I finally got fresh front tires on the 129+ last night. And I put the little shorty valve stems on in lieu of the longer ones. I think they may have contributed to my tire woes. I really like the look of the Titan Multi-Trac C/S tires.
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Archive through November 08, 2003
- Thread starter kehrecke
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Steve,
It's great to have someone doing serious raster research on small plow design. You are correct, one of the real problems with gt plows is that we are trying to do full size work with 1/4 scale clearance. Everything is too close to the ground / trash / the next part in line on the plow. At the 50 years of Progress / Farm Progress Historic Pre-Show there was a guy pulling a one bottom "pull type" plow. It may have been a 14" bottom (only 2" wider than my 12" brinley) but it had 3-4 times the clearance of the Brinley.
Please keep us up to date on your plow modifications / experiments. I believe and hope you are on to something workable. My problem will be the limitations of my armstrong lift after I add weight and move it back 4-6 inches!
Thanks for the drawings - keep 'em coming.
CJM
(Message edited by cmccarty on November 08, 2003)
It's great to have someone doing serious raster research on small plow design. You are correct, one of the real problems with gt plows is that we are trying to do full size work with 1/4 scale clearance. Everything is too close to the ground / trash / the next part in line on the plow. At the 50 years of Progress / Farm Progress Historic Pre-Show there was a guy pulling a one bottom "pull type" plow. It may have been a 14" bottom (only 2" wider than my 12" brinley) but it had 3-4 times the clearance of the Brinley.
Please keep us up to date on your plow modifications / experiments. I believe and hope you are on to something workable. My problem will be the limitations of my armstrong lift after I add weight and move it back 4-6 inches!
Thanks for the drawings - keep 'em coming.
CJM
(Message edited by cmccarty on November 08, 2003)
Charlie M.
I will have do a little checking. I seem to remember one but that was some time ago. Will check monday at my friendly AGCO dealer. He has been business so long, there is nothing he can't find it seems.
I would today but he is a mile from the farm and that is 50 miles away. I will be on the farm monday so I will check then.
I will have do a little checking. I seem to remember one but that was some time ago. Will check monday at my friendly AGCO dealer. He has been business so long, there is nothing he can't find it seems.
I would today but he is a mile from the farm and that is 50 miles away. I will be on the farm monday so I will check then.
CHARLES - If Steve needs some help with "prototype" notched coulters I can help Him. He can e-mail Me a template and I'd blast it out with the Plasma cutter ;-) Several ideas have been used on full size plows to improve trash cutting ability, ripple coulters, concave coulters, notched, Dad even welded 1/2" dia. rod 6" long on the sides of a smooth coulter, staggered about 6 pcs on each side to keep them turning & cutting one spring. Problem is there just isn't enough room under the Brinley plow frame and between the bottoms & the hitch & coulter. An IH 720 or 735 plow has enough trash clearance to almost drive a Cub Cadet thru between the bottoms with the moldboards sitting on top of the ground! I think Steve is on the right track though. We don't call Him Mr. PLOW for nothing. WYATT - You make it sound like all We did was sit around & drink beer in the shop.....We drank a soda every now & then!
kkappelmann
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- Dec 4, 2011
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- displayname
- kervin kappelmann
I have a 123 CADET hydro, goes forward but not backwards. Anybody have any ideas as to what the problem might be? Just got this machine and am in the process of restoring it. Don't have any manuals for it yet either.
John, not really. Look at your drive shaft it should have a score line on it for where to cut it for length and a hole at the new pin location. Mine did.
Kervin, you probably have a stuck control valve. On a 123 I don't think theres any way to get into it except take the rear end out. You have to love the narrow frame hydro owners, they are a persistant bunch.
Kervin, you probably have a stuck control valve. On a 123 I don't think theres any way to get into it except take the rear end out. You have to love the narrow frame hydro owners, they are a persistant bunch.
kkappelmann
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- displayname
- kervin kappelmann
Dave: thanks for the info on the 123 hydro. Guess I'll pull it and scatter it. It will make a nice winter project.
tschweizer
Well-known member
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- Feb 16, 2000
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- 862
- displayname
- Travis Schweizer
Kevin, run the engine wide open and go fwd to rev first. Make sure you use your head and don't hit anything though. A lot of times that will jar them loose.
Greg, those clutch parts are different.
Greg, those clutch parts are different.
tschweizer
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- Travis Schweizer
Hehe, guess I'm building a new plow tractor!!! Oh Don?????
sblunier
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Thanks for the plow comments guys.
I am planning to raise the main frame/sleeve hitch connection up off of the ground some more, and stretch the frame some.
From my observations 90% of plow plugging problems occur for one of 4 reasons.....
1) Uncut trash sticking between the coulter and shin.........coulter not cutting and set too shallow due to the fact that it acts as a gauge wheel and carries the plow.
2) Trash dragging on the sleeve hitch, especially on the right side and under the attaching pin (where the hair pin sticks down). Caused by no ground clearance on our 1/4 scale machines and by #3.
3) Ridge of trash left by previous plow not running coulter. The tearing action of the board/shin leaves a pronounced ridge of "fluffy" trash......hard to cut with a coulter and easy to hang up on the sleeve hitch, coulter yoke, shin, etc.
4) Coulter swings into the shin / plow over cuts, pinches dirt/trash between shin and coulter.
IMHO, the solution is more trash clearance under the frame, a bit more clearance between the shin and coulter, a bad-a$$ed trash CUTTING coulter, and a plow bottom weighted/adjusted to hold said coulter in the ground.
Notched coulter will be created with a plasma cutter (after-hours in the weld shop at work) and sharpened to razor's edge on the belt sander. Trick will be to get the notch depth/radius correct to penetrate, hold trash, and cut (even in the depressions).
Now....<font size="+2">Who is hosting spring plow day?????</font> Come one folks, stand up and be counted!!!!
I am planning to raise the main frame/sleeve hitch connection up off of the ground some more, and stretch the frame some.
From my observations 90% of plow plugging problems occur for one of 4 reasons.....
1) Uncut trash sticking between the coulter and shin.........coulter not cutting and set too shallow due to the fact that it acts as a gauge wheel and carries the plow.
2) Trash dragging on the sleeve hitch, especially on the right side and under the attaching pin (where the hair pin sticks down). Caused by no ground clearance on our 1/4 scale machines and by #3.
3) Ridge of trash left by previous plow not running coulter. The tearing action of the board/shin leaves a pronounced ridge of "fluffy" trash......hard to cut with a coulter and easy to hang up on the sleeve hitch, coulter yoke, shin, etc.
4) Coulter swings into the shin / plow over cuts, pinches dirt/trash between shin and coulter.
IMHO, the solution is more trash clearance under the frame, a bit more clearance between the shin and coulter, a bad-a$$ed trash CUTTING coulter, and a plow bottom weighted/adjusted to hold said coulter in the ground.
Notched coulter will be created with a plasma cutter (after-hours in the weld shop at work) and sharpened to razor's edge on the belt sander. Trick will be to get the notch depth/radius correct to penetrate, hold trash, and cut (even in the depressions).
Now....<font size="+2">Who is hosting spring plow day?????</font> Come one folks, stand up and be counted!!!!
