While I'm not against B&S engines, I don't think that it's right to compare tiller use with Cub use. A tiller is used a few times a year and Cubs are used daily for much of the year(mowing,plowing, snow removal and general joy-riding).
-
This community needs YOUR help today. With the ever increasing fees of everything (server, software, domain, e-mail) , we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of IH Cub Cadets. You get a lot of great new account perks including access to private forums. If you sign up for annual, I will ship a few IH Cub Cadet Forum decals too in addition to all the account perks you get. You can see what it looks like below.
Sign up here: https://www.ihcubcadet.com/account/upgrades
Archive through November 06, 2008
- Thread starter rrschmitt
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
Kendell; I set the float twice. If I follow what you are saying, I may have the tab bent too far so that the float hangs down too low when the carb is upright in its normal position. This would let too much fuel in?
I think the spec called for the distance to be about 1 1/32" in the down position.
Could you explain how the float level impacts operation. Thanks.
I think the spec called for the distance to be about 1 1/32" in the down position.
Could you explain how the float level impacts operation. Thanks.
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Pat:
No, just the opposite - it's possible the level of gas in the bowl is too LOW. Float drop (set with the carb upright), limits how far the float drops, but is more about keeping the float from dropping so far that the needle gets cocked in the seat (you'd get gas running out of the carb if this were to happen). Float level (set with the carb inverted), is what determines the level of gas in the bowl. The level should look just about like the illustration. If you invert the carb and the seam of the float is not close to parallel to the bowl mating surface,(assuming it's a brass float with a soldered seam), then the level will be off. If the end away from the hinge is way far away from the mating surface, your fuel level in the bowl will be too low. I was suggesting originally that the engine is starving for fuel...
No, just the opposite - it's possible the level of gas in the bowl is too LOW. Float drop (set with the carb upright), limits how far the float drops, but is more about keeping the float from dropping so far that the needle gets cocked in the seat (you'd get gas running out of the carb if this were to happen). Float level (set with the carb inverted), is what determines the level of gas in the bowl. The level should look just about like the illustration. If you invert the carb and the seam of the float is not close to parallel to the bowl mating surface,(assuming it's a brass float with a soldered seam), then the level will be off. If the end away from the hinge is way far away from the mating surface, your fuel level in the bowl will be too low. I was suggesting originally that the engine is starving for fuel...
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2006
- Messages
- 3,290
- displayname
- Home of the Plow Special
Pat K-
Is it possible the fuel tank (or fuel line) is gunked up with crud that's restricting the fuel flow to your carb?
Is it possible the fuel tank (or fuel line) is gunked up with crud that's restricting the fuel flow to your carb?
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Art:
After about 50 years, it's not that I forget them, it's just that I assume others would check the obvious ...... That's when you do a "system reset" and start over with the questions like "why did you take the carburetor apart in the first place"??
Again, I suggested that it's starving because he said that at idle full choke won't kill it and it won't run above idle with the choke off. If it died at idle with the choke on, but ran above idle, I'd say the HS circuit was plugged, but it sounds like it's plain just getting a drizzle of gas, not enough to flood it out at idle with a closed choke.......(clear as mud)
Aww crap - does this have a fuel pump on it?? (just looking at the parts blowup) Pat - check that your fuel pump is working properly.......
After about 50 years, it's not that I forget them, it's just that I assume others would check the obvious ...... That's when you do a "system reset" and start over with the questions like "why did you take the carburetor apart in the first place"??
Again, I suggested that it's starving because he said that at idle full choke won't kill it and it won't run above idle with the choke off. If it died at idle with the choke on, but ran above idle, I'd say the HS circuit was plugged, but it sounds like it's plain just getting a drizzle of gas, not enough to flood it out at idle with a closed choke.......(clear as mud)
Aww crap - does this have a fuel pump on it?? (just looking at the parts blowup) Pat - check that your fuel pump is working properly.......
I was wondering if someone can help me out. I'd like to switch from the old worn out turfs on my cub 129 to an ag type rear tire and one of the tri rib front tires.
The ag tires I think I have found a decent deal, Duro HF255 23*8.8*12 (same as the ones on there) for $42ea and $20 for shipping for 2 (tiresunlimited.com) if anyone has a cheaper source please let me know.
The tri rib I cant seem to find any in the stock size. My fronts are labeled 16*6.5*8 but most the tri rib tires dont even use this numbering convention it seems and I dont know if there is an equivilent or a range that will fit.
I'd like to get these on before the snow flies if anyone can help. And would this setup be good for pushing snow with a 42" blade without needing chains? I plan on making some DIY cement wheel weights and maybe a diy weight bar on the rear end too so I'll have plenty of weight. But my driveway does have a good incline to it, and it is gravel.
The ag tires I think I have found a decent deal, Duro HF255 23*8.8*12 (same as the ones on there) for $42ea and $20 for shipping for 2 (tiresunlimited.com) if anyone has a cheaper source please let me know.
The tri rib I cant seem to find any in the stock size. My fronts are labeled 16*6.5*8 but most the tri rib tires dont even use this numbering convention it seems and I dont know if there is an equivilent or a range that will fit.
I'd like to get these on before the snow flies if anyone can help. And would this setup be good for pushing snow with a 42" blade without needing chains? I plan on making some DIY cement wheel weights and maybe a diy weight bar on the rear end too so I'll have plenty of weight. But my driveway does have a good incline to it, and it is gravel.
Tristan
Check out the for sale section of this forum, there you will find a set of tri-ribs in the size you are looking for.
As far as rear Ag tires, best bet it to surf the net and compare prices.
Chains on Ag tires dont offer much help unless you are on ice.
My driveway is gravel, I dont use chains on Ag tires(see my photos below) only on turf tires for snow removal duty.
But that is just one mans opinon an the Ag's with chains verses without chains debate.
Check out the for sale section of this forum, there you will find a set of tri-ribs in the size you are looking for.
As far as rear Ag tires, best bet it to surf the net and compare prices.
Chains on Ag tires dont offer much help unless you are on ice.
My driveway is gravel, I dont use chains on Ag tires(see my photos below) only on turf tires for snow removal duty.
But that is just one mans opinon an the Ag's with chains verses without chains debate.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,826
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Tristan,
You need chains on any driven rubber tire that is to be used for snow removal on a Cub sized tractor...end of story. Ag, turf, whatever, just chain them up. Rubber + Ice/packed snow + incline/rut/bump/etc. = you don't move.
I run good 2 link chains on my ag tires and have very good luck in the winter. Last winter I didn't get the chains on before the 1st snow and I felt like I was peeing in the wind with the blade and the thrower tractors (both heavily weighted with Titan Tru-Power ags). Stopped and chained up for MUCH better results.
You need chains on any driven rubber tire that is to be used for snow removal on a Cub sized tractor...end of story. Ag, turf, whatever, just chain them up. Rubber + Ice/packed snow + incline/rut/bump/etc. = you don't move.
I run good 2 link chains on my ag tires and have very good luck in the winter. Last winter I didn't get the chains on before the 1st snow and I felt like I was peeing in the wind with the blade and the thrower tractors (both heavily weighted with Titan Tru-Power ags). Stopped and chained up for MUCH better results.
I have to agree with Steve on the chains on ags or turfs. I do both.
Ag tires with chains work great,
Turfs with chains IMHO work better,
And ags on the front are just the thing to add, IMHO.
Ag tires with chains work great,
Turfs with chains IMHO work better,
And ags on the front are just the thing to add, IMHO.
In fact, I'm thinking about adding chains and ags to the 1450 dual and putting the hydraulic angle blade on the front with the Cat.0 on the back with the Brinly rear Cat.0 blade, and of course a cab.
I tellya what, if you ever get a chance to use a cab, go for it. Those things are great!
Especially when the wind changes on ya.
Especially when the wind changes on ya.
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2006
- Messages
- 3,290
- displayname
- Home of the Plow Special
Charlie-
Nice set up there with the 1450 dual.
Question: How are you going to run an <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> front blade anda Brinly rear blade at the same time? Do those Cat-0 hitches have the "extra hydraulics" option?
Nice set up there with the 1450 dual.
Question: How are you going to run an <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> front blade anda Brinly rear blade at the same time? Do those Cat-0 hitches have the "extra hydraulics" option?
I have never had to use chains with this setup
But it might be the brand of tire I am useing
24-8-12
I belive it does matter what type of tread pattern you are useing for the job at hand.
I find this tread pattern to be a good all around pattern for many different jobs.
But it might be the brand of tire I am useing
24-8-12
I belive it does matter what type of tread pattern you are useing for the job at hand.
I find this tread pattern to be a good all around pattern for many different jobs.
Lonny, care to mention what tires those are? I would think they would perform better due to the tread lugs being 'hollow' kinda like siping on a car tire. but I am guessing they are going to be a lot more $$$.
Yeah I saw the tri ribs on the for sale section, I was hoping there were cheaper ones out there that that. And I figure they would be gone before I have the money anyway... I'm just planning ahead right now. But I do need to do something about the rears before it snows to much... if I can get some chains thats fine. I really havent looked yet but did notice some chains at homedepot.com for 23" wheels... they were $115 each
I assume I can get em a lot cheaper at someplace like tractor supply.
Yeah I saw the tri ribs on the for sale section, I was hoping there were cheaper ones out there that that. And I figure they would be gone before I have the money anyway... I'm just planning ahead right now. But I do need to do something about the rears before it snows to much... if I can get some chains thats fine. I really havent looked yet but did notice some chains at homedepot.com for 23" wheels... they were $115 each
Art,
Jim
Your question is really on the wrong page since Cub Lo-Boy's, both the numbered series(154,185,174)and the earlier off set models ARE NOT Cub Cadets, but to answer your question, a Lo-Boy of either type is a little light, both in engine power and in weight, to use a bush-hog. They are good with both a trailing or rear mounted finish mower, or with a belly mounted finish mower in the 42" range, or up to 60" if the grass isn't too tall/thick, but they really are not made for a bush hog........plus the PTO turns backwards and at a non-standard speed.
Your question is really on the wrong page since Cub Lo-Boy's, both the numbered series(154,185,174)and the earlier off set models ARE NOT Cub Cadets, but to answer your question, a Lo-Boy of either type is a little light, both in engine power and in weight, to use a bush-hog. They are good with both a trailing or rear mounted finish mower, or with a belly mounted finish mower in the 42" range, or up to 60" if the grass isn't too tall/thick, but they really are not made for a bush hog........plus the PTO turns backwards and at a non-standard speed.
Tristan S.
Yea but what Lonny isn't tellin ya is, His drive is as flat as a pool table.
Yea but what Lonny isn't tellin ya is, His drive is as flat as a pool table.
