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Archive through November 02, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum

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Thanks Travis for the confirmation. Well, that part of the steering is done, soo much better than it was. On to the next project.
Anyone know of way to tighten up the front axel pivot? The bore is worn.
John
 
Jim "K",
Digger's right, get 'em when you see 'em! Right Charlie? SOB anyhow!
 
John, are you sure it's the bore? Usually it's the pin that wears. If you've got a 109 (with the flat oil pan) you can stick a bolt and nut off a newer CC in there and tighten it back up. Otherwise I'd say to but a new pin.
 
Hello all. Haven't written for a while but... I finally found a block (k301"A") after I finally found out what that means. It'll be together soon plowing snow (I have a 127 "dynaplow" with a hydrolic front blade). My question is - Last winter whe it got below 10 degrees or so the hydro would take forever to get moving. I had to push it and jog it around to get it to go. Am I low on fuel or due for a rebuild. It has never leaked since I've owned it. I will head up to the FAQs to see if there is something that will tell me where to check the level. I'll send in pics of my two rigs when they are both goin'. Thanks.
 
Digger>

Would that steering break down also be the one for a 102?
I am working on one for the local chief of police and would like to call in(local cub dealer) with the correct part numbers if possable.
 
John R.-What is a "dynaplow"? Hydrostats can be slow to respond in extremely cold temps,it's a good idea to change the fluid and filter this year as yours may be thick and goopy.
 
You Cubbers won't believe this one! Today I was GIVEN a IH Cub Cadet 128 with mower deck, 3 PT hitch, lights and lift assist. It runs but the gear shift lever has a ton a "play" and does not change the gears. Any suggestions about the gear shift?
 
LOL - Hey Tom, Don't I know it! I traded an old Farmall H for a Cadet 100. Best trade I've made in a long time! The former owner is a mechanic at the school I work at and he used it to win tractor pulls! What a bute. Anyhow I will try the fluid and filter change. Forgot about that. I posted some pics of the Dyna-plow earlier. I will see if I can dig them up. Came to find out the New Holland took some cubbie and used them to pull a vibratory plow for laying lines and pipes. The plow proved TOO vibratory and nearly shook it apart. Nice though to have some hydrolics on the front for the blade though.
 
I just finished the super steer upgrade on my original and it was well worth the effort. I'm planning on doing this on my 127, but I was wondering if anyone has a source for the thinner nylon lock nut like the one in the FAQ. All I have been able to find are lock nuts that are too thick (i.e. too much extra tread past the nylon part). I tried grinding one down, which didn't go well, the nylon smells interesting when it melts
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. I wound up using the original nut and a star washer on the last one, but I have my doubts it will stay tight over the long term. Thanks -Bri
 
Gene P.
Pull the shifter/plate off and I think you will find your problem real quick.

(Message edited by cproctor on November 03, 2004)
 
Bob,

The angled mule drive sheaves don't seem to affect tiller performance, but I prefer the straight style. My own tiller mule drive has cast iron sheaves on a 38/42/48 wide frame mule drive (straight) with a weight bracket.
 
Big Thanks to Jim D. for his starter tips!!!!! I worked on the 782's starter tonight and was able to get rid of the "spin...no starts" with about 20 min. work. Now all you have to do is touch the key and it fires right up....thanks again Jim!!!!!!

782 is also wearing the "correct" rubber for Mr. Plow's tastes....10.50 Tru Powers on the rear (couldn't have soft trac's on it now could I???)

I have to admit, the more I play with that pretty red tractor, the more I smile!!!!
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it wont let me post the pictures of them tires for you guys

(Message edited by kanderson on November 04, 2004)
 

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