Hydro, for your viewing <strike>pleasure</strike>, er, horror. I give you the full resolution version:
Sorry if this makes anyone's screen go too wide.
Sorry if this makes anyone's screen go too wide.
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Archive through November 26, 2012
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
I appreciate all the tips and considerations. At this point, I don't believe that it has any coil/timing/points issues, I think it has to do with a cold drained battery that needed topping up with a charger. I'll likely look into the rear end heater. I checked the manual and it said that 10W is what is recommended for 0-32 degrees.
I'll keep an eye on it and keep everyone posted. Thanks for your help.
I'll keep an eye on it and keep everyone posted. Thanks for your help.
KRAIG - Looking at that picture, even though it IS a Quiet-line, sure makes a person appreciate the way Cub Cadets are built.
IH built a lot of good equipment, but the Cub Cadet was one of the GREAT things they built.
IH built a lot of good equipment, but the Cub Cadet was one of the GREAT things they built.
hydroharry
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Kraig - Oh Great One, Keeper of the Photos - if its not to late could you photo shop that pot and the shadows, and then rotate the pic 90 degrees so the tractor at least appears upright? Either that or everybody fill this thread quickly so I don't see the pic ever time I open the link.
(under edit) - Kraig, and while you're at it could you also fix that white paint chip in the center of the lower grill housing? The other little bit is the pipe sticking out so that's ok.
(under edit) - Kraig, and while you're at it could you also fix that white paint chip in the center of the lower grill housing? The other little bit is the pipe sticking out so that's ok.
mfrade
Well-known member
Harry, it's not a flower pot! It's a container for catching the hydraulic fluid running down the frame rail!!
They shoulda used a geardrive and got it right! ROFL!!!
They shoulda used a geardrive and got it right! ROFL!!!
hydroharry
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Mike F - don't think any hydraulic fluid (HyTran) would go that far up along the frame, but could easily be to catch some of that IH Low Ash 30W Engine Oil. Since this unit is a QL Hydro you know it has to be at least a model 1250 but could easily be a 1450 or even a 1650 (also note the dished oil pan), all of which had the dip stick located toward the right side of the engine and the oil could just run down the tube onto the floor.
Kraig - would you please rotate the pic upright before we see any spots on the floor? And speaking of the floor, what do you suppose that is? Did they lay a white tarp on the floor and stretch it up the wall or something?
Kraig - would you please rotate the pic upright before we see any spots on the floor? And speaking of the floor, what do you suppose that is? Did they lay a white tarp on the floor and stretch it up the wall or something?
mpatterson
Well-known member
Dennis,
What did you clean your starter with on your 982? I used brake cleaner on the shaft with the bendix and throw out spring, but it didn't seem to last long. My 982 rolls over VERY slow now, even with a fully charged battery. I even tried it with a boost and it rolled over slow. I am thinking the starter needs to be cleaned again. Its the original starter on it, but the brushes looked really good when I did have it appart. I didn't even use the 982 this summer, not time to fart around with it. Hopefully I get it going this winter so its ready for next year.
What did you clean your starter with on your 982? I used brake cleaner on the shaft with the bendix and throw out spring, but it didn't seem to last long. My 982 rolls over VERY slow now, even with a fully charged battery. I even tried it with a boost and it rolled over slow. I am thinking the starter needs to be cleaned again. Its the original starter on it, but the brushes looked really good when I did have it appart. I didn't even use the 982 this summer, not time to fart around with it. Hopefully I get it going this winter so its ready for next year.
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
I don't use heaters, but my snow machines are plugged into a battery maintainer (Battery Tender Jr.) 24-7 when not in use in the winter. They also run on synthetic 10W-30.
As others have mentioned, having plenty of battery is VERY important, as is the tune up, etc.
Also a good idea to run Sta-Bil in all of your winter fuel, as well as a splash of MMO, to keep the gas as fresh as possible.
One other point....make sure you clean out your throwers completely, and brush all of the loose snow off of everything before they get put in the shed. NOTHING worse than a frozen auger, chute rotator, or blade angle when you really need it.
This goes for your choke and carb cables too.....return them in "starting position" immediately after you shut it down....that way if they do stick, you'll at least get it fired.
Check your tire pressures....slow leaks LOVE hard cold rubber and rolling a tire off while moving snow isn't fun.
Let's hope we don't need to use them TOO much.....
As others have mentioned, having plenty of battery is VERY important, as is the tune up, etc.
Also a good idea to run Sta-Bil in all of your winter fuel, as well as a splash of MMO, to keep the gas as fresh as possible.
One other point....make sure you clean out your throwers completely, and brush all of the loose snow off of everything before they get put in the shed. NOTHING worse than a frozen auger, chute rotator, or blade angle when you really need it.
This goes for your choke and carb cables too.....return them in "starting position" immediately after you shut it down....that way if they do stick, you'll at least get it fired.
Check your tire pressures....slow leaks LOVE hard cold rubber and rolling a tire off while moving snow isn't fun.
Let's hope we don't need to use them TOO much.....
Thank you, Kraig, for posting this picture. I can see that I am missing a cover pan on my 1250 Nightmare. I don't have that sheet metal pan that runs from just behind the engine oil sump to the cross member where the frame begins to widen. I guess I will need to find a parts machine that will be able to supply a part.
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- Binder 1650
Hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving holiday. I passed the half century mark and my Brother gave me a can of IH anti-seize for a birthday present.
Not sure if I'm supposed to use this on bolts, fasteners, etc., or rub it on my sore elbow...
On another note, my Boys are keeping the battery charged on the 109 and the wood box full at the same time.
Not sure if I'm supposed to use this on bolts, fasteners, etc., or rub it on my sore elbow...
On another note, my Boys are keeping the battery charged on the 109 and the wood box full at the same time.
hydroharry
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Brian W - the part you're referring to is a "shield", and is missing on 9 out of 10 units. It generall cracks off in the left side area of the cut out for the steering lever. Once that happens it rattles and people remove and toss them. Or sometimes people remove to clean things and decide, what the heck, it doesn't really do anything and it never gets re-installed. In my view it is somewhat important in that it especially helps to keep grass away from the flywheel area and being sucked into the cooling fins, etc. And then the other reason to have it, is for a 100 point restoration - if IH made it you gotta have it, right down to the correct bolts holding it on. They may looks like the same bolts holding the center frame cover but they are slightly different. Ooh, and one other thing - doesn't your Nightmare deserve a new name yet? At least something gender specific. We've all had nightmares at one time or another, but we also got over them. I sure hope it's time for a new name.
MIKE P. - Yep, Brake-Clean & blue shop towels to clean the shaft & bore of the bendix. SON sprayed the shaft with a dry spray lube called Fluid Film they use at his work.
If your 982 is cranking slow, could be a dirty ground, or power connection, maybe a solenoid getting bad, maybe even a bad key switch, as well as dirty connections on the battery.
We "Bench Tested" my 982's starter before installing it and dropping the engine back in. By Bench testing I mean me holding the starter in one hand, and SON & I connecting leads to his jet ski battery which was easily available, and the torque reaction almost twisted the starter out of my hand.
Sure is a lot of work getting the engine out to R&R the starter when they bury the starter UNDER the engine!
If your 982 is cranking slow, could be a dirty ground, or power connection, maybe a solenoid getting bad, maybe even a bad key switch, as well as dirty connections on the battery.
We "Bench Tested" my 982's starter before installing it and dropping the engine back in. By Bench testing I mean me holding the starter in one hand, and SON & I connecting leads to his jet ski battery which was easily available, and the torque reaction almost twisted the starter out of my hand.
Sure is a lot of work getting the engine out to R&R the starter when they bury the starter UNDER the engine!
If you're planning a 100 point restoration don't forget the runs in the paint. Here's the factory paint runs in the skid plate from my #1 125:
Looks to me like <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> was dipping the parts in a tank filled with paint.
Looks to me like <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> was dipping the parts in a tank filled with paint.
GERRY - Yep, I wasn't very old but ran two brand new Cub Cadets when they were only weeks out of the plant @ LVL and they BOTH had paint problems, runs, sags, etc., even in very visible places. Even lots of rattle-can repaints are better than the paint they got from the factory.
And have you ever measured the decal placement on a tractor and compared placement from one side of a tractor to the other? They'll be close.... within 1/8th of an inch. Which really isn't bad when you figure they were building 150-300+ per DAY lots of years. No time for jigs or fixtures to locate the decals when you only have 1-1/2 to 3 minutes to perform your work before the next tractor comes along, so everything was "eye-balled", so considering that, they did a good job for the way most of the tractors ended up being used.
And have you ever measured the decal placement on a tractor and compared placement from one side of a tractor to the other? They'll be close.... within 1/8th of an inch. Which really isn't bad when you figure they were building 150-300+ per DAY lots of years. No time for jigs or fixtures to locate the decals when you only have 1-1/2 to 3 minutes to perform your work before the next tractor comes along, so everything was "eye-balled", so considering that, they did a good job for the way most of the tractors ended up being used.
KRAIG - Even on his best "Restorations", Dan H used to include a run or sag or two to be "Original".
Not sure if LVL had a swimming pool of 483 Federal Yellow like FARMALL had for the new red they used on the sheet metal for the 88-series, but I suspect you could imitate the correct runs & sags with a paint gun.
Not sure if LVL had a swimming pool of 483 Federal Yellow like FARMALL had for the new red they used on the sheet metal for the 88-series, but I suspect you could imitate the correct runs & sags with a paint gun.
Denny, I made sure to add a paint run/sag on the draw bar when I refurbished my Original.
Brian W,
Put a want ad in the classifieds section here on the forum for the lower shield on your 1250. I'm sure someone will have a good one off a parts unit. As Hydro Harry said, the lower deflector shield helps keep grass from getting sucked into the flywheel of your engine. The same shield was used both on the 1x8/9 series and the Quietline series so you should be able to find a good one.
Put a want ad in the classifieds section here on the forum for the lower shield on your 1250. I'm sure someone will have a good one off a parts unit. As Hydro Harry said, the lower deflector shield helps keep grass from getting sucked into the flywheel of your engine. The same shield was used both on the 1x8/9 series and the Quietline series so you should be able to find a good one.
I've had a few of the 100 point restore tractors and I didn't have ANY fun with them. If you're going to do a 100 pointer better figure on putting up on a shelf and just look at it. Gimme' a good solid worker and I'll have fun alllll day long.
hydroharry
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Kraig - Oh Great One, Keeper of the Photos - that is a nice run, but since IH did dip paint most parts, and in keeping with a 100 point restoration process, I'm sorry but you'll have to go back and do your draw bar again. The left lower bolt mounting hole is not fully painted on the inside. I know it means removing the draw bar, but if you want to get to 100 points it needs to be painted since the IH dipping process would have covered the inside of the hole.
Ron S - I don't believe that lower frame grass shield is exactly the same on the Quiet Line and 1x8/9 series. If I recall correctly, the lip edge on the front of it is taller on the 1x8/9 series. Not sure what the parts book shows. It will fit and look the same, but for 100 points it has to be the correct one.
Ron S - I don't believe that lower frame grass shield is exactly the same on the Quiet Line and 1x8/9 series. If I recall correctly, the lip edge on the front of it is taller on the 1x8/9 series. Not sure what the parts book shows. It will fit and look the same, but for 100 points it has to be the correct one.
