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Archive through November 06, 2009
- Thread starter kide
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
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- Allen Schumacher
Frank, sadly. I dont think we make anything in the USA anymore that has balls in it.
What's the correct oil capacity for my 125?
It's a K301.
My dipstick has a loose top so I want to make sure I have the correct amount of oil in it. My manuals are "somewhere in the house" according to my wife ( who "helped" me by putting them "in a safe spot" )
Thanks
Jeff
My dipstick has a loose top so I want to make sure I have the correct amount of oil in it. My manuals are "somewhere in the house" according to my wife ( who "helped" me by putting them "in a safe spot" )
Thanks
Jeff
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Frank-
I think the HEIM front wheel bearings I bought for my 100 resto were USA made.
I think the HEIM front wheel bearings I bought for my 100 resto were USA made.
Here's the postmortem results on the K241.
The .030 piston didn't look all that bad, but the bore measure 3.301 with a telescope gauge.
The rod bore didn't look like it spun out, but there was a visible ridge on the rod journal of the crank. I miked it at 1.479.
The actuator lobe on the cam had a visible groove, it almost looked like it was worn almost completely round.
I might be able to salvage the head, and use it in a pinch, but that's about it, plus try to remove the PTO and see if it's rebuildable.
Free to good home, or it can be broken up and put in the weight box I guess.
The .030 piston didn't look all that bad, but the bore measure 3.301 with a telescope gauge.
The rod bore didn't look like it spun out, but there was a visible ridge on the rod journal of the crank. I miked it at 1.479.
The actuator lobe on the cam had a visible groove, it almost looked like it was worn almost completely round.
I might be able to salvage the head, and use it in a pinch, but that's about it, plus try to remove the PTO and see if it's rebuildable.
Free to good home, or it can be broken up and put in the weight box I guess.
I have a CC 1650 that I notice will run down the battery to the point that it won't crank after sitting awhile. I charge up the battery and it starts right up. I am thinking there is some sort of parasitic load, but don't know where I should check. Any ideas?
kide
Well-known member
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- Aug 27, 2006
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- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Todd:
As a start, pull the ground cable from the battery and put a 12 volt test light between the cable and the negative battery terminal. If it lights, with everything turned off, you've got something drawing the battery down. You might have a charging system problem, as I believe your engine uses a stator and solid state regulator. One of the diodes in the regulator could be leaking or shorted - if your testing shows that you've got a draw on the battery and you think it might be the regulator, just disconnect it and see if the draw on the battery goes away. BTW - if you've got a Volt Ohm meter that has the facility for testing current draw, you can use that in place of the test light - same thing, disconnect the ground on the battery, etc. Other than the Voltage regulator, I'd start looking for possible reasons that the battery isn't getting a good charge - like bad grounds.... I would be surprised if there was a short drawing the battery down, as usually a short doesn't "slow leak", it fries the wires ....
As a start, pull the ground cable from the battery and put a 12 volt test light between the cable and the negative battery terminal. If it lights, with everything turned off, you've got something drawing the battery down. You might have a charging system problem, as I believe your engine uses a stator and solid state regulator. One of the diodes in the regulator could be leaking or shorted - if your testing shows that you've got a draw on the battery and you think it might be the regulator, just disconnect it and see if the draw on the battery goes away. BTW - if you've got a Volt Ohm meter that has the facility for testing current draw, you can use that in place of the test light - same thing, disconnect the ground on the battery, etc. Other than the Voltage regulator, I'd start looking for possible reasons that the battery isn't getting a good charge - like bad grounds.... I would be surprised if there was a short drawing the battery down, as usually a short doesn't "slow leak", it fries the wires ....
proessler
Well-known member
Dennis F The Hwy. Dept. had a number of JD 770 road graders with FWA hyd.drive that didn't work very well , sounds like contruction & Ag were working together blindfolded ... Also Simplicity has a hyd. FWA as an option on their garden tractors. But heard from local dealer troubles with the hyds.on those units. I'd like to have CC with mechanical front wheel drive...awesome for a PD & many other jobs/play.Had fun PD day @ NE IOWA! Plenty of Iowa dirt to play with & only 120 miles.
Bruce,
That is the muffler included in the optional "quiet kit" that was available for that series of tractors.
It is very similar to the stock muffler used on the 169's.
If you do a forum search I'm sure there are photos of what the kit includes.
That is the muffler included in the optional "quiet kit" that was available for that series of tractors.
It is very similar to the stock muffler used on the 169's.
If you do a forum search I'm sure there are photos of what the kit includes.
PAUL - Dan H had his FWA 100 @ PD #1. Since I was running a very similar tractor, 72 W/K241 I paid close attention to how His FWA worked. With no added weight He was able to go about anythere. Only problem He had was the center section of the frt axle pushing up a big pile of bean straw sometimes. I've had that same problem @ PD's before. Both at the frt end, rockshaft for raising my sleeve hitch, and at the frt of the transmission/reduction housing. Even the 982 with the taller 26" rear rubber drags bottom sometimes. Guess that's why MY SGT would have the 8" x 16" rear rubber. That would be the SGT made from the A/B/C 4-speed rearend instead of the Cub.
I remember seeing a BIG Bolens GT years ago similar in size to a SGT, 982, etc that was factory FWA. Would be interesting to try to mount an axle off one of them onto a CC.
On the hyd. assist, about the only thing I've heard it works good on is combines, many people run MudHog hyd. assist axles on combines in wet conditions.
I remember seeing a BIG Bolens GT years ago similar in size to a SGT, 982, etc that was factory FWA. Would be interesting to try to mount an axle off one of them onto a CC.
On the hyd. assist, about the only thing I've heard it works good on is combines, many people run MudHog hyd. assist axles on combines in wet conditions.
PAUL D. - sleeve hitch aerator....the rated lift capacity on the Cat.O 3-pt is 400# twelve inches behind the center of the lift link balls on the lift arms. Not sure I've ever seen a rating on the sleeve hitch. Not sure how high the stock "Sleeve hitch adapter" raises but You may be better off making the aerator "Semi-mounted" as opposed to fully mounted. Unless You have on-board hyd. or a spring assist it might be real hard to raise the aerator.
My aerator "tips" in a turn because of the way the hitch is made, and the outside spikes hit the ground which is only a problem when I turn on the concrete drive. I never even raise it when turning on grass. I need to make some "Adjustments" to the lift links but since I only use the sleeve hitch once a year pulling the aerator it's hasn't been a "Priority" to drill four new holes in the lift links that connect the rockshaft to the sleeve hitch. I notice the problem most when I have the moldboard plow on the hitch, the point of the plow only clears the ground an inch, maybe two. I need to drill new holes closer together so the hitch raises higher.
If I made another aerator specifically for the 982 I'd make it for the Cat. O 3-point with a hyd. raised trailing pair of wheels/tires kinda like used to help raise a BIG mounted corn planter. Think of a pair of tail wheels off a semi-mounted plow but only they don't swivel.
What's funny is I have all of about $10 invested in this aerator. Couple Bucks for welding rod (LOTS of rod!) and thirty 3/8" x 1" grade 5 hex cap screws, flat washers, lock washers & hex nuts. The rest was scrap steel. It did take Me several Beers to sharpen the points on the 42 spikes, they were 1/2" dia. CDS.
My aerator "tips" in a turn because of the way the hitch is made, and the outside spikes hit the ground which is only a problem when I turn on the concrete drive. I never even raise it when turning on grass. I need to make some "Adjustments" to the lift links but since I only use the sleeve hitch once a year pulling the aerator it's hasn't been a "Priority" to drill four new holes in the lift links that connect the rockshaft to the sleeve hitch. I notice the problem most when I have the moldboard plow on the hitch, the point of the plow only clears the ground an inch, maybe two. I need to drill new holes closer together so the hitch raises higher.
If I made another aerator specifically for the 982 I'd make it for the Cat. O 3-point with a hyd. raised trailing pair of wheels/tires kinda like used to help raise a BIG mounted corn planter. Think of a pair of tail wheels off a semi-mounted plow but only they don't swivel.
What's funny is I have all of about $10 invested in this aerator. Couple Bucks for welding rod (LOTS of rod!) and thirty 3/8" x 1" grade 5 hex cap screws, flat washers, lock washers & hex nuts. The rest was scrap steel. It did take Me several Beers to sharpen the points on the 42 spikes, they were 1/2" dia. CDS.
Dennis:
I converted my 1250 over to hydraulic lift several years ago. I fabricated a new lift lever on the left side to make it easier to control the hydro. With the control on the right it was very hard to control the hydraulic lift & hydro at the same time with one hand, especialy using the blade to level dirt etc.
I converted my 1250 over to hydraulic lift several years ago. I fabricated a new lift lever on the left side to make it easier to control the hydro. With the control on the right it was very hard to control the hydraulic lift & hydro at the same time with one hand, especialy using the blade to level dirt etc.
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Dennis:
When we first built our house, I needed a lawn rake to pull behind the MF7(8?) hydro. No bucks, but I had lots of 20 penny nails, some 1/2 " conduit, scrap steel, brazing rod and my torches. I even made it with a release so you could dump on the fly.. I paired up two 3 foot lengths of conduit, dropped the nails between them and started brazing. Worked pretty good, I gave it to my son years ago - I think it got left behind during a move... I didn't have to sharpen the nails
I use one of the "star wheel" type aerators from TSC, with about 150 lbs of weights from the neighbors old weight bench on top (they were flat, rectangular and had a couple of holes in the center, worked pretty good to just weld a couple of rods on top pointed straight up to stack them.
I'm afraind if I used a hollow point (plugger) aerator, I'd have moles popping up all over the place.....Hey - we could play "whack-a-mole" then.
Back to cutting wood, may be down to my last load or two today - haven't got one quite as good as the one in my profile, I'm cutting smaller trees out of fence rows this year, ash, oak and wild cherry so far..I get a little less than a face cord out of most of the trees.
When we first built our house, I needed a lawn rake to pull behind the MF7(8?) hydro. No bucks, but I had lots of 20 penny nails, some 1/2 " conduit, scrap steel, brazing rod and my torches. I even made it with a release so you could dump on the fly.. I paired up two 3 foot lengths of conduit, dropped the nails between them and started brazing. Worked pretty good, I gave it to my son years ago - I think it got left behind during a move... I didn't have to sharpen the nails
I use one of the "star wheel" type aerators from TSC, with about 150 lbs of weights from the neighbors old weight bench on top (they were flat, rectangular and had a couple of holes in the center, worked pretty good to just weld a couple of rods on top pointed straight up to stack them.
I'm afraind if I used a hollow point (plugger) aerator, I'd have moles popping up all over the place.....Hey - we could play "whack-a-mole" then.
Back to cutting wood, may be down to my last load or two today - haven't got one quite as good as the one in my profile, I'm cutting smaller trees out of fence rows this year, ash, oak and wild cherry so far..I get a little less than a face cord out of most of the trees.
J
jott
Guest
Well Im back from a VERY long weekend of walking and fun. I found some prety interesting stuff down there, but not much cub literature. I did however find a company letter to a person about a newly purchased Cozy Cab. The date of the letter is January 20,1969. The letter reads "
Mr. R. L. Daul
Dept. of Roads
State of Nebraska
Lincoln, Nebraska 68500
Dear Bob,
We will deliver to you F. O. B. Lincoln, Nebraska, the attached Cozy Cab for your #125 Cub Cadet Tractor. The price will be $264.50, which includes freight. You will install the cab, as per our phone conversation.
The cab will be shipped to Art Chaplin's Location for mounting.
Many thanks.
Yours truly,
J. A. SHAFFER
Supv. Product Knowledge
The cab will fit the 100,102,104,105,122,123,124, and 125 models.
Front
Back
The guy had $20 on it, so i gave him a $20 bill and he gave a me a $5 bill back.
Matt S, The CC 36 should bolt on since it is a NF and it has the two two bolt-on holes above the QA latch.
Mr. R. L. Daul
Dept. of Roads
State of Nebraska
Lincoln, Nebraska 68500
Dear Bob,
We will deliver to you F. O. B. Lincoln, Nebraska, the attached Cozy Cab for your #125 Cub Cadet Tractor. The price will be $264.50, which includes freight. You will install the cab, as per our phone conversation.
The cab will be shipped to Art Chaplin's Location for mounting.
Many thanks.
Yours truly,
J. A. SHAFFER
Supv. Product Knowledge
The cab will fit the 100,102,104,105,122,123,124, and 125 models.
Front
Back
The guy had $20 on it, so i gave him a $20 bill and he gave a me a $5 bill back.
Matt S, The CC 36 should bolt on since it is a NF and it has the two two bolt-on holes above the QA latch.
J
jott
Guest
Tom H, I went to the National Farm Toy Show in Dyersville, Iowa.
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