years ago had an antique sonic test requirement on the prints. The former supplier of those forgings for the past 20-30 years sonic tested the forgings on the "As Forged" surface with all the scale and rough forged surfaces still on them. I was at the design source's home office out on the east coast with the one VP of our new supplier. When he found out what the spec actually was and required he turned green! He'd shipped maybe 2-3 dozen forgings tested the same way as the old supplier. He told the Eng. Mgr that the ONLY way the test could be performed was on a smooth machined forging, around 16 RMS surface finish or better which they could do in-house. My company wouldn't agree to them machining the forgings, so they went back solely to the old supplier until they went out of business a year or so later. After I was no longer involved with the project, we ended up going back to that new supplier. I used to smile & laugh at how stupid OUR engineers were when I'd see ALL those shiny machined forgings on the dock with large "Sonic Test Passed - O-K to ship" decals on them. Sonic testing the as forged surface could hide inclusions up to 1/4 to 1/2 inch across depending on forging size. That wasn't hard on an eight to ten foot long forging 10 inches by 17 inches in cross section.

They were cylinder block and head forgings for extremely high pressure piston pumps.

MARLIN - I remember you telling that story once before. The amazing thing about those old engines was they were an in-line 4 cyl with just the two HUGE ball bearing main bearings. Had to be a VERY beefy crankshaft to span the length between the bearings for all those decades. And the ball bearings had to be really strong too since I think they were included in the "Life-time" warrantee.

Of all the old FARMALL H's & M's I've been around for all these years, only ever been ONE crankshaft in an M I ever remember breaking. Guy that farmed the 160 across the creek from the 80 the Folk's lived on for 34 yrs had an M as his main tractor for a lot of years. The machine shop made a small error when they rebuilt the cylinder head. They machined 1/8" off the head, .125", instead of the typical .020"-.030". Really bumped the compression up. It was a strong running M after that. I worked for the guy's Dad several summers a few years later. The neighbor was plowing in the spring with the M down along the creek. My Boss was waiting for him to get up to the road to take him home for lunch. Just like you hit the power button on a radio to turn it off the sound of that M stopped. I saw the crankshaft a few weeks after it was replaced. The H/M's had a center main bearing and precision plain bearing inerts like today's car engines. It broke right behind the center main bearing journal. You couldn't really see where the crack, then break originated, possibly was from a stress riser like a sharp inside corner on the main bearing journal. That tractor was probably making a good 50-55 HP for hours on end. Today those old M's make 100-120 HP in pulling tractors. Not bad for a tractor & engine designed to make 36-40 HP.

Just another thing IH did REALLY well!

 

[pbell]

Jonathan S.
<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

I finally got the sn# off it,,,SN# 157490 .. I noticed on the front page the 123's started at SN# 158249 . I did a lil math and this one is #759.<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

By backwards I mean you listed the starting S/N of the 123's (157490) as the S/N of your tractor, and the S/N of your tractor (158249)as the starting S/N of the model.

 

[hydroharry]

Dennis, Marlin, Don and Gerry - thanks for all the good info on using sleeves. I feel similar to Marlin's computer theory tho - still need more data. Don mentioned some costs but I assume that is using funny green colored dollars (some with a devil face I've seen and got). It sure sounds to me like a standard boring for what I thought would be $50-75 is gonna be alot more with a sleeve. I realize this is gonna vary across the country (and be roughly C$200 north of the border), so I'm just wondering what the total price range may actually be.

Wayne - I think your starting problem "could" be do to the throttle shaft allowing to much air. You really can't maintain a good adjustment so who knows what it's really doing. BUT, just guessing I have to think, based on your description that you more likely have a problem with that ACR wire, which has been mentioned several times on here. I've never fooled around with one but if I recall correctly you can (barely?) see and access it thru the cam cover. I'm sure others will fill us in.

 

[dfrisk]

HARRY - Have you priced K341 rebuildable blocks lately? How about 13 fin K341 blocks?

There's a reason why Wyatt & I built up K321's for my worker tractor and His "Wheatland Special".

I'd guess most of these 169's & 1650's are selling for HALF of what a rebuildable K341 brings. Maybe the market has cooled off on them in the last 6-8 years but I doubt it.

If sleeving Frank's K341 lets it run a long happy life again it'll be a whole lot cheaper than finding a different K341 block.

 

[wshytle]

Thanks Harry-

I think it was the carb. I fooled with it a little more and it started cranking fine. I plan on putting a tighter carb on it tomorrow that has a fresh kit in it. I'm sure the ACR is fine because it spins like crazy. I now need a v/r for it. It will be in great shape after the carb I'm sure except it's not charging.

 

[dtanner]

Harry Bursell
I do believe someone down your way told me he could get me a sleeve for under 50$. 200$ was his price here for him to get me the sleeve and install and fit a new piston std bore supplied by me.I did get a 102 today with a creeper and another Cub that I`am not sure what it is FREE . I just have to get a Cub engine running for him .He said it did run and I will replace the points and time it. After Xmas I will drag them both home .I hope I don`t get any more because I don`t have place to store what I have now.