...and yes, the foam filled tires feel like they are filled with lead. And yes, to change a tire, you have to cut off the tire and blast off the foam. My rims will probably have to be replaced. Foam is the LAST thing I would put in a tire.
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Archive through January 01, 2005
- Thread starter mhomrighausen
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
now you know why they invented AIR !
easier to breath too
I used a 7000 Flat Top 2 years that had foam filled fronts and 1000 pounds of added weight on the front , when that sucker hit a hole you had a ruptered kidney !!
easier to breath too
I used a 7000 Flat Top 2 years that had foam filled fronts and 1000 pounds of added weight on the front , when that sucker hit a hole you had a ruptered kidney !!
<font color="0000ff"><font size="+2">All PIN TOOL Buyers</font> please see this notice !</font>
In The Machine Shop section
In The Machine Shop section
Well it's nice to see that I can still cause some controversy and perk the eye's and ears up on you guys.
BTW, I had this stuck away for the New FAQ page,
I think the easiest way to make a forklift type machine would be to mount a Case garden tractor transmission backwards since it is run by a remote pump. It would also be nice to put the bigger Case tractors rear wheels on what would now be the front of the machine.
Tyler,
I missed the point of what you were talking about for reverse speed. If you are looking to get more reverse speed because you want to do a forklift style loader just flip the ring gear in the rearend to the other side. As far as I know the case is symetrical so all you do is take off the axle housings, take out the axle/ring gear assembly, and flip it end for end (left to right) and reassemble. Now you have the faster speed in reverse and slower forward for a hydro and 3 speeds reverse and one forward for a gearshift tranny.
This is one of the oldest tricks in the book. Look at any tractor or car (a 50's VW bus for example) where they use gears at the end of the axle to provide a reduction and it will have the ring gear flipped
Jim E
I missed the point of what you were talking about for reverse speed. If you are looking to get more reverse speed because you want to do a forklift style loader just flip the ring gear in the rearend to the other side. As far as I know the case is symetrical so all you do is take off the axle housings, take out the axle/ring gear assembly, and flip it end for end (left to right) and reassemble. Now you have the faster speed in reverse and slower forward for a hydro and 3 speeds reverse and one forward for a gearshift tranny.
This is one of the oldest tricks in the book. Look at any tractor or car (a 50's VW bus for example) where they use gears at the end of the axle to provide a reduction and it will have the ring gear flipped
Jim E
Hi
My cadet 125, vintage 1965 has developed a quirk. The engine runs about four minutes then slowly stalls, followed by a backfire. this only happens at high rpm or under load, such as snowblowing or mowing. I have examined the bowl, float, and the basic carb adjustments, but am stumped. It runs fine otherwise, so I don't think its a timing issue. Any ideas? LK}}}
My cadet 125, vintage 1965 has developed a quirk. The engine runs about four minutes then slowly stalls, followed by a backfire. this only happens at high rpm or under load, such as snowblowing or mowing. I have examined the bowl, float, and the basic carb adjustments, but am stumped. It runs fine otherwise, so I don't think its a timing issue. Any ideas? LK}}}
sblunier
Well-known member
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- Messages
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- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Larry,
Check the sediment bowl under the tank......if you don't get a nice full stream of gas out of the fuel line there is a problem.
Might also be a good time to spend $7 for a carb kit and $12 for a can of carb cleaner and completely clean and rebuild the carb.
Check the sediment bowl under the tank......if you don't get a nice full stream of gas out of the fuel line there is a problem.
Might also be a good time to spend $7 for a carb kit and $12 for a can of carb cleaner and completely clean and rebuild the carb.
Larry, in addition to what Steve suggested, check the vent in the fuel tank cap. Sometimes these get plugged with oily dust/dirt, if the tank can't breath the fuel won't flow. If these suggestions don't fix it, it's possible that the condensor is going bad. I had one once that would fail after several minutes of operation. The engine would stumble then stall it wouldn't restart until it had cooled for 10 or 15 minutes. And the last possibility I can think of would be a sticking exhaust valve but I don't think that's what you have going wrong.
Larry- I dunno, Kraig- sounds an awful lot like what I went through with the 109. Larry- what Kraig referred to, is a propensity for the K-flathead to deposit enough cooked-oil-sludge onto the exhaust valve stem to make it 'stick' and not close completely. The common solution is to put a little bit of Marvel Mystery Oil in your gasoline tank... capful or two... the MMO tends to wash this stuff away and keep the valve operating properly.
If you're losing ignition, it might be a failing coil or condenser, but restricted fuel flow might do that too.
If it starts to sag-out, but you can keep it running by disengaging the clutch and PTO quick, shut the throttle down to idle, and keep it going, then bring the back up before it occurs again, chances are best that it's a stickin' valve.
If you're losing ignition, it might be a failing coil or condenser, but restricted fuel flow might do that too.
If it starts to sag-out, but you can keep it running by disengaging the clutch and PTO quick, shut the throttle down to idle, and keep it going, then bring the back up before it occurs again, chances are best that it's a stickin' valve.
What about the backfiring? What would cause that? The one arm 147 backfires when I shut it off sometimes. Is the fuel to rich causing a excess of unburned gas in the muffler? Is the fuel to lean causing the head, valves and exhaust to get too hot. Then when the spark is removed from turning the ignition off the gas hits the hot parts and bang?
(Message edited by tcbusch on January 03, 2005)
(Message edited by tcbusch on January 03, 2005)
Terry idle it down before shutting it off. My 127 likes to "shoot" me in the back when I get about three steps from it.
I don't think a plugged air vent in the cap will cause a backfire , I've had them "run out" of gas before with a plugged vent and they just die slowly. (and suck in the tank sides)
I don't think a plugged air vent in the cap will cause a backfire , I've had them "run out" of gas before with a plugged vent and they just die slowly. (and suck in the tank sides)
Larry,
I had a 123 that did the same thing. It ran fine all summer running the tiller but when I put the blade on, the 1st snow it did the same thing as your 125. Mine would start right back up but would only run at an idle. After rebuiling and soaking the carb 2 times, checking the fuel flow out of the tank by seeing how long it would take to fill a gallon jug, I finally changed the condenser. I did not have any trouble the rest of the winter.
I had a 123 that did the same thing. It ran fine all summer running the tiller but when I put the blade on, the 1st snow it did the same thing as your 125. Mine would start right back up but would only run at an idle. After rebuiling and soaking the carb 2 times, checking the fuel flow out of the tank by seeing how long it would take to fill a gallon jug, I finally changed the condenser. I did not have any trouble the rest of the winter.
