Archive through November 21, 2005

[tbordeleau]

I just checked the FAQ for the "hydro creep" problem I'm experiencing on my 1450.

Is it possible to run the tractor in this condition with no real detriment? I mean, if I keep a vigilant hand on the speed control while going up and down the hills in my yard, can I get away with it until some downtime in the spring?

I noticed that I really had to move the speed control lever almost to FULL FWD to get up some sections in my back property with the mower on. In this un-repaired condition, can I get the same power (at any given throttle setting) by moving the lever, as compared to the power I'd get with fixed lever position in a repaired condition?

Just trying to get a handle on whether to fix now (no time) vs how much power I'm losing.

 

[stanner]

Ted,

I've been dealing with my hydro creep for 14 years... still runs and goes good.. it's really just an annoyance and perhaps a safety issue, tho.... JMO


But, I cobbed mine together at the trunion by inserting a couple of washers on each side of the spring to shore it up. this made it a lot better, but not 100%.. I also bushed out the end of the speed control lever with a bronze bushing. no the handle won't jerk outta my hands

(Message edited by stanner on November 21, 2005)

(Message edited by stanner on November 21, 2005)

 

[digger]

Ted & Scott,
If you guys don't want to do the trunion repair thing, the operation neutral adjust sometimes helps loads. And it's fast and easy to do.
http://cubfaq.com/neutraladjust.html

 

[stanner]

Charlie,

BTDT x 10E3

mine is so worn at the trunion and at the cam plate, that it will not adjust with the factory adjustment mechanism. My 149 is all apart anyhoo, so it will get new or repaired parts...

BTW, does anyone know if the cam plate mechanism parts are still available?

 

[tbordeleau]

Scott:

I was wondering if there was a "washer fix" that might work, I'll look really hard at mine and see if I can get away with something. And GOOD QUESTION about replacement parts, I was going to ask that myself.

 

[tbordeleau]

Here's something else: My deck goes UP when you PUSH the lever, and DOWN when you PULL it, opposite of what it should.

Did somebody swap hyd lines? Is this possible or common, and can I just break the lines and re-attach at a/the valve body?

 

[stanner]

Ted

Roland answered your Q before the archive hit...

 

[jharvey]

Charlie
I've tried the trunion thingy per your instructions in the FAQ but I'm stuck on "Loosely Tighten". Does that require a special wrench?

 

[digger]

Jerry H,
Loosely tighten is the same as snug up. and no special wrench is need, just a 9/16's.
I have better luck with the bottom bolt to use a socket with a 8" extension.

 

[belliott]

I have some electrical questions for you:

I was working on some Cubs for my dad and experienced the following problems. Electrical is my weak area so I figured I would come here with the questions.

CC 108 and 100:

Both of these tractors are experiencing charging problems. When running the needle on the charge indicator is just to the left of 0 or in the discharge area. The 108 has a rebuilt starter/generator and a fairly new voltage regulator. The 100 has old parts.

I messed with the 100 more than the 108. I swapped out a spare S/G, regulator and gauge. Still not charging. Can this be due to bad starter/generators? How do I tell? I filed down the points in both regulators first in case that was the problem. No dice. How do I test voltage regulators?

The second problem is a CC 1000. This beast won't start. There is something funky going on with the ignition system. I can get it to fire but not run. Dad had a friend come over that replaced all components including the points, condenser and coil. Won't run. The guy that helped him said there is some expensive electrical component that needs to be replaced. Any ideas?

Any help you can give me is appreciated. You can e-mail me offline if you wish at [email protected]

 

[digger]

Bob E,
Not to sound smart or anything, but did ya check out the FAQ section on just that very subject?

 

[mgonitzke]

If the ammeter is connected backwards, It'll look like its not charging..... Are you making the assumption based on the gauge, or does the tractor drain the battery down or show other signs that something is wrong?

 

[rbedell]

Bob E:

You could have good components BUT have a bad or poor wiring connection(s).

A wiring diagram and a VOM meter, in conjunction with the FAQ section, should bear some results.

 

[rbedell]

Bob E:

Here is a Wiring Schematic for the 100:

 

[rbedell]

Bob E:

Here is a Schematic Diagram for the 1x8/9:

 

[prightmyer]

Rebuilding the QAxxB that my dad gave me and I have a question: are sprockets supposed to have teeth on them? Sounds like we are getting snow for Thanksgiving here in Rochester (NY), should have the snowthrower done by April!

 

[mbounds]

Bob E: The 1000 fires but won't run...Has it been setting for a while??? BTDT!! Remove the Main Needle from the Carb. Its the one on top with the spring on it. Its loooong and hollow. Careful..dont' bend it or damage the tapered point. I use Wal-Mart Carb cleaner in the pressurized cans. Put that little red tube to the bottom (near the point) holes and blow out that tube. It may take some time to get it clean. When you can blow the carb cleaner in the bottom holes and it sprays out the ones in the middle and the ones at the top, then you will find out that your Kohler will likely fire right up (I'm assuming that you have spark to the plug as you said). If you think its an electrical problem, check and recheck the grounds!!
Myron B

 

[hlinden]

Bob E.
Roland B.

The wiring diagram for the 70/100 you posted is the same as an original, which I have. I had some ignition problems and narrowed it down to the resistor on the back of the voltage regulator. This is an often missed problem. I was unable to find a replacement so used a 10 watt, 75 ohm ceramic resistor from the local U-do-it yourself electronics store. Now all is working well. It might be of interest (I did not do this) to check the continuity between "B" and "L" to see if there is any resistance or full voltage. Most points ignition systems have a ballast resistor to help conserve the points. All the old cars had these resistors. However, I must admit without a schematic of the voltage regulator the exact use of this resistor is not clear but I am sure it is used to make points, either ignition or in the regulator live longer.

If you have any corrosion on the back of your voltage regulator try cleaning up the contacts for the resistor. The hold down tabs are easily lifted with a screw driver.

I hope this is the problem and would like to know what you get for measurements.

(Message edited by hlinden on November 21, 2005)

 

[tbordeleau]

Scott: Come again? Roland? What archive hit?

I love this forum, I wish I had a PC in my garage, and I was working there right now...

 

[rbedell]

Ted B:

If you may, there are just so many posts to a page (or screen). Once you reach that limit, that page goes to the archives. Maybe Charlie or Bryan can explain it better.