Has anyone had a problem with the hydraulic lift cylinder moving very slow on a ported hydro? My second 782 that I bought last year takes three times longer to raise the mower deck than either my original 782 or 149. There is also some chatter in the line when raising or lowering the lift. I've changed the hydro filter and put fresh Hytran in. I put a pressure gauge on to check the charge pump pressure and measured ~50 psi which is low. I changed the charge pump relief valve spring and the pressure increased to ~80+ psi which is within recommended range but the cylinder still moves slow. The pressure also goes down about 5 psi at higher RPM's. The hydro pump works ok but I did have one instance last week where it seemed the auto dump valve was stuck open and it wouldn't move forward. I thought perhaps that was due to the low charge pump pressure. It seems the charge pump is not putting out the necessary flow volume now. Is my charge pump going bad? The service manual mentions that if the charge pump is installed upside down that low pressure will result but I now have 80 psi so I'm not sure if that is my problem. It doesn't appear that the PO ever messed with the charge pump. Any one have an idea what may be wrong?
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Archive through May 31, 2006
- Thread starter digger
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum:
I just installed the valves in my k341 and noticed that the lower keeper on the intake side was different then the exhaust side.
Since my CC service manual doesn't say much about it I consulted the downloadable manual from Kohler and according to them I'm missing a bunch of stuff...
All I have is a rotor on each side and two different spring keepers on each side (none on top). This is what I pulled out, am I'm missing pieces?
Since my CC service manual doesn't say much about it I consulted the downloadable manual from Kohler and according to them I'm missing a bunch of stuff...
All I have is a rotor on each side and two different spring keepers on each side (none on top). This is what I pulled out, am I'm missing pieces?
Matt-
You've got all the parts, just in the wrong order. The small stamped metal cup goes around the valve guide, against the casting, then the spring, then the rotators, then the keepers. You've got the springs against the casting, then the stampings, then the rotators, then the keepers.
Hope that helps.
You've got all the parts, just in the wrong order. The small stamped metal cup goes around the valve guide, against the casting, then the spring, then the rotators, then the keepers. You've got the springs against the casting, then the stampings, then the rotators, then the keepers.
Hope that helps.
Wyatt:
Thank you!
This is they way I pulled them out when it tore it down though. Not only that but the exhaust valve and intake valves where reversed.
Who ever was in this engine before be did one heck of a hack job.
Thank you!
This is they way I pulled them out when it tore it down though. Not only that but the exhaust valve and intake valves where reversed.
Who ever was in this engine before be did one heck of a hack job.
dgallagher
Well-known member
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- Feb 12, 2000
- Messages
- 179
- displayname
- David Gallagher
I was helping a friend get his 149 started today, and found out the gas had gone bad. We drained the tank and put in new, and it fired right up. Another tractor he has is a diesel. Neither of us knew whether diesel fuel goes bad like gas. Do any of you know?
David G: Yes it does. Its not exactly the same, but bad it gets. There is a bacteria that will grow in diesel fuel which will cause it to gel. Once it gels, you ain't gonna go anywhere...
My 782D had the problem in the early spring. Had to remove the tank, drain all the old diesel, clean up the screen filter (gel clogged) and refill with new diesel with anti-gel additive in it. It now runs OK...
Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
(Message edited by mbounds on June 04, 2006)
My 782D had the problem in the early spring. Had to remove the tank, drain all the old diesel, clean up the screen filter (gel clogged) and refill with new diesel with anti-gel additive in it. It now runs OK...
Myron B
CCSupplyRoom
(Message edited by mbounds on June 04, 2006)
I decided to check the front wheel bearings on the loader. I lowered the bucket to raise the tires and gave the wheels a little wiggle. I decided to replace the bearings because the left front was loose. Take a look at the bearing race. That black line is a crack.
The NAPA guy originally wanted me to use bearings that looked even more worthless than the ones I was using. I insisted on Heavy Duty. After some searching he found Heavy Duty bearings.
If these don't last I might try four per wheel, or maybe a spindle mod project this winter.
The NAPA guy originally wanted me to use bearings that looked even more worthless than the ones I was using. I insisted on Heavy Duty. After some searching he found Heavy Duty bearings.
If these don't last I might try four per wheel, or maybe a spindle mod project this winter.
Howard--
My father pondered the same question about a Honda Repower in his own 782 last year. That is, until he was talking with one of the mechanics at his local cub repair place. The mechanic said he had done that swap, and the Honda ran well, but did not have the 'balls' that the koher did (less torque, really) Sooo... Dad ended up going this route:
Kohler Command 23HP
My father pondered the same question about a Honda Repower in his own 782 last year. That is, until he was talking with one of the mechanics at his local cub repair place. The mechanic said he had done that swap, and the Honda ran well, but did not have the 'balls' that the koher did (less torque, really) Sooo... Dad ended up going this route:
Kohler Command 23HP
stanner
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- Oct 2, 2002
- Messages
- 1,349
- displayname
- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Terry
I've used hose new bearings that you have pictured, and although better than the cheapie, not as good as OEM. they only lasted a full season, and they get dirt inside them. I am running JD style sealed bearings right now. (using jd's because the JD dealer is 5 mi away and open late on saturday, and when your tractor is in a field broke, ya gotta comprimise...) HTH
I've used hose new bearings that you have pictured, and although better than the cheapie, not as good as OEM. they only lasted a full season, and they get dirt inside them. I am running JD style sealed bearings right now. (using jd's because the JD dealer is 5 mi away and open late on saturday, and when your tractor is in a field broke, ya gotta comprimise...) HTH
fbainbridge
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- displayname
- Fred Bainbridge
Thanks for the weight info charlie / Fred
CHARLIE - I think it was on the RPM site a couple months ago someone posted a picture of a nicely redone FARMALL H made into a really BIG grill..... Seems like a waste of a fine machine but I bet the burgers & brat's tasted good!
rbedell
Well-known member
Ok Guys:
Was working on my 1450 this weekend and ran accross a Air Filter dilemma.
I looked up in my TC-157 Manual, the Part Number for the Air Filter, that being: 759-3547. I obtained one only to find that it is too small in height. Mine is about 2-1/2" while the one I got is 1-3/4" tall.
Digging into more manuals and doing some Web Surfing, I came up with this:
The above chart is Part Numbers from the K-321 Kohler Manual.
Apparently, I have filter 47-083-03, yet neither the TC-157 nor the Kohler K-321 Parts Manual state so for my Spec Number.
So, either the manuals are wrong or the Previous Owner made some air cleaner modification. I can't say for sure, but the air cleaner system "looks" original.
Can someone shed some input on this situation?
Thanks,
Was working on my 1450 this weekend and ran accross a Air Filter dilemma.
I looked up in my TC-157 Manual, the Part Number for the Air Filter, that being: 759-3547. I obtained one only to find that it is too small in height. Mine is about 2-1/2" while the one I got is 1-3/4" tall.
Digging into more manuals and doing some Web Surfing, I came up with this:
The above chart is Part Numbers from the K-321 Kohler Manual.
Apparently, I have filter 47-083-03, yet neither the TC-157 nor the Kohler K-321 Parts Manual state so for my Spec Number.
So, either the manuals are wrong or the Previous Owner made some air cleaner modification. I can't say for sure, but the air cleaner system "looks" original.
Can someone shed some input on this situation?
Thanks,
John G. & Roland,
I think you will find that when guys take the side panels off they install the taller filter, which BTW will fit inside the stock assembly with no problem. But the housing sometimes rubs the side panels.
All my QL's have the taller filter and it works just fine.
I think you will find that when guys take the side panels off they install the taller filter, which BTW will fit inside the stock assembly with no problem. But the housing sometimes rubs the side panels.
All my QL's have the taller filter and it works just fine.
Terry B,
Just curious as to why you would want to use a non greasable bearing when you can buy HD greasable bearings for the the same or less money.
Just curious as to why you would want to use a non greasable bearing when you can buy HD greasable bearings for the the same or less money.
jhillegass
Well-known member
Hi guys, I need some advise.
I have a trusty K301 engine in a 129. This spring it has begun having a slight miss during the first 5 minutes or so when it runs under full speed/load. It's a mowing tractor.
Once it runs for 5 to 8 minutes, it clears up and runs fine for the rest of the mowing-about 1/2 acre, an hour or more. The engine has good power and it didn't have the miss when I low rpm tilled the garden this spring.
It has a new air filter, new gas with a little MMO (probably have run 20 gallons of gas through it since April) and had a carb rebuild in 2004. I've check the choke plate position-its fine. The wiring looks good. I'm kind of stumped.
Do you have any suggestions? TIA, Jerry
(Message edited by jhillegass on June 05, 2006)
I have a trusty K301 engine in a 129. This spring it has begun having a slight miss during the first 5 minutes or so when it runs under full speed/load. It's a mowing tractor.
Once it runs for 5 to 8 minutes, it clears up and runs fine for the rest of the mowing-about 1/2 acre, an hour or more. The engine has good power and it didn't have the miss when I low rpm tilled the garden this spring.
It has a new air filter, new gas with a little MMO (probably have run 20 gallons of gas through it since April) and had a carb rebuild in 2004. I've check the choke plate position-its fine. The wiring looks good. I'm kind of stumped.
Do you have any suggestions? TIA, Jerry
(Message edited by jhillegass on June 05, 2006)
rbedell
Well-known member
John G & Charlie:
Thanks for the replies.
Well, I think the mystery is solved. Got an email from a friend and it appears that <font color="119911">J*** D****</font> uses the taller Air Cleaner Assembly, like the one I got. Apparently, the previous owner(s) made a switch at one time and installed this air cleaner. My Motor Spec number indicates, my K321 was built for IH, yet a JD air cleaner surfaces on it.
Big decision, run with the taller air cleaner or look for a correct one.
Thanks for the replies.
Well, I think the mystery is solved. Got an email from a friend and it appears that <font color="119911">J*** D****</font> uses the taller Air Cleaner Assembly, like the one I got. Apparently, the previous owner(s) made a switch at one time and installed this air cleaner. My Motor Spec number indicates, my K321 was built for IH, yet a JD air cleaner surfaces on it.
Big decision, run with the taller air cleaner or look for a correct one.
Charlie- That was quite a deal you got an the LP and accessories. I wonder how many hours that 147 has on it? I have heard that some LP engines have much greater longevity due to the cleaner combustion and the cylinder walls having never been washed down with gasoline. Have fun...
