Archive through November 09, 2007

[kmcconaughey]

Rob, when I bought my #2 125 the battery and weights had been added to the rear by the previous owner who had bolted the angle iron brackets to the fenders with no other support. The fenders bent and the weights were sagging. I removed it and added the lower support brackets. I used U-bolts around the axles to secure a length of angle iron to the axles that runs out to the bottom of the weight bracket. I then used another length of angle iron across the top of the drawbar to support the new lower brackets. I hope this made sense. I can take some better photos this weekend to illustrate how I did this.

 

[digger]

Kraig,
Ya know, looking at that tire. I don't think I've ever seen a Cub with studs in the tires.
Seems to me like they work work great too.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here's a quick drawing that might help explain it.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Charlie, those tires are not on the 125 anymore, they cracked down in between the tread. It's wearing tires that I bought from Jim Diederichs back in 2000. I suppose I could put tubes in them, have them studded and put them back on.

Recent photo:

Hmmm, looks like these tires might be set up for studs too!

 

[ljerickson]

It's amazing that people think that the fenders make good structural members. The weight box on my 122 was mounted on the fenders and the hitch plate. There was a pin welded to the weight box that mounted in the hitch hole. The bottom of the box had rusted through and the pin was no longer attached.

Here's a link to some pictures:

Weight Box and New Frame

Rob's weight frame looks pretty robust. However, threaded rod is usually pretty soft. Better would be socket head capscrews. Usually better than Grade 8, you should be able to torque these to 44 Ft-Lbf if clean and dry or 34 Ft-Lbf if lubricated. (I'm thinking these are 3/8 - 16 UNC, forget it if I'm wrong).

Lee

 

[rneubauer]

Kraig,

Since you were there helping me (at least accoring to Art's graphics) why didn't you point out these issues earlier in the design phase? Seriously, everyone brings up some good points, however I want the rear weight bracket to be easily removed, hence the use of rearend studs. If I keep the loading at about 150lbs I'd be surprised if anything breaks. 3 bolts hold the factory drawbar hitch on these tractors, and just how much weight have we all put on those 3 bolts????

Looks like your tractor had alot of weight on it, that was cantilevered off of the lighter weight fender material.

 

[pdorow]

weight buckets?

 

[digger]

Paul D.
I want to HTH you keep a shop lookin like that??????

 

[kmcconaughey]

Rob, after thinking about it for a few minutes, a quick attach weight bracket could be built based on the setup on my 125. Change the U-bolt to two separate bolts per side, one forward of the axle and one rearward of the axle. You could also weld some rod or a short piece of angle iron. This would form a cradle that would rest on the bottom side of the axle. On the cross brace piece of angle iron that I have on my setup, weld on a tab that has a downward facing stud that lines up with the drawbar hole. You would then have to fab up whatever mounting mechanism would be required to accommodate the weights that you have. This would be built at the rear of the two angle iron brackets that rest under the axle. To install simply slide the bracket under the axles with the drawbar retainer pin above the drawbar when the axle cradles are lined up under the axles pivot the pin down into the drawbar hole and mount up your weights. Do you need a drawing???

 

[pdorow]

Charlie

Sweeping compound---

Sorry I'm a neat freak, but trust me me it's not quite that clean anymore. My six year old grandson has taken it over.

 

[stritle]

My poor tractor is dead. I have had the typical 782 starter problems, but needed to finish yard work before ripping into it. Well, it got worse and worse until I had to jump the solonoid to start it. Now, I have nothing at the key and only 1/2 the battery volts at the post on the solonoid.

I plan on changing the battery cables to see if that helps. They are a bit worn, but I have seen worse. There is no power to the key and the lights won't turn on.

Any other ideas?

 

[digger]

Sometimes you just gotta set back and say,Hmmmmmm

 

[digger]

Oh yea, the other end!

 

[kweaver]

Neat lookin BUT you'd better run a 100 amp alt. and those motors are gonna get HHOOTT using it !!

 

[lbuttke]

KenTucky

I would thing those motors should run cooler if the loader is only used in the winter for snow removal.

 

[jcrews]

Steve Tritle
Check your ammeter,it could have a broken circut inside .Take a wire and connect the terminals on the back and see if it turns over.I had a situation just like yours on my 1250 and that solved the problem.

 

[dylschmidt]

RE:122/loader..... just goes to show.. there is more than one way to get-er-done...with or with/out hydra ..gotta hand it to the guy for thinking outside the box..Nice work!

 

[aschumacher]

Wasn't some one looking for a long throw actuator recently to lift a small trailer? The thing probabily costs more than the whole trailer!

 

[tdoyle]

Rather ingenuous setup on the tractor, Charlie that makes good use of some obsolete satelite dish arms for sure. How much weight will it lift?

 

[dsauve]

Allen that was me I was thinking my stuborn father who doesn't uinder stand the concept of only one scoop in the trailer instead of two. He has to unload by hand and has a bad back. I have 2 linear actuators already and was thinking about using them. He already has the trailer so the cost this time is minimal. Northern tool has linears on sale now for under 150 buck and lift over 1000 pounds. even at that price it is still cheaper than a thrown out back.