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Archive through November 22, 2007

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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ok here goes ,did you guys know that beadliner materal was tested for cement bridges in the nothern US to protect them from salt damage and my company sprays it on pipeing to protect it in spray headers in stacks at manfacturing plants all over the world lol. Not stupid just cant spell lol
 
Don - I think the resin would be short lived under the conditions the mower deck goes through. To much vibration and tempature changes would cause cracking without the intended glas to hold it together. Not to mention the occasional gravel chunking out a spot.

I use to build boat molds from the ground up. Flipping over a 26 footer is what tore up my back.

Bed liner would be good but only if the metal is prepped right at the begining. I did read on one off road forum about a brand that scratched off to easy but I can't remember now which it was.

A guy that had me do some welding for him sprays on liner and it's so slick it's like Slip Plate. That stuff would be good but I don't know which one he uses. It's way to slick for a bed liner, I'd rather have a rubber base to prevent sliding.

Charlie - You want your cold weather back ?? 63 @ midnight , 41 this afternoon .... brrrrrrrr !!
 
When I had my 42" 100 deck all cleaned up. I asked the local Line-ex guy how much he would charge to spray it? He said 70.00 I decided against it. I would have done it for 50.00 though.
 
I just got a call from the guy that bought this and he says it has an IH decal on it, which you can see in the pic.Hmmmmmm
Anyone ever seen one of these made by IH?
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Charlie,
Yup, seen them before, usually red or just plane ol' rusted out. Don't seem them as "new" as that though. It's a peg tooth harrow.
 
Ken. I am with you someone needs their cold air back!
Nice compressor Charlie, Are there any of those left?
 
Charlie
I don't know if IH made them or not, but the peg tooth harrows are in the early TC-82 and TC-103 parts manuals for the Original and 70/100. The Farm Equipment Division Industrial Development Committee Planning Report NO. 35 states in part that IH design and build tools/item of potentially high volume for the tractor, and the balance of the equipment be purchased from existing sources until such time as demand may warrent producing thier own. So I would say IH probably didn't build it, but it was in the parts catalog from the beginning.
 
Well,
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I searched the archives and mainly found posts refering to 'home treatment' bed liners and very little conclusive evidence of professional liners either being of help or hinder. At $70 this is far less investment than a $400 deck replacement. Most bed liners are exposed to quite a varity of abuse, most of which extreme. Might just have to run an experiment to see what happens.
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I should add that the Subject of that IH Committee Report (#35) I referenced below is, quote "Program for the development of a line of tools for the CUB-ETTE tractor" end quote, and is dated May 5, 1960. CUB-ETTE, as most know, is the name used during the development stages of what we now know as the Cub Cadet.
 
Thanks Tom & Paul.
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I just had a guy stop by and he didn't understand why his thrower kept eating bearings!
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And just in case you don't know what one is supposed to look like.
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Brian I live in Arizona and qualify as a sandy dry environment, although I irrigate in the summer and have a lot of grass to mow. I have found the Gattor blades will pick up more sand and blast the mower deck worse than standard blades.

I clean up my decks and paint them with a truck bed liner that I get at Wally world. It is reasonable and does a good job. I put it directly on the bare metal. I don't know if a good primer would help or hinder the sticking of the bed liner.

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I use the spray on liner but they also have it in a can so you could apply with a brush and make it thicker.

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At the end of the year I clean the deck up real good and they usually look like this.

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Then I just re-apply another coat and good to go for the next year.
 
Charlie - The shaft that BFH sent here to get re-made looked worse than that !
What was his name ...
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... oh well, to long ago.
 
Charlie, look what i found today for $40.00. weights for my 129 cub loader.
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Am I the only one sitting here thinking that Richard C's decks probably look about like that after he finishes cleaning up after every mowing.
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The guys that sprayed the bottom for my truck cab "washed" the underside of the floor with muratic acid. The surface was clean and lightly etched so the coating would stick. I have never had any part of it lift. I have been very impressed when I have the inner fenders replaced the inner part of the wheel well will be Line-x ed as well. The only regret is I didn't have the inside floor done at the same time as the outer floor.
 
Hi, all

I need some help from the paint purists. Despite all the great information in the FAQ about various shades of white and stock numbers vs. manufacturer, my local CaseIH dealer has managed to stray into new territory.

What I find on his shelf is "Cub Cadet White", stock number B505051. This doesn't match any of the stock numbers in the FAQ, and the plastic lid isn't a clear match with any of the paint chips shown in the FAQ. Does anyone know whether this paint matches IH935, IH901, IH902 or some other shade altogether?
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(By the way, although it says "By CASE" on the label, it also says on the back that Valspar actually produces the paint.)

I sure envy you guys with heated shops around this time of year. It's a real pain spraying in the cold weather. I sneak parts into the house in the evening to heat them up, then sneak 'em back out the next day before the wife blows a gasket.
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What we do for our hobbies...
 
IIRC, one of the major concerns about the bed liner material was that if the bond to metal wasn't really good, the issue of moisture being trapped and causing more rust problems could be pretty big. Like KentucK said, preparation of the deck first would be important.
 
I just got my newly acquired 169 running. This is after about 200.00 to our sponsors and many hours of work. What a beast! One question for you experts; the amp gauge is an SW that has a range of 30. It barely moves, but the battery stays up. Would an IH gauge work better and show a charge more realistically? Thanks
 

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