Archive through November 24, 2012

[fcurrier]

Don: I'll go this route:



Crankshaft Balance Plate Kit




Have you removed balance gears from your K-series engine and discovered that it now vibrates with newfound gusto? Or have you thought about buying a newer, twin-cylinder tractor just to get rid of the single-cylinder shakes? This modification will greatly reduce transmitted vibration, making your K-series engine run noticeably smoother, restoring both your faith in Kohler and the feeling in your hands and feet.

A 50% RBF (Reciprocating Balance Factor) is a good compromise in reducing transmitted vibrations from a single-cylinder engine. For reasons unknown, Kohler engineers under-balanced these engines (only 29% RBF on the K301) such that they transmit unnecessarily high unresolved reciprocating forces about the vertical axis. Installing the Crankshaft Balance Plate Kit restores a 50% RBF to the engine, making for a much reduced vibration signature. The improvement in crankshaft balance yields lower main bearing loads contributing to longer engine life, reduced transmitted vibrations, and greater operator comfort.

This inexpensive kit requires simple and straight-forward machining of your crankshaft which can be done at a local machine shop in usually less than one hour. Or, if your personal shop is equipped with a lathe and drill press, you can easily do it yourself. No further balancing of the crankshaft assembly is required if installed per the instructions. The kit consists of a precision formed, high-quality steel Balance Plate, two grade 8 mounting screws, and detailed instructions. This modification is for Kohler K301, K321, and K341 single-cylinder engines only.

Crankshaft Balance Plate Kit price each - $20.00 plus $4.00 First Class shipping

Pic didn't happen, but it can be found by checking Kirk in the pretty boxes above.

 

[dtanner]

Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)

Too later for my 125 to do that but I will keep that in mind for my next engine rebuild. Thanks for the info.

 

[tturner]

I messed around with my 100 some today... After I painted it this summer I am too afraid of scratching the thing. LOL

What a money pit.

 

[hydroharry]

Frank and Art - on the muratic acid, I never actually did it myself. Just remember Jim Chabot doing a K241 crank. If I recall right he had a small can/blow, just big enough for the crank journel. Set it out in the middle of his BIG shop floor away from everything and just let it work. I thought it was about 30 minutes but he checked on it a few times. Maybe it wasn't full strength muratic acid. I do remember the fumes tho and I think he did have his big double garage doors open. Frank, if you try this in yoru basement make sure you have access to fresh air. Or you could do it outside as well for the 3-4 minutes Art mentions. Looks to me like you don't have much aluminum on your crank anyway so it won't take long. But as Art also mentioned, clean it good with water afterwards and then oil it up. Then we need to know how the size checks out.

Tyler T - been there, done that, got the T-shirt. Everyone I ever restored and painted I could never really use except for a little testing. They are just to darn pretty to use. Had to sell each one so I could get on to doing another - and that's the rest of the story.

 

[bwittman]

Frank,

I hope those who are saying that the small chunk out of your cylinder wall is nothing serious are correct.

Were that my engine that I was overhauling, I would have that block magnafluxed to check for hairline cracks in the cylinder wall caused from that chunk coming loose. I would hate to see the engine put back together with a lot of new parts and fine machining; only to have the block fly apart due to some unidentified defects.

This is just a thought, and not meant to cause an argument. These kinds of jobs should only have to be done once. To me, having the peace of mind is worth the investment.

 

[rmccallum]

I am a new member an a new cub cadet owner. I bought a cc 122 recently an i don't think i have the right blade. it mounts under the tractor on the rear bar that holds the foot rests an on the front. i have everthing but the lift handel i had an old sears handel an made the long arm that attaches to the blade that works butttt its extremllly heavy. i use the mower lift handel to raise it but it is heavy. i think if i move the bracket that mounts the long bar away from the pivot point a little closer to the blade it might be a little easier i bought a couple of springs to help with the assist i hope this werks.Also i would like to change oil in it what is a good oil? Can i use Mobil One 5w-20 Synthetic? OR WHAT ELSE?________ I hope this is the right place to ask thease questions? thanX Richard

 

[dtanner]

Brian Wittman

The old saying an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Now would be the time to check it out. If I were Frank I would have that cylinder checked to see if it still has a straight bore. They do go egg shaped at the bottom of the bore. That is how he got caught before with the tractor I bought from him my 149 , It now has .030 bore and is a strong runner.It would have been nice to have the crank balanced in that Cub and I will have to do one just to see how much of a difference that does make. I bet kraig did have that done to Killer K he did a few years ago ??

I Think cyber Monday will be a bust for me

. My daughters Apple threw a seed and she needs a new confuser.

But I do have a creeper gear here that needs to be refurbed and I will be sending that off to Charlie to get it repaired and installed on my 100.

Off now to redo a house water system with 3/4" pex pipe and 1/2" drops to each tap along with gate valves. I did my house a few years ago and was please with the added flow of water. You all have a great day !

 

[kmcconaughey]

Richard, WELCOME!

Here's what the correct snow blade would look like:

 

[sbauer]

Does anyone know how i figure out a part number to order a rebuild kit for the starter on my 982. Cub cadet no longer sells it. Since i have the motor out i thought i would clean it and replace brushes. thanks for any help.

 

[aschumacher]

Steve, click on CC Specialties above, then on 'electrical'. They have a number of S/G rebuild kits that maybe what you need.

 

[drglinski]

As ready as I am for moving snow, I found out today that my cub is not. She was being stubborn and not wanting to start. I finally got it with a jump from the truck.

Let me describe the conditions.

-I had not started it in about 2 or 3 weeks.
-Between those two weeks, the temps. rose from 30 degrees to 60 on Thanksgiving then on Friday dropped to a high of average 35.
-I am forced to leave the cub outside.
-It's covered by a tarp, then a lean-to awning, but exposed to wind on 3 sides. (not the best, but it's what I've got.)
-I've never had trouble starting it before.
-Batt is not that old; I don't think it's bad.
-It's got 10 30 wt oil in it.
-Exterior air temp at start up was 35, no wind.
-Starting fluid was not necessary.
-This is the first year I've used it in the winter.
-This is the first year I've ever used a cub in the winter. (I have run a Farmall H before on snow removal so I'm familiar with old engines and cold starts.)
-Once it did fire, it ran great, like it had no problems. The ammeter indicated a charge was indeed present.
-I've checked the generator last month with a voltage meter, it puts out 13/14 volts at mid to high idle.

When I was cranking it over, it was cranking sluggish, but not poorly like the battery was dead. It just didn't catch until I got the truck on it and it was able to spin faster.

What should I do? I'm concerned that it's going to be troublesome all winter and when I need it to perform it won't. I would like to avoid jumping it every time I need it. Should I put the (batt) charger on it more often? It's not even that cold out yet.


Thanks
__________________

 

[dfrisk]

STEVEN B. - re Your 982's Onan starter... if the starter is spinning the engine over O-K I wouldn't mess with it. My Buddy just bought abrand new starter for his P218 engine in his off-topic tractor Saturday and installed it. Only $85 for the complete new imported starter. I might also mention it was starter number FOUR in the last two years I was told.

I'd remove the nut and pull the starter drive gear off the shaft and clean the shaft & gear up good so it spins out freely when you turn the key.

I started having problems every once in a while when starting my 982 about two yrs ago, hit the key and the starter would spin but not engage the flywheel. By the end of last summer after sitting a week or two I might have to turn the key 2-3 times to get it to start the first time, then it worked good all day. By this spring it wouldn't engage even if you turned the key 100 times After I hauled it almost 200 miles down to SON's place. We removed the engine, & starter, cleaned the shaft & gear, put some dry film lube on the shaft & gear back in May and it hasn't failed to start since.

You could maybe pull the back cover off if it's bolted on and clean the carbon dust out of the insides but unless you're having problems with it I wouldn't replace any parts. Just make sure the wire connections & grounds are all clean and you should be fine.

If you do have to replace the starter, you'll need the model & spec number of your engine to get the correct starter from your Onan dealer. Some people say their local CUMMINS dealer can get them parts but I've never tried them.

 

[bjames]

I installed one of those aftermarket electronic ignition modules on my recoil Original yesterday.
I was always having to clean or regap my points and it was hard to start in cold weather. It started right up after I installed it so I tried this morning when it was below freezing, fired on the first pull with full choke but died set it to half choke and fired and ran on next pull. It starts better and runs smoother than I've ever been able to do with points.
Only time will tell if it lasts but it will be easy to convert back to points.
I used one called the Nova II, 10.99 shipped. They are for magneto ignition only.
I installed it on the battery box and spliced into the key switch wire. Left the points in place, just cut the wire off. You would never know it was there till you opened the hood.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Daniel, the reason is the cold Hy-Tran in the rear differential. When you crank the engine over it is turning the Hydrostatic pump which is trying to pump the cold fluid. Get a magnetic heater and place it under the rear differential and let it warm up for 10 or 15 minutes before you try to start the engine.

There's a flat spot that works perfect for placing the magnetic heater. See the red X in the photo above?

 

[drglinski]

Kraig-

Thanks for that. Is there one that is somewhat inexpensive that works well? I see there are differences based on wattage, etc. Thanks

 

[kmcconaughey]

Daniel, the one in the photo is the one I use. It's a 200 watt heater and it works great. I've had it for many years, I forget what I paid for it but it wasn't very expensive.

 

[dfrisk]

DAN - Don't try to cheap out on wattage. Same thing as our battery's cold cranking amps, more is better... and WAY TOO MANY is almost enough.

If some day you need to move snow when it's zero out the small heater wouldn't be enough to get you going. And since your tractor sits outside in the wind, a little breeze can cool the hydro off quick. You probably want to get one for the engine too. Remember thse Kohlers are splash lubricated, and even 5W-20 synthetic oil doesn't "Splash" well at zero degrees.

 

[kmcconaughey]

I agree with Denny on more wattage being better, the 300 watt heater would be better than the 200 watt heater I use. Though I used it outside with no wind protection for years and it worked fine. My Cub now parks in a Tarp Shed so there is a little wind protection. If it's zero or colder out the snow can stay, that's what 4 wheel drive is for... Before you buy two heaters, as in a second one for the engine, check your oil pan to see if it's iron or aluminum. It wont stick to an aluminum pan.

 

[hydroharry]

Kraig - Oh Great One, Keeper of the Photos = there you go again. Can you tell us just how you got that photo showing the CC rearend with the red X????? I know you weren't laying on your back under the tractor cause the rear tires are not touching anything. Was the CC hanging from a chain hoist or something?????

Daniel G - Kraig is probably right on with his magnetic heater suggestion, but you'll have to learn exactly what your unit requires for cold winter starting. It's good you know about an H and cold starts but I think every unit is a little different. In my view, having enough battery power to spin the S/G at full speed is a real key to starting a Kohler K engine. As Kraig has noted, you're also spinning the hydro pump and when it's cold that hydro fluid is thick and harder to spin. Couple things I'd recommend in addition to the magnetic heater - make sure your CC is tuned up well, especially the timing (not just the point gap). Also make sure you have a good spark plug and that your choke operates well. Also, you mentioned 10W30 oil, but I believe Kohler recommends 5W20 or 5W30 for temps below 32. It appears to me you're in MI so I'd be using 5W20 myself to give myself every advantage making it easier to start. And finally, you mentioned your battery is not that old but you didn't mention the Cold Crank Amps. I believe you need a battery with at least 275 CCA and preferably 350 or more. Since you jumped from your truck and it started sounds to me like your battery was a little weak. Although the temp wasn't really that cold yet you mentioned you hadn't started it in 2-3 weeks. If you can't keep your battery indoors and somewhat warm then I recommend starting your unit at least once per week and letting run for at least 20-30 minutes. All these things should give you a better chance for your CC to start and run when you need it in the winter. Good luck with it.

 

[nbextermueller]

Daniel,

You'd be surprised how a little food weather will zap these lawn and garden batteries. Keep in mind that when your starting most of the power is going to the starter and not the plug, so the spark is very tiny.

I'd recommend a battery maintainer like those found at harbor freight or similar. Also starting it up once a week and letting it run at half throttle for 5-10 mins after it warms up will do it good too. That will also keep things in the carbs fresh.

The worst part about keeping them outside right now is condensation that can form in the gas tank and carb bowl. I had to clean mine 3 times after the temps changed liked that. All for 3 drops of water stuck on the needle and seat.