Archive through May 27, 2010

[kweaver]

Gary - I'm old and can't see "micro pics"

In yesterday's pic IF you hadn't rotated the shaft it seems that they had the 2 couplers lined up hole for hole with bolts bolting them together with the flex dics in between. The couplers rotate 90 degrees to eachother. There should be 4 bolt holes in the flex disc. One coupler bolts to the disc , rotate 90* and bolt the other coupler in the last 2 flex bolt holes.

To remove the engine bolts , the two rear ones you can see under the frame. The 2 front bolts are up above the front axle. It will need to be jacked up so that you can push the axle down on one side to get to the bolt with a wrench. Then push down the other side to get the second bolt.

 

[kweaver]

Gary - My bad , I went back to May 26, 2010 - 01:32 pm: and that pic shows the pump coupler mounted to the flex.

 

[gsmyth]

1450 Bigger picture

Maybe this will help.

 

[dtanner]

Gary Smyth
Do I see in the picture you posted the bolts going thought both of these.

These should NOT share the same bolt.The drive coupler on the hydro should be bolted to the rag joints and the drive coupler from the drive shaft should be bolted to the rag joints in the remaining two holes. I hope this helps.

 

[pbell]

Tristan
If the little boy came with the tractor, you should have at least paid the man his asking price, even though in a few years when he is in his teen's, the thought of selling the boy at a discounted price might cross your mind.........

. It looks like he has laid claim to the tractor so you probably need to find yourself another "parts tractor"

 

[jdiederichs]

Ken, The crankshaft pto side was offered in a variety of sizes, a common practice even on today's Command engines.

The 1 1/8" was a common size used by many OEM's while the 1" was common for Deere as well as pre-electric clutch Cub Cadet tractors. Even with the same diamter, the length was the other variable. if you get a look at a Kohler crankshaft manual you'll see about 15-20 different crankshafts offered for the K series.

Matt, not a Magnum crankshaft, they used a retaining bolt while the K-series used the flywheel retaining nut. Btw, Magnum crankshafts are desirable as they are forged, while the K-series are cast, just an FYI if building a powerhouse K series.

Cam specs were identical Ken, sorry. The only time this isn't true was the old K 361 (OHV version of a K 341). That was an 18HP model and used a distinct camshaft that fits the smaller engines also such as the K 301,341 etc. Same lift but longer duration, lots of "stock class" pullers like these.

Jeff, while the engine is open, be sure to have the shop check endplay of camshaft also, too much sound just like rod knock, piston slap.

 

[kweaver]

Ratz ! I guess it's time to take the cam out of the 301 and put it on the bench grinder ...

 

[dfrisk]

KEN - Be sure to dress the grind stone before working on your cam.

JIM Dieterichs - Dad dropped a Magnum 12 into his 129 years ago. He bought the engine from an engine wholesale outlet. Of course the crankshaft was 1-1/8" dia and I think a bit too long. He really hated to pull the crank from a brand new engine but had a local machine shop grind, face, and remachine the keyway for the S/G pulley & PTO.

Didn't the Magnums still have the pad machined on the block for the S/G mounting bracket? I ran that 129 a couple times and I'm almost positive it had the S/G installed. It got sold at Dad's last auction 4 yrs ago, really nice tight original tractor, the grill insert wasn't even melted out of it. Tractor, 42" mower & tiller.

 

[mlamar]

Tristan
It's always a good day when someone posts a picture of a kid on a Cub. It's even better when the kid leaves his green toy (in the background) for a real classic. You got him headed in the right direction. Looks like a nice tractor.

 

[kmcconaughey]

My K301, that David Kirk rebuilt for me, has a crank from a K321 and a cam reground to K361 specs, aka "Cheater Spec cam".

Don T., I thought of you last night when the right rear tire on my #2 125 went flat while I was mowing.

Oh well, thankfully I have spare parts tractors, a few minutes with a socket wrench and I was back to mowing.

Jim D., the tire that went flat on me last night was one that I bought from you back in April of 2000. That was back before I had any spare parts tractors. Over 10 years ago! Wow how time flies.

 

[kweaver]

Dennis - I don't know what you use up north but down here we use MANLY grinding wheels ... NO DRESSES on our wheels !

 

[kide]

While I had the 129 split for the cork gasket replacement, I figured I'd pull the steering gearbox and freshen that up too. I took a few pics of things..

I was surprised at the "divots" in the worm.. This box was loaded with fresh grease. I'm surmising the worm either had just case hardening or had soft spots in the surface....When I adjusted the follower pin after reassembly, I had to set it a touch sloppy or you could feel the notches. The box is still 100% better..

The follower pin had been turned once, you can see the two sets of flats worn in it.

Another view of the pin.... It took quite a while on the drill press with a die grinder mounted in the vise to get the pin redressed...

I followed the great FAQ on rebuilding the box..the side plate was square and flat, but the seal it slides on was iffy..

Since I wanted to get the box back together, I cheated on the seal, using a piece of weather stripping in place of the cork. CCS and other vendors sell new seals that probably will do a better job.(Sorry Charlie, I couldna' wait)..

 

[kide]

Pulling a "red" (OT make) Delco S/G apart this morning for the front plate and front bearing. I can't remember .....is the front (pulley end) bearing pressed on the armature?? Anybody got tricks for getting it off w/o ruining the plate and bearing??

 

[wshytle]

Gentlemen-

My 124 blows smoke but not too bad. I have to add oil after every other mowing and keep a close eye on it. I was told years ago by a mechanic friend to run 20w50 oil in an old truck because of the way it used oil. Is there anything wrong with running 20w50 in the 124 for the same reason?

Another issue: yesterday I was swapping some rear tires around and noticed quite a bit of endplay in both rear axles of the 1250. Do I need to check and add shims or is this acceptable for hydros?

Thanks to any and all....Wayne

 

[kweaver]

Wayne - Tar wouldn't even fix worn rings. You're going to have to rebuild it sooner or later , sooner being best.
The 20/50 would be thicker for sure but it'll still get past the rings when it's hot and flowing.

Some food for thought when buying old engines/cubs ...
Around here I've heard of sawdust being put into the oil to quieten a rod knock so cars could be traded in.


Kid_e - You get that sucker off yet ?

 

[kide]

KentucK:
Front plate's off, gotta come up with a bearing puller....I'd forgotten how these went together, probably last Delco I had the front plate off from was on my '65 Impala (IIRC, but even that may have been an alternator???)

 

[kweaver]

No GEN then Ken

 

[bproctor]

I am restoring a model 71. Rebuilding the K161 (Spec# 28999J) engine now. I ordered a new rod and several other parts and things were going well until I got the new rod. It is longer than my old rod. I have looked at late 60's parts manuals and current manuals they give the same part number (B-230039-S). ANY suggestions?

 

[digger]

Oh Crap!
Now there's 2 of us on here.

Welcome Bob P.

 

[mbounds]

I received the following photo's from John Sergeant of Birmingham, England. He had found a Cub Cadet Original model abandoned in a hedge row. He still needs a Pull Start for the pull-start K-161 in this tractor to complete his restoration. Help anyone?? Here's the before and after photos:

Comment to: JOHN SERGEANT <[email protected]>

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom