Roland,
You pretty much called it like it is.
You pretty much called it like it is.
-
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Archive through November 21, 2005
- Thread starter tbordeleau
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Eric,
My thought would be to get some washers at least as thick as the chain housing. Hog out the hole in the washer with a file or Dremel-type tool to make the square opening for the bolt. Flatten the area on the housing where the damage is. Drill a hole in the housing to match the OD of the washer. Weld in the washer on both sides, with the back side flush. Grind the outside flush, as well as any part of the washer sticking into the area of the large hole in the center of the housing.
There would be a concern of the weld area being too brittle if it was cooled too quickly. There would also be a concern if the washer material was too soft, allowing the holes to be boogered up again. As soon as there is enough heat applied, the characteristics of the steel will be changed. In general, if it's cooled quickly, it will be more brittle; if cooled slowly (like immersed in sand or something similar and left to sit until cool), it will be softer. Depends on how much carbon and other additives are in the steel. I would assume that there isn't too much hardness there to begin with.
I'm sure somebody will offer ways to improve on this idea, but at least this is a start.
My thought would be to get some washers at least as thick as the chain housing. Hog out the hole in the washer with a file or Dremel-type tool to make the square opening for the bolt. Flatten the area on the housing where the damage is. Drill a hole in the housing to match the OD of the washer. Weld in the washer on both sides, with the back side flush. Grind the outside flush, as well as any part of the washer sticking into the area of the large hole in the center of the housing.
There would be a concern of the weld area being too brittle if it was cooled too quickly. There would also be a concern if the washer material was too soft, allowing the holes to be boogered up again. As soon as there is enough heat applied, the characteristics of the steel will be changed. In general, if it's cooled quickly, it will be more brittle; if cooled slowly (like immersed in sand or something similar and left to sit until cool), it will be softer. Depends on how much carbon and other additives are in the steel. I would assume that there isn't too much hardness there to begin with.
I'm sure somebody will offer ways to improve on this idea, but at least this is a start.
tbordeleau
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- ted Bordeleau
Picking everyone's brain again:
1. Why is the camber on the front wheels of my 1450, and I suppose most Cubs in general, so severe? Looking at those front tires, most contact is on the outer edges, regardless of which way they're turned. Just trying to understand the engineering behind it.
2. If my tractor rolls backward (haven't noticed it forwards) when shut off (on an incline), is it an un-correctable problem with the release valve(s)? When I got the thing, it had obviously been put away wet and sat for a long time, and we had to tap the release valves DOWN in order to push it into my truck. They stuck SEVERELY in the down position, and it took many days of soaking in the parts washer, then pounding with a drill shank thru the holes in the bottom to push the mechanism back out. After that I sprayed and lubed and cycled the plungers in and out to free them up. I will rely on the parking brake, but again, just wondering about the design, and if it's something I need to correct.
1. Why is the camber on the front wheels of my 1450, and I suppose most Cubs in general, so severe? Looking at those front tires, most contact is on the outer edges, regardless of which way they're turned. Just trying to understand the engineering behind it.
2. If my tractor rolls backward (haven't noticed it forwards) when shut off (on an incline), is it an un-correctable problem with the release valve(s)? When I got the thing, it had obviously been put away wet and sat for a long time, and we had to tap the release valves DOWN in order to push it into my truck. They stuck SEVERELY in the down position, and it took many days of soaking in the parts washer, then pounding with a drill shank thru the holes in the bottom to push the mechanism back out. After that I sprayed and lubed and cycled the plungers in and out to free them up. I will rely on the parking brake, but again, just wondering about the design, and if it's something I need to correct.
bmcmeen
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Eric -
Not exactly sure what tack Dan H. would take with this repair, but I can imagine a quickie would involve clamping a non-steel block under the hole area then filling in the void with weld, removing the block then grinding it smooth and squaring up the hole.
Not exactly sure what tack Dan H. would take with this repair, but I can imagine a quickie would involve clamping a non-steel block under the hole area then filling in the void with weld, removing the block then grinding it smooth and squaring up the hole.
E
egreen
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I just bought a model 125 Cub. It came with a tiller but I need the belt for it. Can anyone tell me what size belt I need? Thanks for your help.
mgallinaro
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TED B,
I asked the same question to the Cub Dealer that sold me my 1200 when it was new. He told me that that the extreme camber made the steering easier and reduced the forces and future wear on the steering components especially the models with the flotation front tires. To quote his final remarks during that conversation, "Tires are cheaper steel!" To which I replied, "Take off the flotation front tires and put the 4.80x8 tires on the front." I got the best of both, easy steering and good tire wear. That tractor still has those same tires on they are still in great condition for the age of that tractor.
I asked the same question to the Cub Dealer that sold me my 1200 when it was new. He told me that that the extreme camber made the steering easier and reduced the forces and future wear on the steering components especially the models with the flotation front tires. To quote his final remarks during that conversation, "Tires are cheaper steel!" To which I replied, "Take off the flotation front tires and put the 4.80x8 tires on the front." I got the best of both, easy steering and good tire wear. That tractor still has those same tires on they are still in great condition for the age of that tractor.
Ted, my 782 has the exact same problem with Camber. I have actually rotated my tires on the rim to wear out the other side. I don't see the point in having a large front tire if only 1/3 of it touches the ground.
Maybe I'll try the skinnier tires.
Maybe I'll try the skinnier tires.
mhomrighausen
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Bryan M. I agree with you with what you said Dan H. would do for the repair. It seems to be the quickest and most effective method.
Ted and Mike. On the front tire concern. The first tractors to come out were straight up and down on the front tires. When any front mount implements such as a loader, cultivator, etc. were put on the steering became harder. If those tractors had the helper one hand steering knob then lookout when the front dropped in a hole. Ask any old timer that had that happen to them. If you look at the tractors (such as my 1936 F20) up to the late 1930s you will see the straight wheels. Yes, the tires wore more evenly. Then compare with tractors built after that and you will see the difference. Try handling one of the pre-1940s + tractors with a loader or cultivator and then a newer tractor with the change and you will quickly see the difference in handling. Also, vehicles began to travel faster. Sure you won't be going 20 mph with your Cubs only for now enjoy the convenience. Put a loader on both of your Cubs and you will actually notice the difference.
Ted and Mike. On the front tire concern. The first tractors to come out were straight up and down on the front tires. When any front mount implements such as a loader, cultivator, etc. were put on the steering became harder. If those tractors had the helper one hand steering knob then lookout when the front dropped in a hole. Ask any old timer that had that happen to them. If you look at the tractors (such as my 1936 F20) up to the late 1930s you will see the straight wheels. Yes, the tires wore more evenly. Then compare with tractors built after that and you will see the difference. Try handling one of the pre-1940s + tractors with a loader or cultivator and then a newer tractor with the change and you will quickly see the difference in handling. Also, vehicles began to travel faster. Sure you won't be going 20 mph with your Cubs only for now enjoy the convenience. Put a loader on both of your Cubs and you will actually notice the difference.
tbordeleau
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Steve:
That's what I'm talkin' about! I could understand it if at some point in the steering arc the geometry put the tire in full contact, but if the whole tire is NEVER in contact, what's the point? Makes me wonder how much traction the fronts can get when pushing a plow/snow blade.
I won't worry about it now though, the PO put new tires on mine.
That's what I'm talkin' about! I could understand it if at some point in the steering arc the geometry put the tire in full contact, but if the whole tire is NEVER in contact, what's the point? Makes me wonder how much traction the fronts can get when pushing a plow/snow blade.
I won't worry about it now though, the PO put new tires on mine.
tbordeleau
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I figured there must be a good reason (the camber thing), and that sounds like it!
Any idea what year/model the cubs began the exaggerated camber? I wonder how hard it is to steer an older one with a blower on the front...
Any idea what year/model the cubs began the exaggerated camber? I wonder how hard it is to steer an older one with a blower on the front...
To answer the plow question, not much. I steer lock to lock just to make small turns.
Someday I'll find skinny tires.
My dad has a 1750? (I think) that is yellow and later model. It does not have the camber problem.
Someday I'll find skinny tires.
My dad has a 1750? (I think) that is yellow and later model. It does not have the camber problem.
Actually, If We call upon the assistance of Kraig, Keeper of the Photo's We can show a properly cambered & castered front axle on Wyatt's 169 referred to as the "SuperSteer Modification". Something Ken Updike dreamed-up to use a newer heavier better designed axle from an MTD CC on the older tractors. Turns shorter, cambers the tires for less slippage and eliminated the slop in the steering by using steering arms that are splined on to the spindles. Plus the frt axle casting is about 50% stronger than the older tractor's axles. My 70 & 72 have the 4.00/4.80 X 8" frt tires, 129 has 16-6.50 X 8's, 982 has the 18-8.50 X 8's. Unless Your moving they all steer hard on dry concrete.
mgonitzke
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Shouldn't this hydraulic lift lever be vertical in the neutral position?
If so, would this be caused by the valve assembly mounted either too high or too low on the steering column?
If so, would this be caused by the valve assembly mounted either too high or too low on the steering column?
Matt G.
I think you will find one of two things that cause that.
Someone has pulled on that puppy and bent it, which is very easy to do.
Or, the roll pin is loose that goes through it under the dash to the valve body.
If your roll pin is nice and tight, take a slowly push it forward to the upright position and you should be in the middle with the tractor running.
Those handles are made of soft stuff and twist/bend very easily.
Yes if someone didn't put the valve body back in the right spot, that would do it too.
(Message edited by cproctor on November 22, 2005)
I think you will find one of two things that cause that.
Someone has pulled on that puppy and bent it, which is very easy to do.
Or, the roll pin is loose that goes through it under the dash to the valve body.
If your roll pin is nice and tight, take a slowly push it forward to the upright position and you should be in the middle with the tractor running.
Those handles are made of soft stuff and twist/bend very easily.
Yes if someone didn't put the valve body back in the right spot, that would do it too.
(Message edited by cproctor on November 22, 2005)
Matt & Digger,
You could have the new style clamp arm that has let the lever slip in it. I would look under the dash first to see what style arm you have. You might just have to loosen the bolt up, set the lever in the right position, and tighten the bolt back up.
You could have the new style clamp arm that has let the lever slip in it. I would look under the dash first to see what style arm you have. You might just have to loosen the bolt up, set the lever in the right position, and tighten the bolt back up.
mgonitzke
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When was this new style lever introduced? My 1450 is a late one, built at the end of April 1979.
bmcmeen
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Matt G. -
The replacement is the clamp style, so it could appear on ANY year if the PO changed it.
...upon review of the TC-157, there are no serial number breaks shown, so I would assume that it was a post-production fix...
The replacement is the clamp style, so it could appear on ANY year if the PO changed it.
...upon review of the TC-157, there are no serial number breaks shown, so I would assume that it was a post-production fix...
Here's what they say in service bulletin No. 3745 dated Sept.6 1978.
