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Archive through November 03, 2003

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Tedd,

The other thing to consider....

Get a medium ratio.... 3.55 is perfect and then kick it out of OD for towing heavy loads. Then you get the best of both worlds.

(Yeah, I know, most tow ratings are given with OD off, but as long as the tranny does not "hunt" or constantly unlock the converter, most cub sized loads can be pulled in OD over the interstate)
 
TED - If You don't drive 20,000-25,000 miles a year and tow a LOT, diesel isn't worth it. they do run forever and get great milage. GADGET - When You put the 10% bigger tires on Your truck don't be disappointed if Your MPH stays the same or goes down. BTDT. Bigger, wider tires pull harder. On a dually there's only so much wider You can go, the insides of the dual can not rub. I'd see if someone makes a 215-85 R16 in a load range near what's listed on Your door sticker. That's the only way You'll get a larger "Roll Out" which means distance travelled per crankshaft revolution. Diesel's seem to burn fuel in just about perfect purportion to the amount of torque they have to produce. With bigger tires Your engine is running slower but working harder but still producing the same amount of true work, pushing a BIG hole thru the air & shoving Your big heavy truck thru it! ;-)
 
Paul-
Nice job snaggin' 510.

Hey, the next time you have your camera out and you're shootin' pictures of something on the trailer, could you step back and take a few overall shots of the trailer for me? I've got a tandem car hauler much like yours and want to set mine up similar to yours with the sides and floor anchors. I just thought yours looked real classy at PD!
 
Craig C
5-20-F

Tedd
515 belongs to James Bowen in Mississippi. The "strap " as you call it is not missing. The deck was made from two 4 x 8 sheets of plywood, and the "straps" are under the joints between the plywood (one full sheet, and the other cut into two 2' wide pieces to make a 6 X 10 deck).
 
Paul -

Isn't that the same code as from "409?"

Thanks!
 
Dennis - Thanks for the heads up and the analysis. I do realize I need to stick with the narrow tires on a dually. I don't even have enough lug left to put a shim between the rear rims to get more spacing! What ticks me off is I had just bough NEW 265x78 R16's for the old GMC just 6 weeks before the tranny went kaput for the third time. They are too wide to use on the dually! :-(

Also, in accordance with what you were bringing out...another guy told me it was very possibly my penchant for tall, meaty tires that tore the tranny out in the first place! Didn't matter that I don't even pull and EMPTY trailer in OD, he seemed to think the I was making it work to hard just to push the truck alone, not to mention pull a trailer! Gadget
 
And then there are these out there:

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13584.jpg

13585.jpg
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GADGET - Hope you got a Different DEALER and Different Tranmission in Your new truck. Wife's car started shifting a little hard after 80,000 miles. We had it serviced even though it wasn't required around 50,000. We sent IT down the pike in a hurry! I've NEVER had an automatic transmission that I haven't had some sort of problem with. Maybe minor problems but still problems. After having two New Process 435 4-speeds in My first two full-size pickups I'll never have a New Process and possibly not even a New Venture manual trans in a truck ever again. The ZF in My current truck, also used behind the DuraMax is a fine transmission. I think it's terrible auto companies can't make a transmission that lasts as long as the engine anymore! RIGHT STEVE B.???
 
Different dealer, but same make truck, GMC (don't start with me, I happen to LIKE GMCs!)...and not new either, it's a '96 (can't afford new!) However, being a deisel dually K3500 4x4 it has th 4L80 tranny instead of the Turbo 700 like I had in the old K1500 4x4. The shifting is all controlled by the computer based on RPM, torque, and load. Kinda freaky... not at all like the 5-speed I had in my last dually. Gadget
 
Ahh, nothing quite as sweet at getting railroaded out of work!

Found out today that my former boss doesn't know what the hell Mountain time is, got in trouble for posting to the Forum during my working hours, after I explained it and then reaffirmed that it is OK to view the net in off-hours. So, those of you unlucky enough to work for a female engineer that thinks she always has to prove herself and be a "yes-person"; beware.
 
I was just looking at the Plow day pictures and noticed something that interested me.

Does the coulter not help on the plow? Is that why none of the plows have the coulter on them.

I would have thought that it would aid, not detract.
 
Frank, the coulter does help, but when the field is trashy, it is really easy to plug the plow with it installed.

Speaking of trash, I picked up a full pickup load of tree roots, etc that was plowed up near the neighbor's grove ;-)
 
Man, you guys are making me miss my Dodge. I'm hardly a Dodge fan, but I got 25 MPG alomost consistantly with or without a tralier. It had 3.55's and single rear wheels. This Ferd with 4.10's and duals got 10.5 until I put a chip in it :-( Both are diesels.

Denny, they CAN build a tranny that will last, but I doubt you'll see it on the market ;-)
 
Help!

I started looking at sand blasting equipment today, and came away fairly confused and have no idea what will actually do the job I want to do. They place I went had both cabinets and tanks to put sand in.

The question is, what do you guys have? I intend to clean up implements, parts, etc, prior to painting. At the present time I don't expect to do large things like a cub hood, so can get by with a smaller machine (I think).

I don't want to spend a lot of money, so want to get one machine just big enough to do a decent job. I will need an air compressor too, which will then lead to a paint gun, etc etc etc etc.

So ............ what are you using, how well does it work, and what is your advice?

Thanks

Charlie
 
Charles McCarty
The first thing to think about is the size of air compressor reguired. You need at least a 5 hp compressor if you are planning on doing any real blasting. (I have a two stage unit) I do the small items in my cabinet using Beads or sand. (sand is needed if you have deep rust. I can change from one to the other in minutes. For the large items I use a POT blaster.I did a cub frame yesterday in a little over 30 minutes. It was a wide frame 169 and I took it to bare metal.
It did not have a lot of rust so it didn't take long. Blasting is a dirty job. Don't try it with your glasses on! Get an old pair to use. Don't put your hand in front of the nozzle--it will cut you! Don't even try to blast on a damp day, it won't work.( A light bulb left on in the cabinet will help some.) Best of luck. Ben
 
Tedd, You may not beleive this but I got a package today. thanks.
 
Charles:

The major expense will be the compressor, as Ben has said, blasting uses a lot of air and requires a large compressor. When selecting a compressor, the most important thing to consider is it's cfm rating at 90 psi, this is the best indicator of what a compressor will put out. The blast equiptment will have the minimum cfm requirements listed on them. The thing to remember is that compressors can't be improved or updated if they are to small.

I have a 7 horse single stage compressor and a 5 foot blast cabinet. I can get most all of the smaller parts in there, including hoods fenders and rims. What won't fit are the one piece fender pans and frames.

I usually send the frame, fenders, hood and rims to a local shop and have them blast them to save time. Everything else I can do myself in the cabinet.
 
Hello All
I've got a small tech question.
I have a 1250 hydro, Can the pump exit shaft be used to drive the pump. Can the pump be driven from the other side.

Thanks

Bill Mc
 
GUy who does my blasting has a rotary compressor that puts out 375 cfm at 125 psi., powered by a detroit diesel.

He has a bunch of big pots.
 

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