Archive through November 06, 2008

[rrschmitt]

Paul B,

Interesting find on that homemade tractor. Those front hubs look like they are for some type of industrial application/use. Wow, a brand new IH Cub Cadet tranny! It's amazing that the transmission shafts and gears aren't all rusted together from not having any oil in the tranny for 40+ years. At least someone kept it dry and out of the weather all those years. Will make an interesting conversation piece at shows once you get it finished.

 

[aaytay]

John-
Welcome to the forum.

In my opinion, you will spend more time, effort, and money trying to make a non-stock/ill-fitting engine work than you would just rebuilding the original engine.

Also remember, once you make major modifications to a tractor, you GREATLY diminish it's value even if the mods are reverseable.

 

[rrschmitt]

John V,

Welcome to the forum. You will be much better off rebuilding your cast iron Kohler engine rather than trying to install a crappy Briggs and Scrapiron, or worse a Tecumseh engine, in your Cubbie. A rebuilt Kohler will outlast either of these other engines 3 or 4 to 1.

 

[hchant]

Shane, Thanks for the info. I will keep watching to see what you come up with.

 

[jgodwin]

When adjusting the speed control at the compression clamp, am I supposed to grease the shaft before tighteneing the clamp down?

 

[jgodwin]

On our 149, the steering has about 4" OF SLACK. cAN THIS BE ADJUSTED OUT?

 

[kide]

Joe:
Yes

 

[jvig]

Thanks for the quick replies. I have an Ace front tine roto tiller with a 6 HP B&S on it that is well over 15 yrs old and still runs like a champ, so I guess I differ with you on their quality. To me a modern engine has it's advantages such as, it's smaller & lighter for the same HP, built in charging system, alot less wiring & electronic ignition. AS far as the value of the tractor, I'm not too worried about that as I dont plan on selling it. A modification doesn't have to be ill-fitting if it's done in a mechanically sound fashion.

 

[fcurrier]

Joe: (wherever you are) Kendell's right.

Now that we've had our fun, there's an answer to "how", too. I'm taking it for granted that you don't have a manual. Most of the play usually comes from the steering box. The tie rod ends also get worn. Add all the little loosenesses up and they equal a big looseness. 4" is a LOT of looseness! Start with the steering box. I went through the FAQs when I first read your message and didn't see it in there. Hmmm -- maybe it should be?

 

[cscannon]

Charlie,

That’s awesome news. Now I just need to save up for it. The reason why I am interested in one is so I can use a CAT 0 rear blade to do minor maintenance to the private gravel road I live on. Do you think a 12HP NF will be enough to effectively do this? I am planning on added weight to the front of the tractor and I have two sets of wheel weights and chains for the rear.

cscannon

 

[nqueensland]

John- I totally agree with Art on your Kohler engine. The 12 horse engine that is currently in your Cub Cadet will greatly outlast any modern built engine of its size if rebuilt properly. They are easy to rebuild and parts are readily available for them. Just because the engine isn't "modern" doesn't make it bad or obsolete.

 

[kide]

Cubfaq 18a
Cubfaq 80
Search for "tie rod ends" or "McMaster-Carr"

 

[kide]

The question of putting later model engines in reminds me of the conversion of 2n-9n-8n Ford tractors from the stock 4 cylinder flathead to a later 8 cylinder passenger car 239 or 259 CID flathead (Funk conversion). They look really cool, and are great for parades, but talk to somebody that tried to use one to plow.. The torque range was all wrong for the gearing, resulting in a combination that had less low end "grunt" than stock. The combination of a stock Cub transmission/differential and something like an 18 horse B&S Vanguard will give similar results...and I know about the pullers, but they come off the line wide open and shut down when they quit turning the wheels over. That all being said, this discussion probably belongs in the Cool IH Cub Cadets Not OEM but better'n' new ! ! ! section..

 

[lbuttke]

Tim

Heres what a 102 grill and hood looks like when attached to a 107. ( the hood was shortened to fit)

 

[lbuttke]

I spent the last couple of days getting the snow removal fleet prepaired for the first snow fall

From left to right
127 with a QA 36 snowthrower
102 with snowblade
72 (12hp motor) with loader.

 

[pkeenan]

Help needed for Kohler Carb;
I have just re-installed the carb on my 782. I added a throtle shaft bushing to account for some play in the shaft. It is now tight. I also cleaned out the carb and changed the inlet needle and seat as well as all of the gaskets. The tractor starts, but I can not accelerate past idle without the choke being pulled on. At idle, the position of the choke has no effect on the engine operation. It runs the same no matter what position it is in. I am not sure what I messed up on reassembly, but something is not right. Any suggestions for what to check would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

[theaton]

Lonny, Nice snow fleet there!
John V., welcome to the forum. I have wondered in the past about "new vs old horsepower". I believe the newer (ohv) engines are more fuel efficient than the cast iron (flathead) engines. Also, the cast iron Kholers to me seem to have more grunt underload. To borrow a page from Steve B., my "butt dyno" can feel the difference.

B&S engines are good, never owned a T, my cub sticks with the Kholer.

 

[tkeefe]

Kraig, Lonny, Thanks guys. My tower rotted completely off at the bottom where it bolts to frame. So it's off to look for more parts. Is any of that info documented anywhere or just speaking from experience.

Thanks again, Tim K.

 

[kide]

Pat K:
Based on the choke having no effect at idle (I'd expect full choke to kill the motor), and assuming the choke plate is actually closing, I'd look for a severe fuel flow problem, most likely with the needle/seat combo you just installed. Is it possible you have the float level waaaayyy low, or that it got mis-assembled and the needle isn't opening more than just a smidgen?? If the choke was killing it at idle, but allowing it to run at off-idle speeds, I'd look for a plugged main jet circuit... Good hunting !

 

[digger]

Chris C.
IMHO a 7 horse Original Cub could do it if you have enough traction.
I still say an O could pull a house if you could get the tires stuck down enough.